lehman live edge slab
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Haven’t gotten a chance to use any yet but will this weekend, need to make a chain up for my 36” bar to take a big white pine down. I’ll try as is off the roll at factory raker hight and see how it does.
I'm hoping you make a full scip version of it any chance you do?Hey, it cuts!
In pine it's going to be fast cutting at least with the doug fir we have here it is fast cutting.Haven’t gotten a chance to use any yet but will this weekend, need to make a chain up for my 36” bar to take a big white pine down. I’ll try as is off the roll at factory raker hight and see how it does.
We have some skip, sureI'm hoping you make a full scip version of it any chance you do?
Going to need some in 24" & 28" .050 3/8 I'll have to wait until after next month so far I can't complain about the chain and bar that I got from you there doing very well for me.We have some skip, sure
I was asking the same question 4?5?or 6 yrs ago and a member on this or the other site said he just re-used the punched out preset and tie strap from breaking the chain. I can't remember for sure but think it was Willard. He said he never had an issue and only used new ones on his racing saws. He advised me to partially punch the first rivet, then do the second one and finish the first rivet to avoid warping/tweaking the preset or tie strap. Be VERY precise to center the punch on the rivet to get the best results and when you are done spinning the link make sure you can't catch a fingernail under the edge of the rivet edge.I checked on the site for tie straps, but they didn't come up.
Can anyone who has bought a roll tell me what they are using for tie straps?
I’ve done it with .404 but it’s a little sketch to me on 3/8. If I absolutely couldn’t find any presets I’d punch out 4-5 links and pick the best.I was asking the same question 4?5?or 6 yrs ago and a member on this or the other site said he just re-used the punched out preset and tie strap from breaking the chain. I can't remember for sure but think it was Willard. He said he never had an issue and only used new ones on his racing saws. He advised me to partially punch the first rivet, then do the second one and finish the first rivet to avoid warping/tweaking the preset or tie strap. Be VERY precise to center the punch on the rivet to get the best results and when you are done spinning the link make sure you can't catch a fingernail under the edge of the rivet edge.
I have done this on many brands and various kinds of chains without issues but "DISCLAIMER" the chain MFGRS state to NOT re-use preset s
I bought some of the Husky 84 DL .063 clearance and made some 92 dl worked great but the .050 a few yrs later seemed to have less material left in the punched rivet. They did work but raised some concerns.
I have done this with NK (.043) .375 LP (picco) many times no issues so far except i have to clean my readers real good.I’ve done it with .404 but it’s a little sketch to me on 3/8. If I absolutely couldn’t find any presets I’d punch out 4-5 links and pick the best.
I do not mismatch or use drivers/tie straps/links from different than original brand/gauge to repairer a loop. Reusing a link is okay if condition allowsI personally will find the new proper links to fix or make a chain or won’t do it. I don’t want a chain coming apart on anyone.
Yep something about a chain breaking in half and having it come at you full speed is not a good feeling my uncle was working at Preston Mill in WA state they were the only mill set up to handle old growth timber in the mid 1980s he was running a 090 Stihl with the longest bar they had and saw kicked back and chain broke and got him dang near in the crotch chaps didn't work that day nicked main artery just barely but he spent a long time in the hospital all because of a bad chain and just plane unsafe conditions.I do not mismatch or use drivers/tie straps/links from different than original brand/gauge to repairer a loop. Reusing a link is okay if condition allows
No issues with minor changes; like using a few links of full chisel on a semi chisel(or vise versa) same brand and gauge to splice a few links of a loop because of missing teeth or damage. Replacing 4 or 5 drive links on a fairly new loop, I'm good. Have done and will do for economy.
Mixing brands or gauges I am not comfortable with. Chains breaking are a concern, a bit scary. Just me
You can just order from the website. It shows stock availability and sizes.Looking to order some chains seen this thread sent a direct message. If in stock then I will gladly give them a go. Put them into service and see how they hold up.
You use it when it’s appropriate every situation has different needs. With that said I’m not a production logger but I am an arborist. I can’t recall ever NEEDING to use that method. But us arborists go at stuff differently because anyone that calls themselves an arborist should be able to just walk on up any tree no different then they walk up stairs. So we can always reduce foliage if needed so we can drop large stems in tight spots or we just peace out the entire tree.By the way went to cut that tree down and one of the guys there asked if I was going to use the tongue and groove cut to fell it. I said wasn’t planning on it and that he watched to much YouTube. This for me thinking does any legitimate logger or tree guy actually use this to fell trees or is it truly a YouTube sensation.
This tree was so large it would have been a pain I think trying to bore cut through at the right angle so it was somewhat pie shaped and didn’t hang up. Also if the center was somewhat rotten then you don’t really have a hinge anymore ect. Anyway just used a standard felling notch and backed it up with a couple wedges and left extra hinge on the far side since it leaned slightly towards me and the lake at the same time, was actually touching the eve of his neighbors sauna and I needed to avoid his little dock pad on the edge of lake. In the end it fell perfectly not damaging anything. When I cut the stump off close to the ground I had 2 maybe 3” of my 36” bar sticking out the other side.
I think a lot of guys use excessive nonsense cuts that will end up getting themselves hurt or killed. Stick with what you know works. If you’re not a professional (I’m not) keep it simple or don’t do it. That fancy *s-word will get you in troubleBy the way went to cut that tree down and one of the guys there asked if I was going to use the tongue and groove cut to fell it. I said wasn’t planning on it and that he watched to much YouTube. This got me thinking does any legitimate logger or tree guy actually use this to fell trees or is it truly a YouTube sensation.
This tree was so large it would have been a pain I think trying to bore cut through at the right angle so it was somewhat pie shaped and didn’t hang up. Also if the center was somewhat rotten then you don’t really have a hinge anymore ect. Anyway just used a standard felling notch and backed it up with a couple wedges and left extra hinge on the far side since it leaned slightly towards me and the lake at the same time, was actually touching the eve of his neighbors sauna and I needed to avoid his little dock pad on the edge of lake. In the end it fell perfectly not damaging anything. When I cut the stump off close to the ground I had 2 maybe 3” of my 36” bar sticking out the other side.