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Duke's saw chain

Loony661

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I have found it to hold its edge longer than Oregon LGX (I know its obsolete, but it is what I still have around).
That’s a good sign, since the older Oregon chains held an edge better than the current offerings. The teeth are soft, and I’m forced to put an edge back on every 2 trees felled and limbed. With Stihl chain I can go more than twice as long without filing - but at $630 per 100’ roll, it’s pricey.

If Duke’s holds an edge longer than Oregon, I’ll buy.
 

MG porting

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They made it safe and sound very nice chain and bar going to put the woop ass on them tomorrow saw turned up 13,700 that's where she's happy going to be bucking alder and maple and a 100' fir I like how the chairs are as I see them so if I find anything that I don't like I'll say so but just how they look I'm sure they'll be the best chains I've had in a while can't stand Stihl chains they suck compared to Oregon chains so hopefully Duke's chain will be my favorite after tomorrow.😎IMG_20250110_143207.jpg
 

MG porting

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Be curious how it files. Haven’t got that far
The chains have a unique grind to them that's for sure but should file just fine I've taken square ground chains and round files them just fine so I'm sure the Duke's should be easier most of the wood I'll be bucking is fairly clean but the fir hit the ground pretty hard so once I roll it the bottom is going to be a little dirty but should be raining a little bit here so that will help rinse it down a little.
 

Loony661

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Constructive Criticism Ahead - Proceed with Caution:

Following up now after using a (the same) Duke’s chain for 3 days logging hardwoods (White Oak) this past week.

Initial grind was not as sharp, and aggressive, as I would have liked. I tried taking a swipe off the rakers: didn’t change. Looked closer and the edge of the cutters wasn’t actually sharp. I then began round filing. Once tuned up, the chain pulled nicely.

I want to like this chain. Its price is fantastic. So I didn’t give up on it. I kept using it on my felling saw each day.

As stated in my previous post, how long a chain retains its edge is a big deal to me, with my business, in a professional logging setting. So cutter life is the make/break point for me. That being said, I could not cut more than 1 tree without the edge of the chain rolling. Occasionally I could get 2 trees felled and limbed, but by the end I was dogging in to get the cuts finished. Keep in mind, these are clean trees: green, frozen, woods grown trees with no debris in the bark. And the chain was never in the dirt. I tried to get 3 trees with it on the second day, and I couldn’t even plunge cut with it on the 3rd tree to fell. The chain just wouldn’t bite anymore. So 2 trees was the pushed limit in my experiences.

Now, as annoying as it is to file every tree or 2, I can do it well, and quickly, sharpening a 24” chain in just a couple minutes. It only took 2-3 file strokes to get the teeth back to sharp. I use Pferd files.

On the 3rd afternoon, I did end up clipping a rock that I didn’t see, as I was starting a face cut. That ended the chain test for me. I’ll now grind it and put it back in service later. That being said, I was forced to grab my backup saw, which has Stihl 33 RSK chain on it… I then cut 3 trees with that saw, without needing to file, as the chain retained its edge and continued to pull itself through. (I have cut for a half day before filing with Stihl chain in the past)

To get the same amount of work done, I would need 3 rolls of Dukes to 1 roll of Stihl. Here’s my breakdown:
Dukes 3/8 .050 100ft roll: currently $250
Stihl 33RSK 100ft roll: currently $630

Dukes x3 = $750
Stihl x1 = $630

The saying goes, “you get what you pay for”, and that certainly has been my experience here. Stihl is expensive up front, but lasts, at minimum 3 times longer, for me in the woods doing work. That makes it a better value, and saves me money in the long run.

I believe everyone’s experience and needs are different. Different woods types, different seasons, different saw sizes, etc all come into play. I honestly think it’s great that Duke is offering this chain at a great price point compared to others on the market. Its edge retention is comparable to Oregon, and that makes Duke’s a good value in my opinion. Give it a try!
 

MG porting

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Well I can't say the same as Loony661 but I didn't buy the chain in roles so it might be different chain than the 24" pre made I didn't buck up all the wood I wanted to get too today but I did get enough done to say I love the chain and it's still sharp after bucking 40' of alder and 65' of fir even stuck the bar tip in the dirt twice yeah I know but it happens I really would have thought the chain would have taken a few nicks on the cutters after the second time but nope granted no rock's just a little bit of dirt now alder around here is about the second hardest wood next to maple I've got plenty of both on this property plus a tun of fir but so far so good Duke's chain two thumbs up in my opinion. Loony661 not telling you how to file your chain just making a recommendation try changing the angle to 35° on the cutters I know the harder the wood the more angle on the cutters do help some.IMG_20250111_163711.jpgIMG_20250111_163734.jpgIMG_20250111_163505.jpg
 

HumBurner

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Tomorrow I'm hoping to try out one or two of the six Duke's chains I got on some white oak/black oak, mix of recent storm-damage and wood up to 3 years downed, coupled with the FKWS 550xpgII. I'll try to get some photos, but I'll hold off on any write-up until after a sharpening or two.
 

Loony661

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@MG porting I’m assuming you meant to type 25* for more durability?

Yes, I typically sharpen at 25* and occasionally 30* for more bite. I mostly kept the Duke’s chain at 25* top plate angle throughout my testing. The wood I’m harvesting here, is hard.
 

MG porting

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@MG porting I’m assuming you meant to type 25* for more durability?

Yes, I typically sharpen at 25* and occasionally 30* for more bite. I mostly kept the Duke’s chain at 25* top plate angle throughout my testing. The wood I’m harvesting here, is hard.
Yes
 

Squareground3691

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Constructive Criticism Ahead - Proceed with Caution:

Following up now after using a (the same) Duke’s chain for 3 days logging hardwoods (White Oak) this past week.

Initial grind was not as sharp, and aggressive, as I would have liked. I tried taking a swipe off the rakers: didn’t change. Looked closer and the edge of the cutters wasn’t actually sharp. I then began round filing. Once tuned up, the chain pulled nicely.

I want to like this chain. Its price is fantastic. So I didn’t give up on it. I kept using it on my felling saw each day.

As stated in my previous post, how long a chain retains its edge is a big deal to me, with my business, in a professional logging setting. So cutter life is the make/break point for me. That being said, I could not cut more than 1 tree without the edge of the chain rolling. Occasionally I could get 2 trees felled and limbed, but by the end I was dogging in to get the cuts finished. Keep in mind, these are clean trees: green, frozen, woods grown trees with no debris in the bark. And the chain was never in the dirt. I tried to get 3 trees with it on the second day, and I couldn’t even plunge cut with it on the 3rd tree to fell. The chain just wouldn’t bite anymore. So 2 trees was the pushed limit in my experiences.

Now, as annoying as it is to file every tree or 2, I can do it well, and quickly, sharpening a 24” chain in just a couple minutes. It only took 2-3 file strokes to get the teeth back to sharp. I use Pferd files.

On the 3rd afternoon, I did end up clipping a rock that I didn’t see, as I was starting a face cut. That ended the chain test for me. I’ll now grind it and put it back in service later. That being said, I was forced to grab my backup saw, which has Stihl 33 RSK chain on it… I then cut 3 trees with that saw, without needing to file, as the chain retained its edge and continued to pull itself through. (I have cut for a half day before filing with Stihl chain in the past)

To get the same amount of work done, I would need 3 rolls of Dukes to 1 roll of Stihl. Here’s my breakdown:
Dukes 3/8 .050 100ft roll: currently $250
Stihl 33RSK 100ft roll: currently $630

Dukes x3 = $750
Stihl x1 = $630

The saying goes, “you get what you pay for”, and that certainly has been my experience here. Stihl is expensive up front, but lasts, at minimum 3 times longer, for me in the woods doing work. That makes it a better value, and saves me money in the long run.

I believe everyone’s experience and needs are different. Different woods types, different seasons, different saw sizes, etc all come into play. I honestly think it’s great that Duke is offering this chain at a great price point compared to others on the market. Its edge retention is comparable to Oregon, and that makes Duke’s a good value in my opinion. Give it a try!
I got a 100’ roll of 36RSK from the land down under a few months ago for , 485.00 shipped , sure do like that stuff, got a couple 25’ rolls of the Dukes chain to and good quality stuff for the price,
 
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