Dogging in vs self feeding - Tooth length too! The truth of it.

[Skiptooth Fred]

I switched to 25° and never turned back.
What a revelation in cutter endurance with little to no loss of cutting speed.
Talking 3/8" in Turkey Oak/hardwood


I have a couple short loops of that stuff!

Yeah, it's a power hog and slow.

25max

What hardwoods have to cut? Something is wrong if ya think Willow is harder than our hard hardwoods. Even our Cypress Pine is twice as hard as Willow and Willow is also weak and brittle.

no its not a hardness factor as in tallowood, bluegums, blackbutt, ironbark, mahogany, turpentine, oak etc. When they poison the crack willow here it completely changes the structure of the timber, it becomes like a rather almost rubbery wood, its really sucks the power out of a saw, if rakers are a bit low like i run in hardwood it bites real hard and if you dont have the grunt then you cant run them like that, i dont like chains not run this way, i dont have time when falling them to be waiting around for a saw that has to be held back when theres hundreds to go down in a day. This timber is always covered in fine grit and sand from floods in the thick bark too. Plenty of faults, defects and dangerous fractures, a happy saw in the hand plays a major part at the end of a day. It also is hard to describe but its somewhat feathery/fluffy in that it seems to always stay in contact with the chains side plates and bar, not unlike being in that thick bark of a hardwood all the time, which results in a hotter running bar and chain, hardwood does not do this. iso150 bar oil is useless in these conditions you need 220iso. Been on saws pro for close on forty years and no hardwood i have ever cut is as ‘hard on the saw, bars or chain’ as this flood level poisoned stuff, am not referring to timber hardness. Normally willow is like cutting something that dont exist! The 592 and 36” duralite excels in this hard environment far beyond my 660magnum, i wont it use unless a last resort, always fight with it under these circumstances. It has nothing to do with timber density and hardwood as you and I would know it. Its all about saw power and ergonomics. Note, its a feral noxious willow variety we have here and its the poison that creates an issue then down the track. Understand fully where you are coming from
Get amongst it with good gear and a sharp skip

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Does anyone know the BTU rating for AU termites?

asking for a friend

Ya can’t hold them back in pine! Fast food for white-ants!

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Does anyone know the BTU rating for AU termites?

asking for a friend

And i’m pretty sure they run tungsten

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I sold that 660, got a good price for it and the new owner is happy. I expected it to have a bit more torque and power, though no doubt if I was better at sharpening chains and I had better technique with using the saw, it would cut quicker. Don’t get me wrong, it wasn’t slow, but with a 25” bar there is not much spare power there, at least in the dry timber I was cutting. Edit to add: Retrospectively thinking, I was expecting to be able to lean on the saw a lot and it keep pulling, which wasn’t the case, even with 3/8 semi, hence why I felt it was a bit meh… however, get a pinch and you quickly realise how much power it does have lol.

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

I sold that 660, got a good price for it and the new owner is happy. I expected it to have a bit more torque and power, though no doubt if I was better at sharpening chains and I had better technique with using the saw, it would cut quicker. Don’t get me wrong, it wasn’t slow, but with a 25” bar there is not much spare power there, at least in the dry timber I was cutting. Edit to add: Retrospectively thinking, I was expecting to be able to lean on the saw a lot and it keep pulling, which wasn’t the case, even with 3/8 semi, hence why I felt it was a bit meh… however, get a pinch and you quickly realise how much power it does have lol.

Understand, thats why mine isn’t used. To me 30cc per 12” of bar is a rule of thumb minimum, my 660 and the 36”… no thanks, give me the 592xp any day!
But whatever the user is happy with is safe

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Understand, thats why mine isn’t used. To me 30cc per 12” of bar is a rule of thumb minimum, my 660 and the 36”… no thanks, give me the 592xp any day!
But whatever the user is happy with is safe

Interesting! A few full time cutters (that I’ve spoken to)won’t touch Huskies out here, where you seem to prefer it?

Edited to add green text in to make sense.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

I sold that 660, got a good price for it and the new owner is happy. I expected it to have a bit more torque and power, though no doubt if I was better at sharpening chains and I had better technique with using the saw, it would cut quicker. Don’t get me wrong, it wasn’t slow, but with a 25” bar there is not much spare power there, at least in the dry timber I was cutting. Edit to add: Retrospectively thinking, I was expecting to be able to lean on the saw a lot and it keep pulling, which wasn’t the case, even with 3/8 semi, hence why I felt it was a bit meh… however, get a pinch and you quickly realise how much power it does have lol.

I sold my 660 as well. No low end torque and a stingy oiler. I had to take my oiler apart and modify it, to pump more oil.

Couldn't imagine how hot that bar got, cutting dry/dense wood in hot weather with a worthless fkn oiler. Not to mention; a saw that likes to bog to zero rpms at the slightest feed pressure.

Some saws will over oil a 36" bar, have filthy-good manual oilers and gobs of low-end grunt, hint hint.......

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Interesting! A few full time cutters (that I’ve spoken to)won’t touch Huskies out here, where you seem to prefer it?

Edited to add green text in to make sense.

Yes i understand this, same here, not sure about there but here was the case that they had never actually used them & aftersales at the time by husky was poor in some places, it all came down to service. I also refer here to the new 592xp the best saw i have picked up i reckon. I spent over twenty years solid on stihls doing danger trees, powerline work, climbing, fires, ripping posts, mill work, and in general all other saw work, there are few i like, 200t, 034super, & 460, my bosses had around eighty saws from the smallest 009 top handle to the biggest(090’s & later 084’s) swore by them with their lives, more of these broke down than any huskys i’ve ever seen. 084 was a nightmare saw, always carried a spare. And both these guys had never once run a husky, but rubbish them, regardless of greater production beside them and with a smaller saw. They wouldn’t even look at them second hand let alone new, just buy another and put it on the account. Yet my personal saw was that 61 o/t husky. On one occasion here at home recently i reluctantly handed my brother (x boss) inlaw my orange top 61… his comment was boy that goes alright nice saw to use what size is it 75cc! I said its 60 and i dont plan on stihl being here cleaning filters refueling and cutting this big 42” sucker up tomorrow! It cut that 42” bluegum with a 24” bar just as quick as the 36” on the 660magnum which included swapping sides. It was video’d to prove it at the time. That saw was bought new in 1994, it cuts wood for hot water and heating 12mths year plus work saw. Never been an issue with it. Never has not started. Goes hard.
Some just wont let go what they think is a good reputation eitherthere’s no loss of pride being honest or stating you dont like them but haven’t used one! Be honest i say.
At the end of the day its whats in your hands you have to be happy with. And yes, the 66 range is probably the most sort after stihl saw in oz imo, 66 (& 084 i climbed with) i hated the most. And i stihl own a 660 as said, yes its mine but its also money in the bank regardless for me but i tell you this they never earn interest nor holiday payeasy to sell, and blokes see the full wrap and go wow! ps No worked saws ever used this end all stock.

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

I sold my 660 as well. No low end torque and a stingy oiler. I had to take my oiler apart and modify it, to pump more oil.

Couldn't imagine how hot that bar got, cutting dry/dense wood in hot weather with a worthless fkn oiler. Not to mention; a saw that likes to bog to zero rpms at the slightest feed pressure.

Some saws will over oil a 36" bar, have filthy-good manual oilers and gobs of low-end grunt, hint hint.......

Yep the oil system is rubbish (oh i was told but we offer a better heavy duty oil system! I said what? You offer! Is this not your number one falling pro saw??? Red flag) You have to get some iso220 bar oil, most sold is iso150 here, its too light and yes it needs more oil but thats a start. Or if you have iso150 and cant get 220, 50/50 with 85/140 gear oil

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Yep the oil system is rubbish (oh i was told but we offer a better heavy duty oil system! I said what? You offer! Is this not your number one falling pro saw??? Red flag) You have to get some iso220 bar oil, most sold is iso150 here, its too light and yes it needs more oil but thats a start. Or if you have iso150 and cant get 220, 50/50 with 85/140 gear oil

Yep, you're right on the money. After your 40 years of cutting, you'd think folks would listen to you and be open-minded about other saw brands. It's foolish, to have your head so far up stihl's *a-hole, that you can't see the light of day. We have em up here in Alaska too.

My 881 magnumless (latest/greatest) was much the same, stingy oiler, no low-end torque, vibey as hel l and an overall steaming pile of sht. It had to get warranty work as well.

Pav ships ported CS 1201's to Australia on occasion. King of the .404 hint hint....

N

SELLING Thread 'NIB/NOS Saws Husky 353, 61, 372 OE, 288 - Stihl ms361, ms381/382, ms660, ms070/720 - Echo cs1201'

Dec 23, 2018

Hi guys im Robin Wood from AS, thought it could help reach guys in here for some outlaw saws.
PM me for more details

• NightRogue
• Replies: 521
• Forum: Whole Chainsaws for Sale/Trade

• 

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Yep the oil system is rubbish (oh i was told but we offer a better heavy duty oil system! I said what? You offer! Is this not your number one falling pro saw??? Red flag) You have to get some iso220 bar oil, most sold is iso150 here, its too light and yes it needs more oil but thats a start. Or if you have iso150 and cant get 220, 50/50 with 85/140 gear oil

I've found that with the 660's oiler, it's crucial to keep the RPMs up, especially in dusty conditions. I used to lean on the saw a bit, which it could handle just fine, but it caused the RPMs to drop. That slight increase in pressure meant I only used about half a tank of oil instead of the usual 3/4 - 4/5. The bar ended up drier than it should have been. Once I eased off the load and let the RPMs rise, I got more oil to the bar and chain, which was needed in the dry, dusty woods.

On a related note, I had the chance to run the 500i alongside my 660. It’s an absolute beast—however it screams at a higher RPM than I’d prefer for longevity and is painfully loud, even with good hearing protection. The anti-vibration system could be better; the loose springs are manageable with a 25" ES light bar, which is about the maximum for Australian timber. Still, it’s a fun to run—light, slim, powerful, and with good torque. However, I’m not sold on the fuel injection system. The injector replacement costs around $600, and the fuel pump is non-serviceable and pricey to replace. Stihl has also locked down the diagnostic software which costs dealers about $2,000 and isn’t available to customers. I'm not convinced the benefits of low-pressure fuel injection are worth the price and inconvenience. I prefer adjustment screws.

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Yep, you're right on the money. After your 40 years of cutting, you'd think folks would listen to you and be open-minded about other saw brands. It's foolish, to have your head so far up stihl's *a-hole, that you can't see the light of day. We have em up here in Alaska too.

My 881 magnumless (latest/greatest) was much the same, stingy oiler, no low-end torque, vibey as hel l and an overall steaming pile of sht. It had to get warranty work as well.

Pav ships ported CS 1201's to Australia on occasion. King of the .404 hint hint....

N

SELLING Thread 'NIB/NOS Saws Husky 353, 61, 372 OE, 288 - Stihl ms361, ms381/382, ms660, ms070/720 - Echo cs1201'

Dec 23, 2018

Hi guys im Robin Wood from AS, thought it could help reach guys in here for some outlaw saws.
PM me for more details

• NightRogue
• Replies: 521
• Forum: Whole Chainsaws for Sale/Trade

• 

To my knowledge from a man whom sorted 084 carby issues here in Oz, which caused pistons to melt, the 088 was pretty much the same saw with that issue fixed… yet my inlaws thought they were getting an even bigger more powerful saw. All i can say is, it didn’t melt pistons, so that was a bonus. The man that found the reason why then explained to me what was the cause, we had three with holes in pistons, yet mine didn’t do it! Why? Because i ran the gutless thing flat all the time. If you backed off a smidge he said they leaned off and melted pistons! Funny, thats what the bro inlaw and the kiwi always did! To those that own one, if you must, feed it good fuel, the best Air Cooled two stroke oil and make sure its getting full throttle and run it there

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

I've found that with the 660's oiler, it's crucial to keep the RPMs up, especially in dusty conditions. I used to lean on the saw a bit, which it could handle just fine, but it caused the RPMs to drop. That slight increase in pressure meant I only used about half a tank of oil instead of the usual 3/4 - 4/5. The bar ended up drier than it should have been. Once I eased off the load and let the RPMs rise, I got more oil to the bar and chain, which was needed in the dry, dusty woods.

On a related note, I had the chance to run the 500i alongside my 660. It’s an absolute beast—however it screams at a higher RPM than I’d prefer for longevity and is painfully loud, even with good hearing protection. The anti-vibration system could be better; the loose springs are manageable with a 25" ES light bar, which is about the maximum for Australian timber. Still, it’s a fun to run—light, slim, powerful, and with good torque. However, I’m not sold on the fuel injection system. The injector replacement costs around $600, and the fuel pump is non-serviceable and pricey to replace. Stihl has also locked down the diagnostic software which costs dealers about $2,000 and isn’t available to customers. I'm not convinced the benefits of low-pressure fuel injection are worth the price and inconvenience. I prefer adjustment screws.

For me I wanted to try one fir no other reason than just that. Then i spoke with a reputable operator who after three failures in a very short time, walked out the workshop and near threw it back on the front desk, back traded to a 460. Happy again he said! They can keep that rubbish. Theres always two sides, but we just dont really know about computer life expectancy under such heat dust no doubt moisture and vibration Old school saws go hard too and i dunno are hard to beat.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

I bet yall melt/strip out plastic oiler gears like candy with your heat, inboard clutches and fine wood dust.

Anyhow, vintage engine repairs,
Hopefully you'll diversify your cutting experience to something other than the typical stihls.

A husq 395 running .404 won't need to be babied through the cut with a tiny bar, has an outboard clutch and a filthy-good oiler.....

Same dude, pav, can set up ported 395 fer pulling. 404 in the densest rainforest hardwoods. I would think his recipes would work very well for "down under" stihl's azshole.

Look at the dust coming off that knarly rainforest stuff pav cuts:

 

[rogue60]

Lots of sooking and complaining going on in here over girly little chainsaws..
Real men run Buzzsaws and you'll never hear em complaining and whining like the purse swinging sooks nowadays lol

 

[Squareground3691]

Lots of sooking and complaining going on in here over girly little chainsaws..
Real men run Buzzsaws and you'll never hear em complaining and whining like the purse swinging sooks nowadays lol

View attachment 429102View attachment 429103View attachment 429104

That’s manly , Lol

 

[rogue60]

That’s manly , Lol

And no spring AV could you imagine the hurts feelings you'd have to call an ambiance lol

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

I bet yall melt/strip out plastic oiler gears like candy with your heat, inboard clutches and fine wood dust.

Anyhow, vintage engine repairs,
Hopefully you'll diversify your cutting experience to something other than the typical stihls.

A husq 395 running .404 won't need to be babied through the cut with a tiny bar, has an outboard clutch and a filthy-good oiler.....

Same dude, pav, can set up ported 395 fer pulling. 404 in the densest rainforest hardwoods. I would think his recipes would work very well for "down under" stihl's azshole.

Look at the dust coming off that knarly rainforest stuff pav cuts:

395’s a damn good bitta gear, i have two, tough reliable, but honestly i prefer the 592, far nicer to carry all day, although as we both know it has big shoes in longevity to live up to my old 61 orange top is a baby 395 to me, goes hard gives no troubles. As for oiling on the 592 side, it oils fineas long as the bars oil hole is not drilled at ninety degrees Oil tank for tank

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Lots of sooking and complaining going on in here over girly little chainsaws..
Real men run Buzzsaws and you'll never hear em complaining and whining like the purse swinging sooks nowadays lol

View attachment 429102View attachment 429103View attachment 429104

Cool pics, cherish them, blow them up and hang em on your wall, not enough of these left being chased around. Miss my mill days, poppy just passed away so the little bush mill, could be close to the last is gone, we didn’t run these obviously on milling logs or any kind of swing saw, we had a canadian to break logs down, bloke up the road had a swing saw, so similar as you know, with a vw engine on it, good bitta kit to see in operation, though he always looked pretty tense operating it

 

[Squish9]

I'm surprised with comments about the 660 oil pump. I rebuild one last year with the high output pump and at max it drains the oil tank well before it runs out of fuel. I run it with a 25" hard nose bar and swap between 3/8 FC and 404 semi depending on what I'm cutting and can't complain about it's performance.

Now the 661 on the other hand, that was a POS. Never again.