WI_Hedgehog
Super OPE Member
- Local time
- 7:12 PM
- User ID
- 27428
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2023
- Messages
- 355
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- Location
- Milwaukee, Wisconsin, U.S.A.
Seems like there's lots of love for .404 chipper.
Only when necessary, it vibrates like crazy and steals horsepower like a fat kid in a candy store.Seems like there's lots of love for .404 chipper.
I switched to 25° and never turned back.Not claiming to be an expert, when filing 3/8" "termite tree chain" I lift the round file up another 10-20% above the top of the cutter (so from around 20% to around 35%, depending) so the cutter face is less hooked and much flatter, and may also reduce the angle from 30° to 25°. It will take 2/3 to twice as long to complete a cut on the first two cuts, though since it doesn't dull quickly in termite trees it will be as fast as standard semi-chisel on the third cut (or thereabouts) and then outpace the semi-chisel. Instead of 5 standard cuts (30" tree, 18" bar, 5 sections cut) I can get 25+ cuts out of the "termite tree chain" and the chain isn't damaged, just dull when it dulls out.
Granted, since then the good folks here suggested I use a hard-nose bar and loose .404 chipper chain with full open oiler setting, and that's "the bomb" for lots of rotty stuff.
I have a couple short loops of that stuff!404 chipper " ol' scoopy scoopy"!View attachment 411680View attachment 411681
Yeah but most are stuck with only two settings soft or hard using a progressive raker gauge.. or even just one setting with some gauges.The thing that makes the most difference seams to be the thing that gets the least attention.
The wee little do dads infront of the cutters.
Why is it that average Jeffrey Leroy can cut half his life and never heard of playing with them. They can make or break a day cutting and yet are still a dark art with Joe homeowner. Angles can be all over the show to a point and can cut fairly well if them little whatsit's are OK ish.
The other extreme is watching a guy lower his with a cordless grinder lol
A long bar in good wood they gotta be pretty close to where ya like em
Doing some tree removals at the workshop for the boss some of my work mates were shocked at a rowdy 272 with a mean chain. They think that is a big saw too
I also run my chains at 25*.I switched to 25° and never turned back.
What a revelation in cutter endurance with little to no loss of cutting speed.
Talking 3/8" in Turkey Oak/hardwood
Yeah but most are stuck with only two settings soft or hard using a progressive raker gauge.. or even just one setting with some gauges.
Yeah same tune rakers for the job at hand based on feedback from saw and chain as you say variables are many.Yeah I tend to use it more as a reset/even em up tool and learn it's needs from there. In gum trees on the 32 the hard setting is OK but in pine or macro the soft is a tad aggressive at that length. Set it at hard then a couple strokes from there n see how it goes. A million variables.
I have considered making some up at different heights
Do you guys have many macrocarpas around?
The yanks know it as monterrey cypress.
And the hard setting in .404 on Stihl is still too aggressive for the powerhead to pull haha. I’m going to modify my .404 progressive gauge so it takes less off the depth gauge and see how it goes!Yeah but most are stuck with only two settings soft or hard using a progressive raker gauge.. or even just one setting with some gauges.
Haha I love the old muscle saws Trying my best to convince Rogue60 to ship me his 090 LOLYou need one of these,View attachment 411867
There’s a killer deal on a 660XS , on here in sale thread,Haha I love the old muscle saws Trying my best to convince Rogue60 to ship me his 090 LOL
interesting! I’ve never heard of a 660 XS, but no doubt it’s in the states?There’s a killer deal on a 660XS , on here in sale thread,
Kevin , builds a great saw ,interesting! I’ve never heard of a 660 XS, but no doubt it’s in the states?
I understand your thoughts on the 660, to me they are a dog, but stihl purists here love them, most have not tried another saw. I spent decades pro on stihl saws, from 090 down to tree rats, my two most disliked saws are the 084 & 660, and yes i stihl own one, but i dont pick it up while ever the 592 is around. The 660 has never impressed me, vibrates, sucks more fuel than my 42 jeep and the air cleaner has to be cleaned every tank, and although i run a full wrap on it it really is not an ergonomic saw to use, anyone with injuries in the business i know agrees. Now with all due respect to those in the U.S and surrounds they seem to love it, but most are not stock saws over there either, something thats rare here, and most the guys you probably are watching are pro’s too, fit as well, years on a saw makes a big difference, to me though if a saw dont perform stock than i am not wasting money on it to go harder. I own all stock saws, mind you don’t bet against me not wanting a ported saw or hotsaw. In our timber they will pull into the wood just the same, but yes its hard, in one case I know for sure, our poisoned willow is harder on a saw than our hardwood believe me, if you ain’t got a saw that regardless if size doesn’t go hard and produce good power you’ll know about & struggle. I will not pick up the ms660mag for these as opposed to my old orange top 1994 model husky 61! Its 592 country & it loves it. I dont know what chain you are running, but imo if its stihl try some carlton or oregon full chisel, i prefer skip fir all i cut green or dry but its up to you and sharpening skills. Take note of the chain you run now, is there sap dragging on the tooth surface?, For eg my 61’ husky does it damn hard on stihl chain, and i have used many loops they were freely available, it just wont rev freely in our timber using it, i’d rather buy what works for me though, its not worth the frustration & no point shortening engine life leaning on dogs when i dont have to, yes, my dogs are rarely used with any pressure. Try some different chains and bring the degrees back at least to twenty five degrees max or less. Do that saw a favour 32:1 keep the filter clean and keep it sharpstay safeThe ms660 with 25” bar, but really that isn’t even that impressive. I can’t really lean on the saw too much still, there is not much spare power there. I want to try an 088 / 880 / 881 with 25” bar and see how it goes, Rogue has an 090 and seeing how fast that thing cuts is where it’s at lol. I only mess around for 3-5 hours each time at the wood lot so not enough to be concerned with the weight of any of these saws. It’s not like I have to lug them through the forest and back
Of course, it would also cut faster if I wasn’t a hack with sharpening too. I try my best but don’t have the experience or knowledge to really do the chain justice.
460 is imo the pick of stihls sawsMy XS 461 pulls 30” of .404 in whatever I lean it on.
Sharpen it each tank, that edge roll is a ways back I like the angle on that third tooth2 hours and 3 tanks of fuel since I posted last when I was sharpening.
Didn't hit any rocks, metal or the ground. This is what happened.
View attachment 408459
What hardwoods have to cut? Something is wrong if ya think Willow is harder than our hard hardwoods. Even our Cypress Pine is twice as hard as Willow and Willow is also weak and brittle.I understand your thoughts on the 660, to me they are a dog, but stihl purists here love them, most have not tried another saw. I spent decades pro on stihl saws, from 090 down to tree rats, my two most disliked saws are the 084 & 660, and yes i stihl own one, but i dont pick it up while ever the 592 is around. The 660 has never impressed me, vibrates, sucks more fuel than my 42 jeep and the air cleaner has to be cleaned every tank, and although i run a full wrap on it it really is not an ergonomic saw to use, anyone with injuries in the business i know agrees. Now with all due respect to those in the U.S and surrounds they seem to love it, but most are not stock saws over there either, something thats rare here, and most the guys you probably are watching are pro’s too, fit as well, years on a saw makes a big difference, to me though if a saw dont perform stock than i am not wasting money on it to go harder. I own all stock saws, mind you don’t bet against me not wanting a ported saw or hotsaw. In our timber they will pull into the wood just the same, but yes its hard, in one case I know for sure, our poisoned willow is harder on a saw than our hardwood believe me, if you ain’t got a saw that regardless if size doesn’t go hard and produce good power you’ll know about & struggle. I will not pick up the ms660mag for these as opposed to my old orange top 1994 model husky 61! Its 592 country & it loves it. I dont know what chain you are running, but imo if its stihl try some carlton or oregon full chisel, i prefer skip fir all i cut green or dry but its up to you and sharpening skills. Take note of the chain you run now, is there sap dragging on the tooth surface?, For eg my 61’ husky does it damn hard on stihl chain, and i have used many loops they were freely available, it just wont rev freely in our timber using it, i’d rather buy what works for me though, its not worth the frustration & no point shortening engine life leaning on dogs when i dont have to, yes, my dogs are rarely used with any pressure. Try some different chains and bring the degrees back at least to twenty five degrees max or less. Do that saw a favour 32:1 keep the filter clean and keep it sharpstay safe