Chainsaw grinder questions, tips, tricks, and pics!!!!

[Woodtroll]

I kinda forget where I posted this before, but my buddy got about half p1ssed off because I wouldn’t cut the muddy logs that blew across his driveway. Well, I got his driveway cleared, but I wouldn’t cut the muddy stuff off to the side.

That's just rude! But I don't blame you.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

I kinda forget where I posted this before, but my buddy got about half p1ssed off because I wouldn’t cut the muddy logs that blew across his driveway. Well, I got his driveway cleared, but I wouldn’t cut the muddy stuff off to the side.

I had a "friend" who kept asking me to cut up a big log he dragged out of his woods through enough mud to almost get his tractor stuck and then he just knocked most of the mud off with a hose. I finally told him I'd do it after he bought the bar and chain. The look on his face when I gave him the chain back after only making it a quarter of the way through the first cut was priceless!

 

[Khntr85]

Our local shop uses on of those franzen grinders and just uses a coarse stens wheel and just use the dressing brick on it once a chain.

How are the chains done on that machine, cut on??

 

[Khntr85]

Say I changed the tilt to 50° and created slightly more hook. What does this mean in use? Faster but less durable?

I like new RS and the 55° seems to match it perfectly.

As Philbert has said before, you can put a new chain, or one you have hand filed on the grinder, then match the wheel to the cutter profile you like…..don’t worry about what the numbers are in the grinder head, just get what you want out of it…

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

How are the chains done on that machine, cut on??

Are you asking how they cut? Better than I can get them on my grinder but I still can get a better chain with a file.

 

[Lawless]

As Philbert has said before, you can put a new chain, or one you have hand filed on the grinder, then match the wheel to the cutter profile you like…..don’t worry about what the numbers are in the grinder head, just get what you want out of it…

That is what I did

 

[EFSM]

Do they clean the chain before sharpening? If so do you know how. Not a big Question just curious as to how much of an issue oil makes for plugging wheel pores. On the sawmill head saw (circle) we cut cottonwood for pallet and used the white wheels lasted longer and CW never left sap on the teeth The neighbor mill cut walnut Oak and Hackberry and used the softer Ruby wheels as they were more sacrificial so they didn't burn and plug. @Philbert has posted that he cleans his as needed then Baggies them with a bit of lube after sharpening. I will find out when I start sharpening with CBN wheels but am curious til the hands on lets me know what I am doing wrong.

Franzen offers a mister/blower kit that fairly effectively self-cleans the chain, not super well, but it prevents burning even when the wheel is getting gunked up.

 

[jacktheripper]

I can’t believe that I haven’t used a grinder for rakers until now. The hours that I’ve wasted… and the worst part is that I already owned the second grinder! But I just never got around to setting it up.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

I can’t believe that I haven’t used a grinder for rakers until now. The hours that I’ve wasted… and the worst part is that I already owned the second grinder! But I just never got around to setting it up.

Have you cut with one of those chains yet? I find rakers on the grinder to be a tricky business and not that bad to just hit them each a stroke with the file.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Have you cut with one of those chains yet? I find rakers on the grinder to be a tricky business and not that bad to just hit them each a stroke with the file.

I hear you about being a little tricky. Takes a very consistent technique or they will be all over the place. I shaped my wheel with a single point diamond dresser to keep the profile close to factory.

 

[jacktheripper]

Have you cut with one of those chains yet? I find rakers on the grinder to be a tricky business and not that bad to just hit them each a stroke with the file.

I haven’t yet. I set the height by first filing a tooth with my progressive raker gauge, and then adjusting the wheel height to that raker.

I was initially skeptical about my ability to be repeatably accurate with the grinding, so I went back and hand checked the rakers with my flat file and gauge. They were all within a swipe or dead on.

I have been liking to use the progressive gauge to file my chains lately, but have found that due to the slanting angle of the filed area, a lot of material needs to be removed from a new chain to begin with using the gauge. Most of the chain that I run is 84dl full comp, so that means 10-15 swipes for 42 rakers, which can take over 20 minutes. Now I can do it in like 3 minutes.

 

[president]

I hear you about being a little tricky. Takes a very consistent technique or they will be all over the place. I shaped my wheel with a single point diamond dresser to keep the profile close to factory.

I do the far side cutters, & flip the chain around
so that the wheel approaches from the low side first
to avoid the chatter .

 

[Lawless]

Still old school the rakers with a file. I like to count strokes

 

[Khntr85]

Are you asking how they cut? Better than I can get them on my grinder but I still can get a better chain with a file.

lol yes that’s what I meant my phone screen is cracked to hell lol

 

[huskihl]

Haven’t filed rakers in 7-8 years.

 

[Lawless]

 

[Woodtroll]

View attachment 480355

I’d bet she can! LOL

 

[hdyk]

As Philbert has said before, you can put a new chain, or one you have hand filed on the grinder, then match the wheel to the cutter profile you like…..don’t worry about what the numbers are in the grinder head, just get what you want out of it…

i do 30-50-0, only 25AP can be hook more than new after grinding. others new are quitely hook.

 

[Lawless]

Is the reason rip chain is around 10° because the finish is better? Or is there a durability or speed reason?

 

[MtnHaul]

Is the reason rip chain is around 10° because the finish is better? Or is there a durability or speed reason?

I've helped a friend who was milling with standard 30 degree chisel chain and the finish was pretty rough compared to rip chain. Just this morning I was talking with the local chainsaw mechanic/chainsaw nerd and we were discussing different ripping chains and he was very fond of semi-chisel ground at 10 degrees--claimed the finish was a bit smoother even than Granberg rip chain.