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Chainsaw grinder questions, tips, tricks, and pics!!!!

Wilhelm

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These seem contradictory?

Don’t grind that main casting, and risk breaking it! You won’t be happy.

Maybe a smaller diameter bolt on the grinder head tilt, to gain a few degrees?

Maybe sloped chain vise rails (inspired by the SquareJig design)?

Philbert
I concur, the honeycombed main casting has insufficient meat to be ground on.

Yes, smaller OD tilt bolt and/or vice mod.

I am very happy with the grinder for full size 3/8" full chisel.
I get 3/8"LP, .325" and semi chisel to cut OK, but they are no speed demons and I feel they'd like more beak/wheel tilt.
 

Khntr85

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I don’t sharpen the general public’s chains anymore and the few small saws I have that have that small pic I chain, I just hand file…it’s a pain in the ass to grind that stuff…
 

president

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I guess it would be good to hear from people whom have tried different recipes and have done their own recipes, and then tried the chain in wood to see how it worke….
Anyone who has ground chains for any amount of time knows you can get a perfect blend of aggressive and sturdy chain, in the wood you cut…the Oregon and stihl numbers are just vanilla numbers…anyone who looks at a brand new stihl chain and tries to match the wheel to the tooth knows instantly the numbers stihl and Oregon give you “ain’t” right just safe!!!!!!!
that vid is enough to convince me to try your angles, thanks
usg owner
 

Wilhelm

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@Wilhelm looking good….
Thank You!
Nothing special really, it just works.

I don’t sharpen the general public’s chains anymore and the few small saws I have that have that small pic I chain, I just hand file…it’s a pain in the ass to grind that stuff…
The 3/8"LP & .325" want a 3.0 mm thin wheel to get a tiny-C profile.
I find hand filing these chains even more tedious than grinding them because of the flexing of the small OD round file.
 

Philbert

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The 3/8"LP & .325" want a 3.0 mm thin wheel to get a tiny-C profile.
I get 3/8"LP, .325" and semi chisel to cut OK, but they are no speed demons and I feel they'd like more beak/wheel tilt.
You can also try profiling a vitrified wheel to have more of a ‘rounded corner’, that would reach up higher under the top plate, than a symmetrical rim.

Access is still limited, of course, by the depth gauge.

Philbert
 

Wilhelm

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I didn’t say it would be ‘easy’!

Philbert
I think the swivel fixing bolt is either M10 or M12.
Turning the bolt down just where it rides in the swivel slot should give a couple degrees.
That would be simple enough to do, will work to both sides and is easily reversible if it doesn't work as intended by modding a different identical bolt.
 

Khntr85

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Rakers may look to low but they are fine I lowered them last sharpen and self fed in hard wood just fine…

I used the diffrent “tilt” settings..so the right cutter I used -10 instead of stihls recommended +15, and same with left cutter…

Why you may ask, well to me the angle of side plate is closer to the out of the box RS, and also I like to just experiment and try to find the best possible cutting chain, that’s all…IMG_5233.jpegIMG_5230.jpeg
 
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