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Chainsaw grinder questions, tips, tricks, and pics!!!!

Philbert

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I know it was a long time ago but was the profile like a regular rounded grinding wheel???
As I recall it was. But the chains I saw were conventional, round ground. I did not see any square ground, etc.

Philbert
 

Wilhelm

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Had to get a stihl RS chain into shape….the full cutter/clean cutter is a new stihl RS from factory (always have new chains to compare to, for a baseline if anything), the smaller chain is the RS I ground with CBN wheel….


Questions/comments/concerns/discusions welcomedView attachment 408285View attachment 408286View attachment 408282View attachment 408283View attachment 408286
Allow the wheel to go a bit deeper, set the rakers as they look untouched.
Other than that it looks like a good grind to me.

P.S.:
A lot of wear on those straps.
Dress Your bar or change out the drive sprocket, or both.
Change the sprocket once You are done with that loop as it is boogered up already anyway.
 

Khntr85

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Ok guys the pics I am about to post are experimental grinds (which every one should do)…
Now stihl says a right hand cutter tooth should be ground at “+15 on tilt or bottom vise slide”….i have never understood why because it just doesn’t match a factory RS chain as good as it could….



The pics start at a bottom “tilt/slide” of -15 rather than the +15 that stihl recommends (which in my opinion is way closer to the factory RS or Oregon full chisel chain)

With each pic I move the bottom slide/or tilt 5-degrees until I get stihls +15 degree recommendation….this is my Oregon practice chain so don’t look at anything but the cutter….i used the stihl USG you can do the same experiments with the Oregon…
 

Khntr85

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Ok this last set is the -15 setting compared to factory RS…
 

Khntr85

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*Start with the profile you want; work backwards to note the grinder settings to get there.

Philbert
Sometimes people have to stray from the routine numbers to find they want/need…..it’s hard to know what someone wants without grinding it, then testing it ya know, that’s why I like to play around sometimes, see what happens…


Have you ever found grind numbers that work for your cutting that are a lot different than the norm, or do you use the standard “stock” numbers
 
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Khntr85

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I guess it would be good to hear from people whom have tried different recipes and have done their own recipes, and then tried the chain in wood to see how it worke….
Anyone who has ground chains for any amount of time knows you can get a perfect blend of aggressive and sturdy chain, in the wood you cut…the Oregon and stihl numbers are just vanilla numbers…anyone who looks at a brand new stihl chain and tries to match the wheel to the tooth knows instantly the numbers stihl and Oregon give you “ain’t” right just safe!!!!!!!
 

Philbert

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I encourage anyone using a grinder to experiment / ‘play’ using scrap chains, to see what machine adjustments do, and what is possible.

I have mostly focused on basic sharpening, and salvaging / restoring abused or damaged chains. I’m comfortable with that.

Race chain guys are always looking for secret, speed advantages. Performance cutters recognize that it’s a combination of the saw, sprocket, bar, chain, sharpening, wood, cutting technique, etc., as well as speed versus durability, etc.

Chain manufacturers give you starting points, because they are selling chains to millions of users, in hundreds of countries, cutting thousands of different species of wood, using thousands of different saws.

So, they pick something generic.

Philbert
 

Khntr85

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Ya I am comfortable with those number for the guys that cut 2-riks of firewood a year and cut with their chain til the bar starts to smoke…

For my own chain I am not into racing….i am Into the fastest chain I can make, with the most durability…..I cut oak, locust, hickory, ect so speed and duribility go hand in hand….hopefully people keep experimenting and fine tuneing their numbers to thier own needs and keep us posted with pics and results
 

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Do you have different chains sharpened for different wood / conditions?

‘Nobody plays golf with just one club!’

Philbert
Actually yes….depending on hardness and how dirty it is, I definitely change my tactics….
I have more aggressive chains for clean wood, down to semi chisel for anything that could have dirt/debris..
 

Philbert

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Actually yes….depending on hardness and how dirty it is, I definitely change my tactics….
I have more aggressive chains for clean wood, down to semi chisel for anything that could have dirt/debris..
Much better approach than ‘one size fits all’, or ‘one best’ chain!

Philbert
 

Wilhelm

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I have so little softwood (speed wood) access that I grind all chains the same to be work chains for hardwoods.
And those chains perform very well in the odd softwood I may encounter.
Happy Gillmore needs only one special club to be superior on the golf course and beat his seasoned opponents! ;)
"It's all in the hips ..."

Finding a grinding sweet spot on those little .325" & 3/8"LP chains took some trial and error.
I am still tinkering on that as I use "small saws" fairly rarely.
 

Wilhelm

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Here is a trick.
To regain love for Your Vanguard chain, "fix it".

I run this one on my PS-6100 MMWS.
Just a regular work chain in Turkey oak.

And NO, Turkey oak does not generate big long chips like beech and ash do unless You noodle it.

IMG_20240224_143309~2.jpg IMG_20240224_143325~2.jpg
 

Khntr85

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Here is a trick.
To regain love for Your Vanguard chain, "fix it".

I run this one on my PS-6100 MMWS.
Just a regular work chain in Turkey oak.

And NO, Turkey oak does not generate big long chips like beech and ash do unless You noodle it.

View attachment 409266 View attachment 409267
I like that idea….that vanguard is very strange…..I have 2-loops that came in groups of saws I bought….i may have to whack those takers into shape and try it
 
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