Chain talk

[Chainsaw Jim]

I second this! I'm only doing round file, but when filing w/ saw bar in a vise the powerhead can affect me by being in the way in one direction along w/ me being a lefty it compounds the problem. Bar in the other direction is my strong side -- can end up taking more off teeth on strong side. When I want to get a really good edge I take the chain off and use the @Homelite410 chain vise -- it helps to have less of strong/weak side and the teeth are held super rigid so you get much more precise with each stroke. I file every time I go out -- on the bar when in a hurry. When a chain takes a hit (staples or nails or whatever in yard trees) I get out my trusty @Homelite410 vise and have at it. I use a husky roller guide for angle and depth in the gullet and the vise has a relief cut so the roller guide can fit. Also use oregon center drop depth gauge tool at 0.025 but take a little more off when cutting pine. Get nice big chips out of my 262 and 372... nothing more satisfying than a pile of chips and a saw that self feeds... some norway maple was cutting real nice last weekend.

I find that if I take a break when I switch sides it allows my brain some reset time and makes it easier to adjust my other arm accordingly for smooth filing. That and I also start with my lame weak side first.

 

[malk315]

I find that if I take a break when I switch sides it allows my brain some reset time and makes it easier to adjust my other arm accordingly for smooth filing. That and I also start with my lame weak side first.

Yup -- I start with the weak side first too!

I'd like to know how my sharpening stacks up to others... not for bragging rights or to bash egos or any of that crap, but just to know. I agree with whoever said that hand filed can seem to cut better/faster than ground. Just don't know until I try some other chains that aren't mine. Pretty sure I've got at least or very slightly better performance than a brand new in box chain... could be mainly due to being a little aggressive on depth gauges -- out the box is probably set right at 0.025 or something. Maybe at the next GTG I can try some other chains on my saws if anyone is willing!

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

i hear of guys taking 2 swipes on a new chain ,that makes me cringe

I'm unsure of how many brands let quality control slip, but I've noticed several stihl brand chains having very uneven grinding off the roll. One side is normal then the other side is too tight to fit the file without immediately forcing it. At the gtg we took a brand new factory filed stihl brand chain and doubled its cutting speed after straightening it out with a timberline sharpener. The design of that sharpener allowed us to see exactly how the teeth were not all at the correct angles.

 

[Philbert]

Why do longer chips help?

Part of the function of the gullet is to break chips into smaller pieces so that they are easier to clear. They usually snap at the grain 'line', where they are more brittle. Long chips are just fun.

Philbert

 

[jmssaws]

It's probably been 10 years since I tried to use a new 3/8 chain without filing it first,some 404 is ok new but it's generally to aggressive and needs hit a few times.

 

[Wilhelm]

My PS-6400's current work chain, round filed Dolmar.
Makes a very narrow kerf, but bucks and noodles beech something fierce!
That tooth is about 1.5mm from the witness mark away - lots of life left in that loop!

 

[czar800]

Great info.

 

[Wilhelm]

It's probably been 10 years since I tried to use a new 3/8 chain without filing it first,some 404 is ok new but it's generally to aggressive and needs hit a few times.

I find that Dolmar & Oregon loops feature good to great factory out-of-the-box sharpness.
I use 3/8" .058" round ground chisel tooth loops.

The TriLink loop I am using on my PS-7900 this year didn't feed fresh out-of-the-box at all, and is barely feeding now that its heavily modified - also this particular loop won't noodle worth poop.
Yeah, and I have another 4 new TriLink loops to wear out.

 

[KenJax Tree]

TriLink Is best in the scrap bin

 

[junkman]

I'm unsure of how many brands let quality control slip, but I've noticed several stihl brand chains having very uneven grinding off the roll. One side is normal then the other side is too tight to fit the file without immediately forcing it. At the gtg we took a brand new factory filed stihl brand chain and doubled its cutting speed after straightening it out with a timberline sharpener. The design of that sharpener allowed us to see exactly how the teeth were not all at the correct angles.

I meant 2 swipes off the rakers ,not the cutters ,sorry i should have typed rakers in there also ,i do not proof read some times ,lol

 

[jmssaws]

I meant 2 swipes off the rakers ,not the cutters ,sorry i should have typed rakers in there also ,i do not proof read some times ,lol

That makes more sense. Lol

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Does this look like it will cut?

 

[malk315]

I find that Dolmar & Oregon loops feature good to great factory out-of-the-box sharpness.
I use 3/8" .058" round ground chisel tooth loops.

The TriLink loop I am using on my PS-7900 this year didn't feed fresh out-of-the-box at all, and is barely feeding now that its heavily modified - also this particular loop won't noodle worth poop.
Yeah, and I have another 4 new TriLink loops to wear out.

Agreed -- I use oregon loops that are usually great out of the box also 3/8" .058" . Agree with Philbert the depth gauges can be dropped some right away.
Hoping we can have a chain clinic at next GTG... lot of satisfaction when a freshly filed chain feeds fast and cuts quick.

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Agreed -- I use oregon loops that are usually great out of the box also 3/8" .058" . Agree with Philbert the depth gauges can be dropped some right away.
Hoping we can have a chain clinic at next GTG... lot of satisfaction when a freshly filed chain feeds fast and cuts quick.

My 2cents racker/depth guages are used to compensate for improperly sharpened chain. Not busting anyone's chops just my opinion.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

 

[XP_Slinger]

I started learning how to square file recently. It cut smooth but it wasn't as fast as the round ground that my brother was running. I'll keep going with it on one chain just because it's different and I like trying stuff. I don't even give my left hand a chance, I rotate my vice perpendicular to my bench so the nose is facing me, then I can file the other side right handed. Turned out pretty good. Still have a lot of learning to do

 

[Brewz]

Great thread!

I notice a difference between chains but finding good information of what works best is difficult.
I am interested in work chain for use in hardwood. No pine around here.

I just went and had a closer look at a few different chains and the differences are shocking.

$90 30" loop of Stihl 3/8 chain. Check out the rubbish finish on the grind



Oregon 3/8 which is better on the grind but if its a flat front on the rakers then clearing chips will not be this chains best feature.



Cheap Chinese chain which actually works REALLY well. Hurricane I think.
Cuts well, holds an edge well, less stretch that Oregon and Carlton and only $17 a loop for 20" bar
Also has a nice flat front on the rakes



I have been unimpressed with Carlton chain after buying a couple loops to try. Its not bad but it stretches a LOT and doesn't cut as well as the Chinese chain.
Chips are always dustier and on reading this I think the big fat fronts on the rakers may be skipping over the chips and grinding them up in the kerf.

The notes on strait fronts on the rakers to clear chips really interests me.
I am going to take the front off the rakers as I have on one below to see what difference it makes



Thoughts?

 

[Stump Shot]

@Brewz , I'll give ya my 2 cents for what it is worth. The first three pictures are a perfect example of not getting the gullet out. That little inverted V left from sharpening, take that out, file, grinder whatever, get it out of there down to the bottom that connects to the raker. Should make a smooth transition for chip flow. If you can take smaller "bites" with the grinder and set it down to the bottom it will take the gullet out for you as you go along. The bottom chain is a semi-chiseled tooth and they will cut a little slower but also need a different grind to cut right, try adding a little more angle to give the tooth a little bit more "hook". While slower they do last just a tad longer. Happy sharpening.

 

[Brewz]

Haha.... thanks mate, but the first 3 photos are new unused chains. I just thought I would show how the expensive Stihl chain is actually the worst of the lot.
I dont own or use an electric sharpener..... I only hand file.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Haha.... thanks mate, but the first 3 photos are new unused chains. I just thought I would show how the expensive Stihl chain is actually the worst of the lot.
I dont own or use an electric sharpener..... I only hand file.

Of those 3 chains, that Chinese chain would be in the trash, right next to the Oregon.