Chain Sharpening

[Woodrow]

What does everyone think of the Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener?

I am new to sharpening my own chains. Is the way to get started with a Granberg File N Joint or the likes? I have a couple of Stihl 3/8 .050 safety chains to learn on before I graduate to some of my really good RS and LGX chains.

What are your thoughts?

 

[Wolverine]

http://opeforum.com/threads/timberline-sharpener-discount-for-opeforum.1871/

 

[Gunn]

For the price of a timberline you're almost at the price of a decent used grinder.

The file and joint has several pro's going for it. They're more economical, more versatile, more adjustable, and replacing a file is mega cheap.

 

[CR888]

They are good but expensive and you need to buy pricey burrs when they eventually wear. I'd buy a Oregon style 510/511 style knockoff and a bunch of files and maybe a granberg unit with the same money a timberline costs. If you want to learn properly how to sharpen in the field a hand file is the best way to go. If you don't know how to file and learn on a timberline you will never know how to use a file and many wouod agree being at least a decent hand filer is important if you want to play with saws.

 

[Sid Hooper]

Learn to hand file them and save the chains. Grinders eat chains.

 

[Hedgerow]

What does everyone think of the Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener?

I am new to sharpening my own chains. Is the way to get started with a Granberg File N Joint or the likes? I have a couple of Stihl 3/8 .050 safety chains to learn on before I graduate to some of my really good RS and LGX chains.

What are your thoughts?

The granberg file n joint is a great tool for a beginning filer.
A bit of a contraption though.
Lol

 

[Hedgerow]

Learn to hand file them and save the chains. Grinders eat chains.

This may often be the case in the hands of a caveman, but it doesn't necessarily have to be so in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing.
And why they do what they do.

 

[jakethesnake]

This may often be the case in the hands of a caveman, but it doesn't necessarily have to be so in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing.
And why they do what they do.

I wanted to say the same just didn't bother it's sorta a misconception

 

[KenJax Tree]

I got pretty good with my grinder but still like hand filing better. JMO

 

[jakethesnake]

I like all methods really I feel like each one teaches you somthing you can learn every time you sharpen regardless of skill level

 

[Hedgerow]

I even break out my father's old Granberg every now and then..
A little slower and more persnickety, but still delivers a great end product.
I guess it's more of a trip down memory lane than worrying about how much time it takes to get to the destination.
I file or grind almost every day.
On something.
Whether it needs it or not.
Lol.

 

[jakethesnake]

I agree I like all methods I'm no master at any but can take a file free hand and do better than most I run into around here not this site but round my home I've been thinking of a grand burg just to have also a carlton fil o plate for rakers I use the oregon guide it's so so ... Usually just swipe at em with a file

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

It's hard to beat a Husky roller guide.

 

[CR500]

I have a cheap grinder for rocked chains and for the occasional customer.

However I prefer the granberg and the FG2, I also have an ATOP that I am still fooling around with.

I am still on the look out for a good used square grinder for a reasonable price if anyone has anything.

Sent from my non internal combustion device.

 

[CTYank]

I use Granberg guide exclusively for my chains, 'cept for rocked ones. That's for sharpening the cutters as best I can do them.
For the depth gauges, I first check a few with a flat file and Oregon depth-gauge guide- the kind you set on tops of two successive cutters. If there was nothing removed, done. Else, put a 6" flat file in the Granberg guide, set it for .025" depth-gauges and hit 'em a few licks. Done
For others' chains, a NT knock-off grinder can be induced to do a decent job for a $100 grinder. Side-play lets you control metal-removal a lot.

 

[Hedgerow]

I use Granberg guide exclusively for my chains, 'cept for rocked ones. That's for sharpening the cutters as best I can do them.
For the depth gauges, I first check a few with a flat file and Oregon depth-gauge guide- the kind you set on tops of two successive cutters. If there was nothing removed, done. Else, put a 6" flat file in the Granberg guide, set it for .025" depth-gauges and hit 'em a few licks. Done
For others' chains, a NT knock-off grinder can be induced to do a decent job for a $100 grinder. Side-play lets you control metal-removal a lot.

Side play...
This is truth.
AKA, "flex".
Take the bare minimum to clean the cutting edges.
And keep yer stone clean.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I even break out my father's old Granberg every now and then..
A little slower and more persnickety, but still delivers a great end product.
I guess it's more of a trip down memory lane than worrying about how much time it takes to get to the destination.
I file or grind almost every day.
On something.
Whether it needs it or not.
Lol.

Rainy day, so I brought out my Granberg 12-volt grinder today and found a good stone. Man that thing works better than I ever remembered. Plus, it was fun. Sharpening on the bar is sometimes a real plus. Ask any logger who files sharpens long chains out in the sticks.

 

[CoreyB]

I use the Oregon version of the Granberg file n joint. Set up takes me a bit to get right and is not a fast job. But I do get Sharp chains that cut straight. A pair of calipers come in real handy to get everything even. But man it takes me a long time. There is also a bit more of a learning curve then I expected.

 

[RI Chevy]

Why is it that some advertise this?

5/32" files are used to sharpen 1/4" pitch and 3/8" Low Profile (Picco) chainsaw chain.

3/16" files are used to sharpen .325" pitch chainsaw chain.

13/64" files are used to sharpen 3/8" pitch chainsaw chain.

7/32" files are used to sharpen .404" pitch chainsaw and harvester chain.

When some say that it is OK to use 7/32" to sharpen 3/8" pitch chain? What's the real deal here?

 

[CR500]

Why is it that some advertise this?

5/32" files are used to sharpen 1/4" pitch and 3/8" Low Profile (Picco) chainsaw chain.

3/16" files are used to sharpen .325" pitch chainsaw chain.

13/64" files are used to sharpen 3/8" pitch chainsaw chain.

7/32" files are used to sharpen .404" pitch chainsaw and harvester chain.

When some say that it is OK to use 7/32" to sharpen 3/8" pitch chain? What's the real deal here?

I use 7/32 on my 3/8 chain, I find it fits the cutter better

Sent from my non internal combustion device.