Chain gauge

[59billy]

Okay, guys, I think I did okay at Remedial Chains Class. Give me a saw and a bar, and I can buy the right chain almost always.

But here's my question: starting from scratch, PHO, and no sprocket on the saw, is there a real advantage to .50 vs .58 vs .623?

I'm intentionally ignoring .43 because too many numbers make me dizzy.

 

[ammoaddict]

Okay, guys, I think I did okay at Remedial Chains Class. Give me a saw and a bar, and I can buy the right chain almost always.

But here's my question: starting from scratch, PHO, and no sprocket on the saw, is there a real advantage to .50 vs .58 vs .623?

I'm intentionally ignoring .43 because too many numbers make me dizzy.

I'm assuming you mean .063. Never heard of .623. The sprocket only determines pitch, not gauge.

 

[59billy]

I'm assuming you mean .063. Never heard of .623. The sprocket only determines pitch, not gauge.

Yes. I am, actually, an idiot.

What I'm asking here is, all else being equal, how much does chain gauge matter.

 

[Squish9]

Run whatever is most common in your area because it will be the cheapest. I run 058 and 063 because 050 is uncommon here so there is a limited choice in what's available.

I don't see an advantage or disadvantage with any of them in normal lengths. 28"+ the 063 appears to stabilize better but I could also be imagining things because I have only ever had 1 long 050 bar

 

[EFSM]

Run whatever is most common in your area because it will be the cheapest. I run 058 and 063 because 050 is uncommon here so there is a limited choice in what's available.

Overseas .058 is very common (about 1.5mm), but here in the US it is by far the least common. I personally don't see any advantage to .058 except for stronger drive tangs: many chain brands share rivet width between .050 and .058 and simply grind the .050 drive link narrower on the bottom half. Also, most .050 and .058 bars are the same width overall, meaning the rails are thinner with .058. (I'm speaking from strictly US experience)
Of course, .063 bars are wider, so the rails and whole chain are stronger but must cut a wider kerf to keep the same bar-to-wood clearance.

 

[Squish9]

Overseas .058 is very common (about 1.5mm), but here in the US it is by far the least common. I personally don't see any advantage to .058 except for stronger drive tangs: many chain brands share rivet width between .050 and .058 and simply grind the .050 drive link narrower on the bottom half. Also, most .050 and .058 bars are the same width overall, meaning the rails are thinner with .058. (I'm speaking from strictly US experience)
Of course, .063 bars are wider, so the rails and whole chain are stronger but must cut a wider kerf to keep the same bar-to-wood clearance.

Yep, it's the lower that changes. Oregon is 050 and 058 same with a coined (thinned) drive tang below the straps. Their 063 is bigger the whole way.

Stihl is 063 and coined to make 050 or 058. Uppers are the same.

I don't see much of an advantage either way. If 050 is what's common around you then it's the right choice because of the more options and, most likely, lower price

 

[hacskaroly]

What I'm asking here is, all else being equal, how much does chain gauge matter.

Some will say a skinnier gauge will "increase" the chain speed because of less drag. Stihl was marketing this, for a long time their .325 chain was always .063 gauge and in the last couple of years they have introduced .325 .050 chain and most of their new saws that used to use the .325 .063 now come with .325 .050. It gets confusing to the customer if they don't get their numbers off of their bar before coming in to get a new chain. My MS 261 has a .325 .063 bar, but my dad's MS 261 (bought last year) has .325 .050 bar and chain. I think Stihl said that the .050 chain is 10% faster... maybe, maybe not. Here in the US, you should be able to find .050 or .063 chain relatively easily, .058 chain will be more limited unless getting Oregon and Husqvarna and possibly some other smaller brands.

Best bet if you already have a chainsaw with .325 .063 then stick with that (vice versa if you already have .325 .050), it will save on confusion of which chain you have, then at that point all you really have to remember is driver count for the saw you need the chain for. For me, I try to keep everything at .325 .063 and 3/8 .050 as that is what I have the most of.

You don't have to worry about .043 gauge unless you are fitting to a smaller chainsaw using the 3/8" LP/pico or 1/4" chain.

TL-DR - for racing saws, it may matter, for firewood cutting, it does not matter (personal preference).

 

[el33t]

Of course, .063 bars are wider, so the rails and whole chain are stronger but must cut a wider kerf to keep the same bar-to-wood clearance.

This is not necessarily true. E.g., for 3/8 Rapid Super/Micro Stihl chains, the chain kerf will be the same width for all gauges.

Yep, it's the lower that changes. Oregon is 050 and 058 same with a coined (thinned) drive tang below the straps. Their 063 is bigger the whole way.

Stihl is 063 and coined to make 050 or 058. Uppers are the same.

Of course, to be strict, this changed with the introduction of Pro (or Hexa) chains. Oregon 95 can probably also rather be treated as an exception.

Some will say a skinnier gauge will "increase" the chain speed because of less drag. Stihl was marketing this, for a long time their .325 chain was always .063 gauge and in the last couple of years they have introduced .325 .050 chain and most of their new saws that used to use the .325 .063 now come with .325 .050.

Stihl has produced .325 .050 chains for a very long time. They had the same width as the other gauges. That changed a few years ago with the introduction of .325 Pro chains, which have a narrower kerf compared to the earlier .050 (or .063) chains.
Of course, as you wrote, before the introduction of Pro chains, .325/.063 chains were standard equipment on their saws.

Since the new chains cut a narrower kerf, then, in the grand scheme of things assuming no change in other chain sharpening parameters, they should be faster or, in other words, need less energy to cut the same log. They simply remove less material in the process.

 

[59billy]

Thanks for all the good answers to my badly worded question.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Finding any variety of chain you want won't be a problem with .050 for the length of bar you're running. Options will be limited with the other gauges.

 

[ammoaddict]

Thanks for all the good answers to my badly worded question.

I think i misread the question. It wasn't a bad question. I didn’t mean to sound like a smart elic. Glad you found your answers. Have a blessed day.

 

[59billy]

I think i misread the question. It wasn't a bad question. I didn’t mean to sound like a smart elic. Glad you found your answers. Have a blessed day.

Thanks. It did turn into an interesting discussion, so everybody wins!

 

[Bill G]

Run what is locally available

 

[Ketchup]

Run what you have. If you already have bars and chains in one gauge, stick with that. Interchangeable bars and chains is always a good idea. You can order almost any gauge chain on-line for competitive prices. If this is your first saw, I’d do .050” first but .063” is extremely common.

 

[hacskaroly]

You can order almost any gauge chain on-line for competitive prices.

Unfortunately, .404 .058 does not fit under "almost"... For those who do have it, I think they are trading it for gold bars!

 

[59billy]

Best bet if you already have a chainsaw with .325 .063 then stick with that (vice versa if you already have .325 .050), it will save on confusion of which chain you have, then at that point all you really have to remember is driver count for the saw you need the chain for. For me, I try to keep everything at .325 .063 and 3/8 .050 as that is what I have the most of.

That's what I've always done. But then, I am a subject of 20 years of drinking the Stihl kool-aid! Small saws: .325 063. Big saws: 3/8 .050.

 

[hacskaroly]

Small saws: .325 063.

No need to change this unless you go to get a new bar and all they have is .325 .050, then you will have to make a decision or go buy on-line.

 

[Bill G]

Unfortunately, .404 .058 does not fit under "almost"... For those who do have it, I think they are trading it for gold bars!

Do you need some?

 

[Bill G]

I am sitting here sorting through a tub of new loops now.

 

[hacskaroly]

Do you need some?

I have two McCulloch bars which are .404 .058, not sure how many drivers off hand, I will have to get out one of my chains and see. The ones I have have a couple of links that are rusted through. Been working on them with Evaporust but they are being stubborn. I didn't want to try punching them out without parts to put them back together with. I will PM you with the count and see what we can work out.