filing depth gauge without a tool?

[r7000]

have a stihl 029 saw that has an oregon 18" bar and 3/8" chain.
Chain has some use on it, I filed the teeth then used it once (one tank full) and it cut ok, but not as fast as I think it should have cut. I am thinking the depth gauge of the chain needs cleaning up.

my question is, with or without a depth gauge tool, what is the measurement (as in thousandths of an inch) that the tooth that I normally file to sharpen should protrude above the depth gauge tooth? i.e. I don't want to buy a tool I just wanna run a file on it, how much vertical distance should there be above the depth gauge that exposes the cutting tooth so I have some clue?

...also, why or how often does the depth gauge of the chain need to be filed? And why? wouldn't the depth gauge wear on its own from use, making having to file it down be rare? What would be the affects if I just went redneck with a file and took off "significant" amount off the top of the depth gauge tooth? Looking for practical info, I've always just run a round hand file, 5/32 or 3/16 on the cutting tooth to sharpen my chains over the years and never had a problem... not a fan of getting all fancy with sharpening tools and schit

 

[Philbert]

Depth gauges determine how deep of a 'bite', or the thickness of the 'chip' removed by each cutter. They are similar to setting the depth on a woodworking plane, if you have experience with those.

First, the plane blade (iron) has to be sharp. But, if the plane blade is too high, it will skim right over the wood. If the plane blade is too low, it will dig in and try to tear the wood, or make the plane hard to push. Set just right, the user will cut smoothly and get smooth chips.

Same with a chainsaw cutter. Both edges have to be sharp. But, while we can lower the depth gauge to take a deeper cut, it is practically impossible to raise or adjust it higher for a shallower cut. So care must be taken when lowering the depth gauges.



0.025" is the 'standard', recommended setting for most depth gauges. In softer wood, or with more powerful chainsaws, sometimes you can go lower (0.030"). But in hard wood, or with lower power saws, that can set up some substantial 'chatter'.



As the cutter wears, or gets filed / ground back, the top plate gets lower, so the relationship with the depth gauge changes. File the cutter first, then assess the depth gauge. You can measure this offset with a simple tool from Oregon, STIHL, etc., for about $5. Or you can use feeler gauges with a straight edge, a dial indicator, or many other machinists' tools. The basic chainsaw ones are easy to throw in with your sharpening stuff.

Always file 'from the inside out', and round over the depth gauge after filing it, to avoid creating a sharp point that could catch in the wood.



Philbert

 

[Squareground3691]

Liking these

 

[big_eddy]

Why always inside out on the depth gauges? I sharpen left teeth, then rights, but I usually set all the depth gauges on a single pass from whichever side was last.

 

[PA Plumber]

I used to get concerned about making sure there was a nice ramp from the top of the depth gauge to just above the tie strap. Haven't worried about that in years.
I set the grinder to zero tilt, zero angle and zero offset. My grinding wheel spins so that left hand cutters have no bur, so when grinding depth gauges (rakers) I grind the right hand rakers first, then flip the chain on the grinder and grind the left hand rakers. On my set up, this grinds down the rakers from the center of the chain out.

Why always inside out on the depth gauges? I sharpen left teeth, then rights, but I usually set all the depth gauges on a single pass from whichever side was last.

It might not matter one bit as long as the chain is clamped in to place and there is good consistency on finished raker height.

Maybe this is terribly unsafe and horribly bad advice...
I do not use the grinder vise clamp when grinding rakers.
If I try to do the "near" side (outside in) rakers there is a terrible chatter. If I grind from the inside out, it's very smooth.
This is the same for me when using a flat file when out in the woods. When I hand file chain teeth and depth gauges, inside out is smooth.

 

[Philbert]

Why always inside out on the depth gauges?

As @PA Plumber notes, less chatter, which leads to a smoother surface.


Philbert

 

[r7000]

is 0.065" way too much? Watched some youtube, mention was made about more raker depth for softwood versus hardwood. most of the time I don't even know the kind of tree I'm cutting.

found the stihl file and raker tool thing in my toolbox, and looking at the depth gauge tool wanna say it said 065 on the end of it where the raker would protrude to be filed.
anyway, I dressed up the old chain last night, i guess i have to find something to cut now to test it out.
This chain has some miles on it, and if i messed it up I have a new in box chain ready to go.

 

[Squareground3691]

is 0.065" way too much? Watched some youtube, mention was made about more raker depth for softwood versus hardwood. most of the time I don't even know the kind of tree I'm cutting.Yes it’s way to much .025 to .035 is standard. More than .035 ya better have a big torque behind it depending on wood and becomes to aggressive to pull smoothly

 

[r7000]

i'll look at the tool tonight, in better lighting, and maybe post a pic of it. maybe i was mistaken on that 065 number.
but thank u for saying 0.025 is standard and more than 0.035" is not good, that's essentially the info I was looking for.

And raker depth of 0.025" to less than 0.035" pretty much (as a general guideline to remember) applies to all chains (pico, .325, .404) and all saws and all woods (hard or soft) being cut?

 

[jakethesnake]

i'll look at the tool tonight, in better lighting, and maybe post a pic of it. maybe i was mistaken on that 065 number.
but thank u for saying 0.025 is standard and more than 0.035" is not good, that's essentially the info I was looking for.

And raker depth of 0.025" to less than 0.035" pretty much (as a general guideline to remember) applies to all chains (pico, .325, .404) and all saws and all woods (hard or soft) being cut?

Pretty much yes. In my opinion if you get the chain itself sharp enough. You’ll gain cutting speed just because the saw engine labors less. I go about .030. Max. I’ve got a couple saws that hang around .020. Example 272 32” bar. To pull it fast I need high gauges. I think a saw becomes unsafe after too much is taken off depth gauge. I like smooth not grabby and “pushy”.

I’ve played around with low “rakers” on short bars with big cc. I don’t like it. There’s a sweet spot. .030 is about it for myself.

my biggest concern is if you undercut. The saw can push completely out of the cut. Which would kickback severely. Just my experience.

 

[jakethesnake]

View attachment 343250 Liking these

What ya got there square ground ? I have a couple old file o plate. They don’t work on some of the new chassis. I have 3/8 and 325 husky plates. This the same?

 

[Squareground3691]

What ya got there square ground ? I have a couple old file o plate. They don’t work on some of the new chassis. I have 3/8 and 325 husky plates. This the same?

Yea I’ve used the old Carlton file-O- plate myself, the old Husky depth plates worked to the new one are not as good steel not tempered very well , been using WSC depth plate lately I like it

 

[jakethesnake]

Yea I’ve used the old Carlton file-O- plate myself, the old Husky depth plates worked to the new one are not as good steel not tempered very well , been using WSC depth plate lately I like it

I’ll check them out. Thank you for sharing

 

[jakethesnake]

Yea I’ve used the old Carlton file-O- plate myself, the old Husky depth plates worked to the new one are not as good steel not tempered very well , been using WSC depth plate lately I like it

Checked em out. Fair price. Looks pretty darn slick. Might have to get some

 

[Squareground3691]

Yea I’ve used the old Carlton file-O- plate myself, the old Husky depth plates worked to the new one are not as good steel not tempered very well , been using WSC depth plate lately I like it

Checked em out. Fair price. Looks pretty darn slick. Might have to get some

Yea I think you’ll like them , gives ya a couple different depths to set them at accordingly to the ur cutting preferences

 

[Philbert]

is 0.065" way too much?

Yes.

But I’ll bet that’s a metric measurement (6.5mm), not decimal inches.


Philbert

 

[r7000]

Yes.

But I’ll bet that’s a metric measurement (6.5mm), not decimal inches.


Philbert

 

[PA Plumber]

Here's the old Stihl tool I have...

Good for angles, depth gauges, cleaning the bar grove/oiler hole, and general hygiene!
I have only used it for depth gauges, bar oiler hole and bar grooves though.

 

[ray benson]

Yes.

But I’ll bet that’s a metric measurement (6.5mm), not decimal inches.


Philbert

.65mm = .025"

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Yes.

But I’ll bet that’s a metric measurement (6.5mm), not decimal inches.


Philbert

.65mm = .025"

that is what I was going to say, 0.65
I’m not being smart, it’s just metric is what we work with mostly. And 6.5mm is like 1/4”

It’s easy to put the decimal point in the wrong place, I’ve done it many times as well as not put it in clearly enough