Carbon fiber 42” bar

[MG2186]

This one will have one smaller 1/16” panel in the middle and one larger on each side. In the future I might leave the middle flange very thin and just have one thicker panel on each side.

When I did my 28” small mount that’s how I did it. Only one machining step and then had something to rivet then inset to. It’s a smidge lighter than the 28” large mount ones I have.

 

[davidwyby]

I am hoping and expecting CF to be an improvement over alum, but heat may be an issue...for me here in Hell anyway...

Rigidity
Rigidity refers to how much an object retains its shape even when acted upon by other forces. Carbon fiber is between two and five times more rigid than aluminum at the same thickness. The difference depends on the overall quality of the carbon fiber.

Strength
It’s also important to compare the strength of two materials which have the same thickness. Aluminum has a strength of about 500 kilonewtons compared to carbon fiber which can have up to 1600 kilonewtons of strength.

Weight
The weight of a material is particularly important when trying to make a vehicle that’s faster or more fuel-efficient. It’s particularly important for getting aircraft into the air.

Replacing the aluminum in an object with carbon fiber can reduce its weight by nearly half without compromising strength or rigidity.

Conductability
Since nearly everything uses electricity to some degree, it’s important to look at how well your materials will conduct it. Aluminum is a great conductor of electricity which can make it dangerous in some applications.

Carbon fiber, on the other hand, does not conduct electricity well and can often be used as an insulator to protect against electric shocks.

Heat Resistance
As a result of exposure to weather or the heat of the engine caused by friction, a material has to resist expanding or failing under heat. Aluminum can always resist high temperatures but carbon fibers can only resist moderately-high temperatures when properly cured.

 

[Woodpecker]

So @davidwyby are you going to go just epoxy or epoxy/carbon fiber? I think the drawback of a light weight bar out past about 32” is they tend to bend too much. I’d probably want to have the extra stiffness (there’s a soft pitch for you mfers) of carbon fiber in a 42” light weight bar.

 

[davidwyby]

So @davidwyby are you going to go just epoxy or epoxy/carbon fiber? I think the drawback of a light weight bar out past about 32” is they tend to bend too much. I’d probably want to have the extra stiffness (there’s a soft pitch for you mfers) of carbon fiber in a 42” light weight bar.

The CF panel arrived this morning for the 30" test mule. It's going to waterjet now. As I recall from running @SOS Ridgerider CF bars you will really like it 42".

 

[Woodpecker]

The CF panel arrived this morning for the 30" test mule. It's going to waterjet now. As I recall from running @SOS Ridgerider CF bars you will really like it 42".

I’d be in for a 42 Stihl mount with extra bar stud slot space to also use on my 395.

 

[Skeans1]

The CF panel arrived this morning for the 30" test mule. It's going to waterjet now. As I recall from running @SOS Ridgerider CF bars you will really like it 42".

Put together a 42 and I’ll test it I’ve got some oversized temple logs to go after.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Woodpecker]

What about your gaggle of 2511 saws. They heavy...

They all rock the black PANTHER bars meow…

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

I have no experience with Archer bars…Any good?

All I can say is start with a good bar.

The first one I did started off as a high quality GB bar, and turned out good. The second one was done on a budget, and started as a low quality cheap Forester bar, I think. Didn’t come out as good, and is whippier, if that makes sense, than the first one.
I should have started with at least an Oregon bar for the second one. Nothing superb, but proven good quality.

The weight savings were similar on both. About 40%.

Edit: The second started as a Laser bar, not Forester.

 

[redline4]

All I can say is start with a good bar.

The first one I did started off as a high quality GB bar, and turned out good. The second one was done on a budget, and started as a low quality cheap Forester bar, I think. Didn’t come out as good, and is whippier, if that makes sense, than the first one.
I should have started with at least an Oregon bar for the second one. Nothing superb, but proven good quality.

The weight savings were similar on both. About 40%.

Edit: The second started as a Laser bar, not Forester.

Aren't the Laser bars the same as the Carlton bars, just different name painted on?

 

[Kerfed]

Aluminum can always resist high temperatures but carbon fibers can only resist moderately-high temperatures when properly cured.

Curious about this part of the puzzle. Thinking about cutting dusty dead conifers and plugging oil ports. Or oiler dying like on the damn 440 mag. Bar can get screaming hot.

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

Aren't the Laser bars the same as the Carlton bars, just different name painted on?

I really don’t know. It was very cheap for a 36”, so I’d be surprised if that was true, but I guess anything is possible.

 

[davidwyby]

Curious about this part of the puzzle. Thinking about cutting dusty dead conifers and plugging oil ports. Or oiler dying like on the damn 440 mag. Bar can get screaming hot.

Dry hard Eucalyptus here in the desert gets things very hot.
We’ll see. May have to get hi temp CF. Or maybe it won’t work for hi temp apps?
@SOS Ridgerider could you torture your inexpensive 36”? Getting cold up there now though…

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

Dry hard Eucalyptus here in the desert gets things very hot.
We’ll see. May have to get hi temp CF. Or maybe it won’t work for hi temp apps?
@SOS Ridgerider could you torture your inexpensive 36”? Getting cold up there now though…

I do have bunch of wood to cut, so I’ll do whatever I can. It’s not wood big enough to warrant a 36”, but who cares. Lol

 

[mettee]

I just saw this I don't know how I missed it.

I did a few solidworks models in 4150, and cut a few different patterns into the bar. Then I ran them through strength tests that helped me land on a design which was a series of circles leaving a thin rib connecting everything.

I decided on laying up carbon and here is why. Most resins aren't high temp resins and they will be what let's go first. After talking with a buddy who works at Boeing in the composit shop he also confirmed my thoughts about the resin properties. He said the best combo of layup would consist of a through cell wrap of carbon, the high temp resin, and then drying under heat and pressure.

By cell, I mean, the individual machined pockets connecting them all together, that provides the rigidity.

I toyed with a thin aluminum cover, but I'd rather have carbon.

I guess it's all time and money. I'll see if I have a pic of the dxf or something

 

[mettee]

https://www.toraytac.com/products/thermoset/high-temperature-polyimides

 

[mettee]

Something like this high mod, with a high temp resin. It's strength in one direction, but it would get multi directional strength via a multi directional wrap.

Think proof research carbon barrel.

But it gets expensive fast. And the milling is more complex. But it would be the strongest possible light weight option. If milling is a viable option the carbon wrap can be done and dried in a oven under pressure. I've seen aluminum sheets pressed together in molds, then the entire thing placed in the oven. Since we are going for flat that's easier.

 

[Wilhelm]

Who's gonna ship me a custom made LW/RW bar to test, preferably with saw attached to it?!


Meh, I don't need one - I am good with what I have.

I think the hole is too big being milled out like that in one piece.

 

[Hinerman]

I just saw this I don't know how I missed it.

I did a few solidworks models in 4150, and cut a few different patterns into the bar. Then I ran them through strength tests that helped me land on a design which was a series of circles leaving a thin rib connecting everything.

I decided on laying up carbon and here is why. Most resins aren't high temp resins and they will be what let's go first. After talking with a buddy who works at Boeing in the composit shop he also confirmed my thoughts about the resin properties. He said the best combo of layup would consist of a through cell wrap of carbon, the high temp resin, and then drying under heat and pressure.

By cell, I mean, the individual machined pockets connecting them all together, that provides the rigidity.

I toyed with a thin aluminum cover, but I'd rather have carbon.

I guess it's all time and money. I'll see if I have a pic of the dxf or something

Pics of your bars if you got them...

 

[Hinerman]

Carbon fiber inserts have been done before:

 

[ferris]