High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Carbon fiber 42” bar

Wilhelm

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I have thought of it...it seems awful light though. Will have to try it.
You'll have the water in the emulsion to help cool the B&C, as the water evaporates the oil will stay behind.
We use Fuchs EcoCool CF3, even at only 3% one can feel the "lubrication" effect of the emulsion, imagine going 10% , 20% and higher.

I thought of giving it a try, but I have so many saws and cut very irregularly I feared the water would cause oxydation if left in the saw for too long.
 

davidwyby

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Any way of making a mold you could pour into?


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I don’t know. I don’t have much experience with adhesives, etc. More mechanics, machining, welding. Loctite makes a mixing nozzle applicator which will be easier. Once you get the first plate in it’s pretty easy. I need to make some clamping plates. Then the trick is excess cleanup…wipe off while wet or scrape off later without damaging CF finish…
 

mettee

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You should try prepreg. Your able to use peel ply with a felt type backer. That will pull all extra resin out making your clean up and finish product much better.

Clamp it between two aluminum plates and warm it up so it will cure. When you pull it apart the cured resin in the peel ply pulls off.

I would vac it down as well as clamp it.
 
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Skeans1

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I was kicking myself for using an oddball 30” bar for the test bar because I don’t have another to compare it to.

But I just took the 28” Tsu off my 395 and put the 30” CF on and they balance the same!

View attachment 318694

First good test for it will it pop out your face without bending?


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Chainmale

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I was kicking myself for using an oddball 30” bar for the test bar because I don’t have another to compare it to.

But I just took the 28” Tsu off my 395 and put the 30” CF on and they balance the same!

View attachment 318694
Looking good. Looking forward to seeing how it goes
 

Woodpecker

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I was kicking myself for using an oddball 30” bar for the test bar because I don’t have another to compare it to.

But I just took the 28” Tsu off my 395 and put the 30” CF on and they balance the same!

View attachment 318694
Very nice!
 

davidwyby

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Hows it feel on the saw?
Same as a tsu 28”, ha!

I haven’t tried prying much yet, well, a couple stubborn cookies. I wanted to test temp first. I haven’t inspected it yet, it got dark.

that 30” cannon used to seem awful heavy for its size on the 395…
 

davidwyby

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Strange the top of the bar runs hottest, not where it’s cutting.

I stuck the nose in a vise and bent it around, probably too much, more than I would dream of while using the saw, and the ends of the CF started to pop out. I may have been stingy with the epoxy because I didn’t want it coming out everywhere and it was setting up on me too fast…but may need to rivet the ends.
 

huskyhank

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Strange the top of the bar runs hottest, not where it’s cutting.

I stuck the nose in a vise and bent it around, probably too much, more than I would dream of while using the saw, and the ends of the CF started to pop out. I may have been stingy with the epoxy because I didn’t want it coming out everywhere and it was setting up on me too fast…but may need to rivet the ends.

Or cut the ends of the relief for the insert longer for more surface area to bond?
 

mettee

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Strange the top of the bar runs hottest, not where it’s cutting.

I stuck the nose in a vise and bent it around, probably too much, more than I would dream of while using the saw, and the ends of the CF started to pop out. I may have been stingy with the epoxy because I didn’t want it coming out everywhere and it was setting up on me too fast…but may need to rivet the ends.


This is the reason Oregon rivets and epoxies their inserts in.

The prepreg layup will cover all the issues you are having. But I would suggest leaving a web of some shape in the bar as well. That would allow you to remove more material on the upper and lower rails as well. The trade off in weight and strength was the best I found by going with that method.
 

davidwyby

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This is the reason Oregon rivets and epoxies their inserts in.

The prepreg layup will cover all the issues you are having. But I would suggest leaving a web of some shape in the bar as well. That would allow you to remove more material on the upper and lower rails as well. The trade off in weight and strength was the best I found by going with that method.
I didn’t read that whole thread. Pics or vids? Doing it “wet” sounds hassleish. Epoxy is hassle enough…
 

mettee

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It's not really wet, jump on YouTube and watch a couple videos. I think it might change your mind.

Just so you know the pocket that's milled in your bar will allow for the least bond between the two materials, and in all load cases would be the weakest.

I'm speaking only from engineering stand point.

But I think it's rad as *s-word what you are doing. Keep going.
 

davidwyby

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It's not really wet, jump on YouTube and watch a couple videos. I think it might change your mind.

Just so you know the pocket that's milled in your bar will allow for the least bond between the two materials, and in all load cases would be the weakest.

I'm speaking only from engineering stand point.

But I think it's rad as *s-word what you are doing. Keep going.
Yeah that one didn’t get milled how I intended, I was out sick. I would think the two halve and the one smaller filler in the center would bond to each other well and effectively sandwich in though.
I hope to go to a larger, wider, thinner flange and only two halves of CF.
I will YT when I get a chance.

Random pic I saved from somewhere 3A525631-0E92-4DF7-B7D8-A39F71F5E9C2.png

@Benwa
 
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