Cannot find the RPM - 026

[Jimmy in NC]

OEM Nylon flows as well as metal in the larger MS260 large style.

The AM suck and don't flow. Ive had crappy AM filters where i had the H needle at 1/4 out tuned fat at 13500. Added a metal and H came out to 1.25 turns and saw sang at 15000 fat.

Been there, that's how I knew.

The AM choke flaps can pull shut as well.

So I am looking to either increase my vocabulary messing in a $2.00 filter or get an OEM 1121 120 1617?

The consensus is to avoid the 1121 120 1618 flocked filter?

 

[Al Smith]

Keep in mind a flocked filter has better filtration than a mesh filter .As such however they have to cleaned more often .

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Cutting firewood flocked will be fine. Heading to a GTG, metal mesh is the ticket. Get a couple and keep a clean one handy for a quick change in the field.

 

[srcarr52]

Ok... any master tips to how to properly discuss the state of the union with the spring as I make it get right?

Clip a coil (only maybe 3 in there) and then heat to bend it?

Maybe it's one coil, it's been a while since I modded one. Just bend it without heating it.

As for the state of the union discussion while installing, expletives will probably be in order, expletives of a non native languages are bonus points. E.G. porca puttana

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Maybe it's one coil, it's been a while since I modded one. Just bend it without heating it.

As for the state of the union discussion while installing, expletives will probably be in order, expletives of a non native languages are bonus points. E.G. porca puttana

Well since it is a Chinese filter maybe something like this:

圣洁的狗屎


I doubt it understands Italian....

 

[Jimmy in NC]

So I took a turn off the spring.....I discussed its mother and sisters and other items. Cleaned up some behind the choke flap. Trimmed some off the cone on the front of the flap.

Reassembled only to find the choke does not release fully with out assistance. I imagine this interference has been my main issue. This morning I installed the filter on a warm saw...no choke needed so the choke was not set.

 

[Basher]

So I took a turn off the spring.....I discussed its mother and sisters and other items. Cleaned up some behind the choke flap. Trimmed some off the cone on the front of the flap.

Reassembled only to find the choke does not release fully with out assistance. I imagine this interference has been my main issue. This morning I installed the filter on a warm saw...no choke needed so the choke was not set.

With enough fiddling one can be made to work, not everyone's fav thing to work on but doable. I posted picts several times over on AS on what I do to make the choke flap open back further making the opening larger for better flow. More work that its likely worth but a ported saw needs more air than these filters can flow just as they come.

 

[5000+]

I just run the tan felt oem on my moderately ported 260. I did trim some plastic so the flap would open more, don't rember if I shortened the spring. I had couple of older after market ones that were junk. Choke would not come close to sealing when closed and leaked alot of of debris, not just fines. I run it about 15k h needle about 3/4 out. It does pick up some with the filter off, but runs strong with it on.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

With enough fiddling one can be made to work, not everyone's fav thing to work on but doable. I posted picts several times over on AS on what I do to make the choke flap open back further making the opening larger for better flow. More work that its likely worth but a ported saw needs more air than these filters can flow just as they come.

I will go looking in a little bit.

 

[Al Smith]

Don't get me wrong because a tweaked 026 can be made into a dandy little cookie cutter but it's going to take a lot more work than what's been done to it .As a fire-wooder it's probably good enough as it is .
I don't profess to tell anybody how to rework the ports .I have my methods and they work .Only a suggestion that has already been mentioned .The upper transfers could show some improvement if sweeps directing the flow upwards and towards the area above the intake it would scavenge better .In other words clear more of the unburned gasses from the previous combusted charge more so filing that area with more fuel /air charge for the next round rather than exhaust fumes .Be careful how it's done because the area on the inner portion of the transfer is the area the ring ends travel .You don't want to snag a ring

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Don't get me wrong because a tweaked 026 can be made into a dandy little cookie cutter but it's going to take a lot more work than what's been done to it .As a fire-wooder it's probably good enough as it is .
I don't profess to tell anybody how to rework the ports .I have my methods and they work .Only a suggestion that has already been mentioned .The upper transfers could show some improvement if sweeps directing the flow upwards and towards the area above the intake it would scavenge better .In other words clear more of the unburned gasses from the previous combusted charge more so filing that area with more fuel /air charge for the next round rather than exhaust fumes .Be careful how it's done because the area on the inner portion of the transfer is the area the ring ends travel .You don't want to snag a ring

Al I appreciate the thoughts but I am not looking to make a cookie cutter. I am simply seeing what I can do with very basic tools. I've built so many saws this is the first one I've really said, "Let's see what I can do." I have no lathe and no Foredom (and certainly no right angle handpiece), just a $30 Dremel and some cheap burrs. Working upper transfers will be very tough with what I have. It is possible with some cut off wheels but that is sketchy at best. I also will need a degree wheel before I do anything to port timing. The approach this far is simply to clean up, blend, widen where possible, etc. These are the steps that I believe to be what use to be considered a woods port. Nothing wild... just a little more than stock.

I have run some very strong 026s and if I ever make it up to Nova Soctia I want to run some of Basher's. This is also an adventure to see what a box of parts left over from builds plus cheap China parts will yield. Right now it's looking like the China parts are not worth the hassle on the filter.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

So I messed around with a filter, and messed around. If I tightened the right mount screw fully the choke flap does not fully release. If the screw was backed off 1.5 turns it worked fine. I relieved, cleaned up, etc and had no joy at correcting the issue. I then took my cleaned up choke flap, stuck it in another China filter, tightened it down and it works flawless as far as operation. Another case of learning but being beat on by inferior parts. Raining off and on today but am riding to a little GTG tomorrow local. Will run it there and see if I can get a baseline before I take the jug back off and start to go for broke....if it makes it through tomorrow.

 

[Basher]

Al I appreciate the thoughts but I am not looking to make a cookie cutter. I am simply seeing what I can do with very basic tools. I've built so many saws this is the first one I've really said, "Let's see what I can do." I have no lathe and no Foredom (and certainly no right angle handpiece), just a $30 Dremel and some cheap burrs. Working upper transfers will be very tough with what I have. It is possible with some cut off wheels but that is sketchy at best. I also will need a degree wheel before I do anything to port timing. The approach this far is simply to clean up, blend, widen where possible, etc. These are the steps that I believe to be what use to be considered a woods port. Nothing wild... just a little more than stock.

I have run some very strong 026s and if I ever make it up to Nova Soctia I want to run some of Basher's. This is also an adventure to see what a box of parts left over from builds plus cheap China parts will yield. Right now it's looking like the China parts are not worth the hassle on the filter.

They will respond to each step and you will see increases with each small step like I have laid out in PM`s . You don`t need fancy tools to make gains in these saws and yes they can be made into serious runners if enough machine work is done to them but that raises them above what a good reliable woods port used to be. My own personal wood cutters are running 15,000 RPM and have held together for two years of wood harvesting, currently have 10 of them done up in differing stages, each one a bit more bold than the first. All of mine are OEM so far but I may build the next one with some AM parts, at this stage I really do not care if a saw does not last even a day in the woods, its no bother to me to blow one up in the name of science....LOL

 

[Al Smith]

You can get in the top of the transfers .You just have to find a long shaft cutter . A Dremel is all I have .I little round ball probably works best but it takes forever .You can sneak through the exhaust port too if you can .Strains the dickens out of your fingers and best not to crank the mini die grinder up to full speed .Damned things have tendency to get away from you . If I can locate the Dremels and the long bits I'll post a picture in a day or two .Right now I have no idea where they are hiding

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Had a chance to run the little 026 some yesterday. It runs best tuned at 13,500-13,800 running a filter with no choke flap and the filter cover removed.

So we have a baseline. I guess I will have to fold and fork the coin for an OEM filter... but as time allows the jug is coming back off for more fun.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

As usual, I always like a screamer. However, this class of saws (50ish CC) always have more guts when tuned below peak RPM. Nature of the beast.

 

[Basher]

Had a chance to run the little 026 some yesterday. It runs best tuned at 13,500-13,800 running a filter with no choke flap and the filter cover removed.

So we have a baseline. I guess I will have to fold and fork the coin for an OEM filter... but as time allows the jug is coming back off for more fun.

The OEM jugs make more power and RPM`s with a bit of work. I have yet to see a good AM jug , maybe out there but not that I have seen or even heard of from others. OEM jugs are plentiful and the one you already have looks salvageable to me.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Things are about to get serious... and possibly intelligent?!

 

[mettee]

I cut a piece of $7 lexan from HD into a circle and glued the paper wheel to it. Then I used a $20 chuck to mount to the crank. Not sure how you are doing it but thought I would share that.

Circle was cut with a router.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I cut a piece of $7 lexan from HD into a circle and glued the paper wheel to it. Then I used a $20 chuck to mount to the crank. Not sure how you are doing it but thought I would share that.

Circle was cut with a router.

$6 chuck and probably poster board. Real simple.