Archer .325 chain for milling

[ajschainsaws]

How is that archer chain doing is it holding up too the milling

 

[Iron.and.bark]

166 proof

 

[ajschainsaws]

That's good it passed the ultimate test we got quite a lot over here so it gotta be worth trying much cheaper than granberg

 

[Iron.and.bark]

The 166 put the stretch in it quicker, did settle down though. Has pretty much stayed put now.

I would advise though that it is run for a while in a non milling situation to get the stretch out before it's put on an Alaskan. Easy to tension up.

.325 on a 44" bar is a lot of links, so there is a lot of stretch.

 

[ajschainsaws]

That's a lot of links too stretch I gotta cut some 8" to 12" larch cladding and I think I will give this archer chain a spin on the chainsaw mill and see how it cuts

 

[Iron.and.bark]

That's a lot of links too stretch I gotta cut some 8" to 12" larch cladding and I think I will give this archer chain a spin on the chainsaw mill and see how it cuts

What saw you going to use? Mill system? Oh and pictures to please

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Couple I did the other day, probably off to a new home tomorrow.

 

[ajschainsaws]

Nice boards
I will probably use the 6100 just to see how it likes the mill and then turn too the 133 or maybe the Rex and see how it gets on with the neighbours

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Nice boards
I will probably use the 6100 just to see how it likes the mill and then turn too the 133 or maybe the Rex and see how it gets on with the neighbours

133 going to get that 143 p&c?

 

[peter92]

Well archer chain can take a beating.

View attachment 37597
View attachment 37598
View attachment 37599

Sorry for the picture quality, to dark for my phone to take good pictures, will snap a few more tomorrow.

I made a mistake setting the raker depth with this chain (again), set to aggressive. Made the cut far to "grabby". This also affected chain stretch to I believe. Chain stretched far quicker than before (though I am sure a dolmar 166 didn't help things here). By the last slab had settled down and didn't seem to be stretching any further.

These are fairly wide pieces, about 38" at one end. 166 and 44" bar should help give some perspective.

have you see any wear on the straps at all

 

[Iron.and.bark]

have you see any wear on the straps at all

Had a good look just then. There does not seem to be any discernible wear to them.

 

[peter92]

Had a good look just then. There does not seem to be any discernible wear to them.

thanks for looking and getting back to me
Peter

 

[peter92]

Good considered reply Philbert.

I have come across that recommendation before. Actually made me rather nervous when I first started using .325 on my 3120xp on the logosol. Have milled through a fair few loops without an trouble using .325 058 guage running 9 & 10 tooth sprockets on Oregon and Carlton chain.

Only chain I have ever had come apart on me was a .404. Everyone should be wearing chaps when milling period.

Also while the motor develops the same torque, the sprocket size raises the gearing at the expense of torque at the cutter face. Effectively reducing the load the links and rivets endure contacting the wood.

Would i be better dropping to 325 instead of using 3/8 on a 74cc saw

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Would i be better dropping to 325 instead of using 3/8 on a 74cc saw

What are you using it for?

 

[peter92]

What are you using it for?

learning to slab with a mill, 30'' bar

 

[Iron.and.bark]

If you already have a bar that is 3/8 I would use that at first.

There is abit involved in getting a bar around that size with a .325 roller nose tip. Usually have to buy a bar (gb brand is easiest) that is 3/8 and swap in a .325 nose by drilling out old rivets and peen hammering in new ones.

While .325 would be quicker and place less load on a saw that size, maybe best not to start out with till you know you like milling, as it is surprising how the costs add up.

What saw do you have? Bought your mill already?

When I have some time in a few weeks, will start a beginners milling thread on this site. Any help you need feel free to ask.

 

[peter92]

If you already have a bar that is 3/8 I would use that at first.

There is abit involved in getting a bar around that size with a .325 roller nose tip. Usually have to buy a bar (gb brand is easiest) that is 3/8 and swap in a .325 nose by drilling out old rivets and peen hammering in new ones.

While .325 would be quicker and place less load on a saw that size, maybe best not to start out with till you know you like milling, as it is surprising how the costs add up.

What saw do you have? Bought your mill already?

When I have some time in a few weeks, will start a beginners milling thread on this site. Any help you need feel free to ask.

Ive got a GB Pro Bar with the 3/8 roller nose and using a shinny 757 75cc, and using b/i mill
Look forwards to the new learning thread

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Ive got a GB Pro Bar with the 3/8 roller nose and using a shinny 757 75cc, and using b/i mill
Look forwards to the new learning thread

Not sure what a b/i mill is

As for the shindaiwa 757, for a smaller saw that is not a bad choice. 36mm stoke should make reasonable torque and atleast one of the main bearings are 6203, should help with saw life in this situation.

Just my opinion, but in our timber you will both need and want a bigger saw if you end up doing a bit more than the odd bit every 6 months

Since you have a pro bar, it is around $25 for a .325 nose plus fitting cost if you can't do yourself. 10 for a .325 sprocket and I guess $60-$70 for a name chain in .325 semi chisel (cuts slightly slower, but better finish and stays sharp longer). I like archer chain, but as I said kerf is larger than I would like, smaller saw, smaller kerf is less load. Chain needs to be ground/filed to 10°, CAN get away with 15 to start out with. Well truth be told can mill with any angle, just greater the amount gets, quicker it goes blunt.


As for a beginners thread, I don't know everything but have been doing this for quite a while. I like the people on here and would like to see more imput on the milling forum (not to mention lots of interesting timber)

 

[peter92]

Not sure what a b/i mill is

As for the shindaiwa 757, for a smaller saw that is not a bad choice. 36mm stoke should make reasonable torque and atleast one of the main bearings are 6203, should help with saw life in this situation.

Just my opinion, but in our timber you will both need and want a bigger saw if you end up doing a bit more than the odd bit every 6 months

Since you have a pro bar, it is around $25 for a .325 nose plus fitting cost if you can't do yourself. 10 for a .325 sprocket and I guess $60-$70 for a name chain in .325 semi chisel (cuts slightly slower, but better finish and stays sharp longer). I like archer chain, but as I said kerf is larger than I would like, smaller saw, smaller kerf is less load. Chain needs to be ground/filed to 10°, CAN get away with 15 to start out with. Well truth be told can mill with any angle, just greater the amount gets, quicker it goes blunt.


As for a beginners thread, I don't know everything but have been doing this for quite a while. I like the people on here and would like to see more imput on the milling forum (not to mention lots of interesting timber)

Im retired now , and need some slabs for home and never know could make some small amount on the side , i love cutting timber so i recon milling will be good , im not really worried if i dont cut fast as long a its done and safely , B/i brother inlaw , ive been looking for a 325 rim for the 757 but cant seem to find one , so maybe you might and im sure a Archer chain i got quoted for in semi skip , thought ripping chain would be too much for my saw , dont want to cook it
Ive also got a 20'' bar
And quoted $35 for 98dl 3/8 058 Archer chain

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Im retired now , and need some slabs for home and never know could make some small amount on the side , i love cutting timber so i recon milling will be good , im not really worried if i dont cut fast as long a its done and safely , B/i brother inlaw , ive been looking for a 325 rim for the 757 but cant seem to find one , so maybe you might and im sure a Archer chain i got quoted for in semi skip , thought ripping chain would be too much for my saw , dont want to cook it
Ive also got a 20'' bar
And quoted $35 for 98dl 3/8 058 Archer chain

I hope you find that it is big enough for you, just remember chainsaw mill shortens a saws life.

For a sprocket, should be a standard spline rim sprocket on saw not spur?

For a 9 tooth rim from gb, part number should be

GBJ9L7

I buy ordinary chain and grind the tooth angle from 25/30 down to the 10° I mentioned. Semi skip is not a bad idea.