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Archer .325 chain for milling

peter92

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I hope you find that it is big enough for you, just remember chainsaw mill shortens a saws life.

For a sprocket, should be a standard spline rim sprocket on saw not spur?

For a 9 tooth rim from gb, part number should be

GBJ9L7

I buy ordinary chain and grind the tooth angle from 25/30 down to the 10° I mentioned. Semi skip is not a bad idea.
That part number is for 7 tooth, http://coonasawchain.com.au/shop/item/gbj9l7 but then theres this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rim-Sprocke...-Tooth-Standard-7-Spline-GBJ9L7-/121605151251

im hoping to have a 056 to rebuild , that should be big enough
Can i run a 9 tooth on the 757
Peter
 

Iron.and.bark

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That part number is for 7 tooth, http://coonasawchain.com.au/shop/item/gbj9l7 but then theres this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rim-Sprocke...-Tooth-Standard-7-Spline-GBJ9L7-/121605151251

im hoping to have a 056 to rebuild , that should be big enough
Can i run a 9 tooth on the 757
Peter

The seven tooth is the spline side, far as I know you can not get smaller than 9 tooth in a standard spline. Part number is correct from gb's web page. First link is in error.

Have milled when I had to make do with a 68cc dolmar and a 9 tooth. Cut about 20" thick, worked but not ideal.
 

peter92

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The seven tooth is the spline side, far as I know you can not get smaller than 9 tooth in a standard spline. Part number is correct from gb's web page. First link is in error.

Have milled when I had to make do with a 68cc dolmar and a 9 tooth. Cut about 20" thick, worked but not ideal.
ok thanks for that info
can i ask you what would a shinny 577 be worth needing a set of rings , mate has one but i dont know what they are worth, he said make an offer on it
 

Iron.and.bark

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Honestly could not say, but if it needs new rings you aren't buying a functioning saw. Can you fix them yourself?

If he is a friend, the realm of a carton or 2 of beer would be my suggestion (or beverage of choice).
 

peter92

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Honestly could not say, but if it needs new rings you aren't buying a functioning saw. Can you fix them yourself?

If he is a friend, the realm of a carton or 2 of beer would be my suggestion (or beverage of choice).
yeah thats what i recon too , bottle rum i recon
thanks for the reply
and yes can fix it myself , no comp , chain break needs fixing , i recon its a rebuild job to be any good and a money maker
 

Brewz

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I am thinking of getting a GB 36" hard nose bar for milling with my Stihl 084
I am thinking I will start out with 3/8 Oregon ripping chain and change to .325 down the track.

My 50" bar is a 404 roller but I like the idea of a hard nose for milling.
What are your thoughts @Iron.and.bark ?
 

Iron.and.bark

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I am thinking of getting a GB 36" hard nose bar for milling with my Stihl 084
I am thinking I will start out with 3/8 Oregon ripping chain and change to .325 down the track.

My 50" bar is a 404 roller but I like the idea of a hard nose for milling.
What are your thoughts @Iron.and.bark ?

Honestly I have a hardnose bar simplely because I got a great deal on it :) it is a good bar though, very old stock gb.

While I have and do run .325 on the hardnose, from my experience I would preffer to be running a sprocket tip with .325 on a big bar because the drive links are shallower than a 3/8 or 404. Making it easier to slip off the bar.
 

CR888

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Hardnose bars are often sold really really cheap on EBay due to their lack of popularity. Their is atm NOS Carlton (made in Germany) ones in 25" for $75 delivered. I have seen a bunch of good deals for hardnose stuff.
 

peter92

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Honestly could not say, but if it needs new rings you aren't buying a functioning saw. Can you fix them yourself?

If he is a friend, the realm of a carton or 2 of beer would be my suggestion (or beverage of choice).
got the 577 off my mate , that he said wasnt working , new plug and fuel and its a runner , swapped my 041 for it
 

Iron.and.bark

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Nicely done peter, though I personally have a real soft spot for the 041's.

Cr888 - I must have 50+ 18" hardnose nos bars myself. Hard to shift that is for sure.
 

peter92

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Nicely done peter, though I personally have a real soft spot for the 041's.

Cr888 - I must have 50+ 18" hardnose nos bars myself. Hard to shift that is for sure.
yep me too , but needed a fuel tank and rear handle for my 757 , so using the handle off the 577
and then i,ll still be needing another handle
ive got a 041 SUPER here though
 

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Honestly I have a hardnose bar simplely because I got a great deal on it :) it is a good bar though, very old stock gb.

While I have and do run .325 on the hardnose, from my experience I would preffer to be running a sprocket tip with .325 on a big bar because the drive links are shallower than a 3/8 or 404. Making it easier to slip off the bar.

Yeah true, good point!

I have looked into GB pro tops and the longest bar I can get that will take 325 sprocket nose is a 32"
 

Iron.and.bark

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Yeah true, good point!

I have looked into GB pro tops and the longest bar I can get that will take 325 sprocket nose is a 32"

Pro top all take the same style sprocket nose as far as I know. GB Forresty lists upto 42" on the web page. Pretty sure you can mix and match in the Oregon bars aswell.

Just get started with what you have, that way you have a baseline. Besides not everyone is as stupid as myself and loves the hard work, saw dust and flies if Alaskan milling here.

As for those bars HV mount 0.58 have a few other styles aswell. Only 4 remaining stihl mount 24" .050 though :(

Peter - I would be milling with the super ;) that is if I could be sure of getting a spare p&c to be on the safe side. Never asked. Is the mill your b/I building an Alaskan style or one that runs on tracks.
 

peter92

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Pro top all take the same style sprocket nose as far as I know. GB Forresty lists upto 42" on the web page. Pretty sure you can mix and match in the Oregon bars aswell.

Just get started with what you have, that way you have a baseline. Besides not everyone is as stupid as myself and loves the hard work, saw dust and flies if Alaskan milling here.

As for those bars HV mount 0.58 have a few other styles aswell. Only 4 remaining stihl mount 24" .050 though :(

Peter - I would be milling with the super ;) that is if I could be sure of getting a spare p&c to be on the safe side. Never asked. Is the mill your b/I building an Alaskan style or one that runs on tracks.
its like the Alaskan style, i think http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRANBERG-AL...NSAW-SAW-MILL-SAWMILL-Chain-saw-/122032965241
might not be this but has sat in the box , unopened for 20 years , so will take pics of it when i get it
think he said it can do 900 wide , if that helps
 

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Lectro88

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Hello all.
I know this is an old thread. And I didn't read all posts yet.
But thought I'd give my take on Archer chain.
Now I've not milled yet. And
The chain I used was 404. Not 325.
Now Oregon skip link came on my 3120 and it cut like a wagon with square wheels on a gravel road.
Made 3-4 cuts and took it off.
Made up a 104 link loop. From new box never opened Archor.
And it cut smooth as ribbon (not skip link) regular 404 square chisel.
My first use of Archer. And got suckered in thinking it was Australian.
Nope japanese and sorry about that. I like to buy American, but I use Husqvarna and no apologies for that.
It was half price Oregon.
So not a bad experience for me yet with Archor.
Now I know I'm not comparing apples to apples going from skip to regular chain.
And I not throwing off on Oregon as I really like Oregon.
I personally don't care for skip link chain from my first experience. and Archor was acceptable so far.
My first 2 cents worth.

Cheers.
 

Philbert

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Now Oregon skip link came on my 3120 and it cut like a wagon with square wheels on a gravel road. Made 3-4 cuts and took it off.
Made up a 104 link loop. From new box never opened Archor.
And it cut smooth as ribbon (not skip link) regular 404 square chisel.
My first use of Archer. And got suckered in thinking it was Australian.
Nope japanese and sorry about that. I like to buy American, but I use Husqvarna and no apologies for that.

Skip tooth is always going to cut rougher, due to the spaces between the cutters.

Archer is manufactured in China. Company is based in Australia.

Philbert
 
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