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AuerX

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They're totally different saws. The 5800 is like at least 2 pounds lighter but also slower than a 372 in cut. It could be your only saw, it does cut trees well and if you're just doing cleanup and firewood your probably not going to notice a difference at the end of the day, the lighter weight makes up for the slower cutting. I have both I'll drop a tree with the 372 but immediately switch to my 5200 for everything under 8" on the tree, then switch back to the 372 for the big stuff. But honestly that's just for fun I could do it all with the 5200.

You think the 5800 could handle a 20"Hardnose bar for some occasional stump work and other trash type duties?

I dont mind if it's a little slow, I have enough sense to not overwork machinery.
 

Leafy

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Probably. I have never used a hard nose bar, but my worked over 5200 will run a 20" 3/8 bar buried in hardwood as long as you just let it self feed and don't dog in.
 

Czed

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6 tree's took out my neighbors cattle fence.
It's a mess.1571694617873413923613335080568.jpg
Ran a few tanks through the 272 popup saw this evening.
All chinese except a caber and a oem wrist pin bearing.
I've cut a lot the last couple year's with this one.
Motoseal no base gasket.20191021_174128.jpg 20191021_174109.jpg
 

Czed

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and that last picture is why I live in Vermont...............
I can send you some we have plenty
And more rattlesnakes than ever.
 

thesawincanada

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You mean completely remove this thing? No disadvantage?
I removed the Dirko. Checked if it’s flat. Laying tight agains the case. This small rubber guide for the tube was mounted the wrong direction. Put the curved side to the inside of the case.
Pump is running with 3 full turns out.
No oil spraying from the front. But a lot of oil coming out of the case. Below the bar. Behind the bar. In the Front near the Spike. And a lot of oil running back the Oiler Tube back inside the clutch area. Then running out of the bottom there.
But...as far as I can see there’s enough oil on chain and inside the bar.
Strange.
Intake pipe from tank to oil pump seeps I had the same problem so I removed the rubber hose in tank cleaned with brake clean used anirobic sealer on inside of tube to tank and outside to oil pump. Just a little bit. No more oil leaking. I can place the saw any where now. Before it leaked like a stuck pig. Especially when temperature is hot out. Now no puddle or drop
 

Leafy

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Interesting. I just started emptying mine after use.
 

thesawincanada

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It was such a bad leaker, big issue for me. Must be a mechanics thing oil leaks. And to boot was an embarrassment when I show the saw to people with oil globing out. Now I have to say very happy after the fix. I used the permitex red anirobic sealer. Looks like red jell same stuff used in automotive to seal diff cases or trans together. Hope this helps. I’ve built 5 farmer tech 372s they all had the bar oil leak before the fix.
 

Heliot

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Intake pipe from tank to oil pump seeps I had the same problem so I removed the rubber hose in tank cleaned with brake clean used anirobic sealer on inside of tube to tank and outside to oil pump. Just a little bit. No more oil leaking. I can place the saw any where now. Before it leaked like a stuck pig. Especially when temperature is hot out. Now no puddle or drop

Did exactly the same on mine. No more leaking issues. But...it was leaking through the oiltank vent. Replace the vent and mounted it with a small amount of Dirko. We‘ll see if it works like I hope. [emoji2957]
 

Nutball

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Can someone recommend a cheap 365 carb that they have had good experience with?
 

Czed

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20191201_135257.jpghandfiled lgx 24" been cutting
storm damage20191201_132312.jpg anybody else using their china saws?
 

Leafy

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I used mine with the 390 carb. Only thing I don't like is that it goes gug gug gug when you let of the throttle like a high strung moto. And when it warm it likes to stall at idle after restarting it for the first few cuts. Otherwise runs great and 4 strokes out of cut. I do notice some carbon around the oem husky decomp but I think it's been like that.
 

Derf

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Can anyone here with a Chinese 372xp clone take an up close pic of their serial plate at the front of the saw. At first on their website I thought the case came without them. But I see so many pictures floating around with of clones with a black tag ther I want to know what they say... and if they are all identical, or if they have some variation in serial numbers.
 

Nutball

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I think they are the same. I didn't pay too much attention, but I remember checking that. I've had around 5-7 with the tag, and one other that I'm not sure had a tag. The rivets wer fake/printed on.

The only china saw I've been using is my 660.

I bought the $13 carb off ebay, and it looks a bit better than a FT 395 carb I got. I haven't tried it yet, just keeping it around to see what it could fit.
 

D B Cooper

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was using my huztl 372 kit saw today noodling up some big oak rounds so I could lift them into the truck. Saw kept acting like it was going lean after a cut,rpm up would not idle . Found the idle screw was walking in during the cut,hence the fast idle speed.
went to the nearest pine tree ,scraped off some gooey sap ,coated the threads and some in the screw hole. Did the trick,kept the screw from wandering. Then I was able to get a good tune on the carb.Ran great rest of the day.
 

Spike60

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was using my huztl 372 kit saw today noodling up some big oak rounds so I could lift them into the truck. Saw kept acting like it was going lean after a cut,rpm up would not idle . Found the idle screw was walking in during the cut,hence the fast idle speed.
went to the nearest pine tree ,scraped off some gooey sap ,coated the threads and some in the screw hole. Did the trick,kept the screw from wandering. Then I was able to get a good tune on the carb.Ran great rest of the day.

That is cool. You get extra points for that bit of in-the-field engineering.
 
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