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Spike60

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I tweaked as I said and it runs fine...a very strong saw. Will absolutely roast any stocker 372 regardless of origin. For the money & time spent, one of the best "simple tools" builds I've done; when you factor the apparent reliability to this point in time. And something along these lines of blending the 52 mm hyway to the bones of a 372xt is a much better approach than taking one of those morphedites back to stock in my most humble opinion. :) If for no other reason than to save the bottom end from that big jack hammer of a piston. :) ( THIS will be interesting! )

You looking for trouble fella?

Let me refer you to the video we did last winter where my XT build was only a half second behind your turkey roaster hyway saw. Was much easier to start as opposed to your saw which "jackhammered" your shoulder when pulling the rope. Want me to bring it with me tomorrow and we can compare them again? Oh, wait a minute. Your saw isn't running. :)
 

Heliot

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Maybe the oil pipe is pinched, or kinked. I know that the farmertec case I have would not take the OEM tube, it was to short. I can't comment on the rest of issue as it is still a work in progress. Building a 362 that had a broke case. OEM crank, piston, cylinder, and other parts and pieces. My saw collection has taken back seat to my mustang addiction. had this problem longer than CAD.

Without bar you can see that a lot of oil coming out of the oilchannel. So this works.
Bar and chain are full of oil!
But..I only tested it in the air instead of in the wood.
Let’s see what happens inside the first wood. [emoji51]
 

Czed

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You looking for trouble fella?

Let me refer you to the video we did last winter where my XT build was only a half second behind your turkey roaster hyway saw. Was much easier to start as opposed to your saw which "jackhammered" your shoulder when pulling the rope. Want me to bring it with me tomorrow and we can compare them again? Oh, wait a minute. Your saw isn't running. :)
Is that why he gave it to a logger to run?
Because he couldn't start it.

I'll have to say my 268/372 popup piston saws
Are the easiest starting 70cc saws
I've ever run
And they are near 190 comp.
 

afleetcommand

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After a while with no air filter it got a lot easier to pull over....and it does run :) But even in its "saw dust lubed" state, it would probably out run spikes xtorq...:) The reason Spike's 372 xt runs as fast as it does is because its sucking air in the pto side bearing....how it gets the "RPM's"
 

Czed

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After a while with no air filter it got a lot easier to pull over....and it does run :) But even in its "saw dust lubed" state, it would probably out run spikes xtorq...:)
Nobody likes a xt
Nobody i know at least.
I bought one of the closeout johnny 2166
Off ebay
Normally i wouldn't have a xt
Dj on here ported it
I couldn't stand it stock.
It's a fine running saw now.
 

qurotro

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Is that why he gave it to a logger to run?
Because he couldn't start it.

I'll have to say my 268/372 popup piston saws
Are the easiest starting 70cc saws
I've ever run
And they are near 190 comp.
It's just me or not, i found out husky turns easier by pulling the starter rope that stihl. Even my 288 turns easier than 461, both 150 ish compression.
 

AlfA01

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It's just me or not, i found out husky turns easier by pulling the starter rope that stihl. Even my 288 turns easier than 461, both 150 ish compression.

It's the Stihl decomp. They pop closed when you look at the starter, whereas the Husky holds out until there's some fire in the cylinder. :D

I've started putting Huksy decomps on most of my ported saws.
 

Czed

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It's the Stihl decomp. They pop closed when you look at the starter, whereas the Husky holds out until there's some fire in the cylinder. :D

I've started putting Huksy decomps on most of my ported saws.
These are china clone decomps
Not oem.
 

Czed

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Adam gots clone 288 and 461?
I have 10-12 china clone decompression valves in saws
They all work.
The 268 and 272 popup pistons in my 372 clones
Are the easiest starting 70cc saws
I've ever used.
 

AlfA01

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I have 10-12 china clone decompression valves in saws
They all work.
The 268 and 272 popup pistons in my 372 clones
Are the easiest starting 70cc saws
I've ever used.

Awesome. I was taking the chance to tease about the Stihl decomps. I got bit by my 660 and I started replacing them on my ported saws.
 

qurotro

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It's the Stihl decomp. They pop closed when you look at the starter, whereas the Husky holds out until there's some fire in the cylinder. :D

I've started putting Huksy decomps on most of my ported saws.
Thinking of putting some braze to the decom head preserve the decom look while disable the decom.
Adam gots clone 288 and 461?
Nope. Mines are genuine stuff. Hutzl don't sell here, so I don't really like that company.
 

taplinhill

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Not to derail the thread, but since we are talking about x=torqs and decomps....... I have a 2172 that runs good (for an x-torq) and starts easily without using the decomp, hot or cold. The problem is starting it with the decomp. On a cold start it floods easily and on a hot start it takes several hard pulls, and if you don't pull it real hard it won't start when hot. Pop the decomp out and it will start on one pull. I've rebuilt the carb (it needed it for other reasons) and I've messed with the adjustment with little improvement. I got it so it would start better, but not good, and then it ran like crap because it was too rich. Compression is 160 psi. My solution thus far is not using the decomp, but I'm not sure if there is any underlying problem that I am missing and could possible harm the saw. Has anyone else seen anything like this?
 

huskyboy

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Not to derail the thread, but since we are talking about x=torqs and decomps....... I have a 2172 that runs good (for an x-torq) and starts easily without using the decomp, hot or cold. The problem is starting it with the decomp. On a cold start it floods easily and on a hot start it takes several hard pulls, and if you don't pull it real hard it won't start when hot. Pop the decomp out and it will start on one pull. I've rebuilt the carb (it needed it for other reasons) and I've messed with the adjustment with little improvement. I got it so it would start better, but not good, and then it ran like crap because it was too rich. Compression is 160 psi. My solution thus far is not using the decomp, but I'm not sure if there is any underlying problem that I am missing and could possible harm the saw. Has anyone else seen anything like this?
I just plug the decomp on the xt saws with the plug they sell. Using the decomp on them hasn’t worked well for me on hot starts either.
 

afleetcommand

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Not to derail the thread, but since we are talking about x=torqs and decomps....... I have a 2172 that runs good (for an x-torq) and starts easily without using the decomp, hot or cold. The problem is starting it with the decomp. On a cold start it floods easily and on a hot start it takes several hard pulls, and if you don't pull it real hard it won't start when hot. Pop the decomp out and it will start on one pull. I've rebuilt the carb (it needed it for other reasons) and I've messed with the adjustment with little improvement. I got it so it would start better, but not good, and then it ran like crap because it was too rich. Compression is 160 psi. My solution thus far is not using the decomp, but I'm not sure if there is any underlying problem that I am missing and could possible harm the saw. Has anyone else seen anything like this?
Not sure if its relevant, (spike will know ), I found there are a couple of carb and ignition upgrades that change the low speed and starting manners of those X-torq's. Not certain of the years they were introduced, I knew about the ignition ( timing curve change & delivers spark at a lower RPM ), but didn't know about the carb until I started doing those "gutting the X-torq intake" mods and also blending Xptorq carbs to 42mm OE style cylinder builds. There was a visible change in the throttle plates. And the best thing I can say is the current issue ignition and carb will make an old one have BETTER manners. :)
 

huskyboy

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I don’t like the XT’s when they are completely gutted. Makes them eat fuel and makes the already sensitive idle worse. I only took the division out of the filter holder on one I have here so a little spit back gets in on the strato side. The other one I left 100% completely intact strato.
 
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Spike60

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Now that Huztl is selling a version of the XT, it's no longer off topic to talk about them here. As much as it pains me to agree with Walt, I'd say that an OE 52mm model would have made more sense in the line up. Took me a while to warm up to the XT's myself as far as playing with them goes. Comfortable with them now, so they are an accepted member of the 372 family for me.

Starting: The original deco dropped the compression too much. Likely what's going on with Eric's. Especially bad on a new saw that wasn't broken in. Easier to pull, didn't equate to easier to start. We just told guys to not use the deco. But some older guys needed it. Many saws came in flooded. A weak pull, combined with the early deco could produce a weak initial firing of the saw that the operator wouldn't hear. Then they'd keep pulling it with the choke out. They'd put the saw on the counter with a soaked muffler and the choke lever still out. How many times did you pull it with the choke out? "At least 20" So, some of this is just people being stupid and making it worse. Few years ago they switched to a deco with a smaller hole that didn't drop the compression as much, and we rarely see this problem anymore. It's a $35 deco if you buy that specific part, but any deco or the plug will work.

There have been some carb and coil changes to address this, and the idle issue. Earliest saws were difficult to set the idle, Only the first year or 2. A coil and carb combo at that time mostly solved the problem. Couple more coil changes with the latest being WAY better in all respects. It's not just spark or no spark with these coils. The newest XT coil has different start and advance curves. Saws run better in every way. Start, idle and acceleration all improved. Walt has used them on OE saws, and he can chime in here on that. Some of this coil technology is on the new 550M2 and why it has no deco. Same for the 450 II that has been out a while. The coils fire at a lower RPM. On the 450, I think they went from needing 1400 to 700 for the coil to fire. This is a big deal for people who have a tough time snapping the rope.

The intake gutting thing? I think if you're going to gut the filter holder, you have to do the boot as well. And then knife edge the intake port. I guess do the whole shebang or leave it alone. The only thing I leave in is the divider in the carb. Pulling that allowed the throttle plate to go past center, and that's where I noticed the worst fuel usage. But I'm just playing with these things vs working with them like Mason is. I'm not really watching it closely enough to say much about it either way. But I've done a few of these for local guys and have not heard any fuel gripes.

I know this post is dragging on, typical of me. :) But this is the best 372 thread anywhere combining OEM and AM info.

So, a last item. The XT that runs with Walt's Turkey Roaster, was kind of a mistake build. I decided to cut the cylinder skirts down to the transfers like we do on the OE's. Ooops, that exposed the strato cutout in the piston. Figured I ruined the jug, and tossed it on the shelf for 2 years. Was a well used top end, so who cares. Last Fall a wiped 365XT came in. (With a fine bottom end that is apprently so rare 3 hours upstate.)

Decided to stick that "ruined" top end on there for kicks and see what would happen. The dopey thing runs really strong! Need to study that a little more and pay attention to fuel use, and compare to a 2166 build that still has the stock cylinder skirts. (Both saws have the same gasket delete, muffler mod and gutted intake recipe otherwise. )
 

Czed

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Now that Huztl is selling a version of the XT, it's no longer off topic to talk about them here. As much as it pains me to agree with Walt, I'd say that an OE 52mm model would have made more sense in the line up. Took me a while to warm up to the XT's myself as far as playing with them goes. Comfortable with them now, so they are an accepted member of the 372 family for me.

Starting: The original deco dropped the compression too much. Likely what's going on with Eric's. Especially bad on a new saw that wasn't broken in. Easier to pull, didn't equate to easier to start. We just told guys to not use the deco. But some older guys needed it. Many saws came in flooded. A weak pull, combined with the early deco could produce a weak initial firing of the saw that the operator wouldn't hear. Then they'd keep pulling it with the choke out. They'd put the saw on the counter with a soaked muffler and the choke lever still out. How many times did you pull it with the choke out? "At least 20" So, some of this is just people being stupid and making it worse. Few years ago they switched to a deco with a smaller hole that didn't drop the compression as much, and we rarely see this problem anymore. It's a $35 deco if you buy that specific part, but any deco or the plug will work.

There have been some carb and coil changes to address this, and the idle issue. Earliest saws were difficult to set the idle, Only the first year or 2. A coil and carb combo at that time mostly solved the problem. Couple more coil changes with the latest being WAY better in all respects. It's not just spark or no spark with these coils. The newest XT coil has different start and advance curves. Saws run better in every way. Start, idle and acceleration all improved. Walt has used them on OE saws, and he can chime in here on that. Some of this coil technology is on the new 550M2 and why it has no deco. Same for the 450 II that has been out a while. The coils fire at a lower RPM. On the 450, I think they went from needing 1400 to 700 for the coil to fire. This is a big deal for people who have a tough time snapping the rope.

The intake gutting thing? I think if you're going to gut the filter holder, you have to do the boot as well. And then knife edge the intake port. I guess do the whole shebang or leave it alone. The only thing I leave in is the divider in the carb. Pulling that allowed the throttle plate to go past center, and that's where I noticed the worst fuel usage. But I'm just playing with these things vs working with them like Mason is. I'm not really watching it closely enough to say much about it either way. But I've done a few of these for local guys and have not heard any fuel gripes.

I know this post is dragging on, typical of me. :) But this is the best 372 thread anywhere combining OEM and AM info.

So, a last item. The XT that runs with Walt's Turkey Roaster, was kind of a mistake build. I decided to cut the cylinder skirts down to the transfers like we do on the OE's. Ooops, that exposed the strato cutout in the piston. Figured I ruined the jug, and tossed it on the shelf for 2 years. Was a well used top end, so who cares. Last Fall a wiped 365XT came in. (With a fine bottom end that is apprently so rare 3 hours upstate.)

Decided to stick that "ruined" top end on there for kicks and see what would happen. The dopey thing runs really strong! Need to study that a little more and pay attention to fuel use, and compare to a 2166 build that still has the stock cylinder skirts. (Both saws have the same gasket delete, muffler mod and gutted intake recipe otherwise. )
I never was a xt fan they just didn't make good
Power like oe saws do
The 2166 dj ported for is the strongest one I've run.
It's a great falling and blocking saw and fuel efficient compared to all the bastard 372s i have.
I don't pass up a deal on a xt
I just put a oe style topend on them usually.
 

Czed

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Now that Huztl is selling a version of the XT, it's no longer off topic to talk about them here. As much as it pains me to agree with Walt, I'd say that an OE 52mm model would have made more sense in the line up. Took me a while to warm up to the XT's myself as far as playing with them goes. Comfortable with them now, so they are an accepted member of the 372 family for me.

Starting: The original deco dropped the compression too much. Likely what's going on with Eric's. Especially bad on a new saw that wasn't broken in. Easier to pull, didn't equate to easier to start. We just told guys to not use the deco. But some older guys needed it. Many saws came in flooded. A weak pull, combined with the early deco could produce a weak initial firing of the saw that the operator wouldn't hear. Then they'd keep pulling it with the choke out. They'd put the saw on the counter with a soaked muffler and the choke lever still out. How many times did you pull it with the choke out? "At least 20" So, some of this is just people being stupid and making it worse. Few years ago they switched to a deco with a smaller hole that didn't drop the compression as much, and we rarely see this problem anymore. It's a $35 deco if you buy that specific part, but any deco or the plug will work.

There have been some carb and coil changes to address this, and the idle issue. Earliest saws were difficult to set the idle, Only the first year or 2. A coil and carb combo at that time mostly solved the problem. Couple more coil changes with the latest being WAY better in all respects. It's not just spark or no spark with these coils. The newest XT coil has different start and advance curves. Saws run better in every way. Start, idle and acceleration all improved. Walt has used them on OE saws, and he can chime in here on that. Some of this coil technology is on the new 550M2 and why it has no deco. Same for the 450 II that has been out a while. The coils fire at a lower RPM. On the 450, I think they went from needing 1400 to 700 for the coil to fire. This is a big deal for people who have a tough time snapping the rope.

The intake gutting thing? I think if you're going to gut the filter holder, you have to do the boot as well. And then knife edge the intake port. I guess do the whole shebang or leave it alone. The only thing I leave in is the divider in the carb. Pulling that allowed the throttle plate to go past center, and that's where I noticed the worst fuel usage. But I'm just playing with these things vs working with them like Mason is. I'm not really watching it closely enough to say much about it either way. But I've done a few of these for local guys and have not heard any fuel gripes.

I know this post is dragging on, typical of me. :) But this is the best 372 thread anywhere combining OEM and AM info.

So, a last item. The XT that runs with Walt's Turkey Roaster, was kind of a mistake build. I decided to cut the cylinder skirts down to the transfers like we do on the OE's. Ooops, that exposed the strato cutout in the piston. Figured I ruined the jug, and tossed it on the shelf for 2 years. Was a well used top end, so who cares. Last Fall a wiped 365XT came in. (With a fine bottom end that is apprently so rare 3 hours upstate.)

Decided to stick that "ruined" top end on there for kicks and see what would happen. The dopey thing runs really strong! Need to study that a little more and pay attention to fuel use, and compare to a 2166 build that still has the stock cylinder skirts. (Both saws have the same gasket delete, muffler mod and gutted intake recipe otherwise. )
i hope you have a speech to text
That's a lot of typing.
 
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Czed

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The hyway xt popup looks interesting
s-l300.jpg

I have a cylinder might try one if i find a builder bottom end.
 
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