Any Chinese chainsaw and chinese parts discussion

[Spike60]

I like the Hin-sav-er-kwuh, it was my first Chinese 365, not the strongest, but good in its own way.

Local police have an 8x10 card with about 8 of those Chinese variations of Husqvarna on it, and it's now a standard part of their field sobriety test.

"Here, read this out loud."

Busted!

 

[Heliot]

I have a small question concerning the Oiler.
Maybe someone has a tip for me.
Everything seems tight and no more oil leaking...I thought.
Today went into the garage. Baby on the bench and a leak below. [emoji22]
Disassembled sprocket to have a look behind.
Now the oil comes from the Oiler. There’s a plug on the side fixing the pump piston. There the oil leaked out. Seems that this plug doesn’t hold well. [emoji36]
I „glued“ in the pump to the oil tube. So a removal won’t be easy. [emoji31]
How can i fix this damn plug issue?

 

[Czed]

I have a small question concerning the Oiler.
Maybe someone has a tip for me.
Everything seems tight and no more oil leaking...I thought.
Today went into the garage. Baby on the bench and a leak below. [emoji22]
Disassembled sprocket to have a look behind.
Now the oil comes from the Oiler. There’s a plug on the side fixing the pump piston. There the oil leaked out. Seems that this plug doesn’t hold well. [emoji36]
I „glued“ in the pump to the oil tube. So a removal won’t be easy. [emoji31]
How can i fix this damn plug issue?

I have 7 of these china 372 clones
One bleeds off oil after a few weeks.
Run it hard and see if it improves.
Or Swap it out for another pump
I haven't had the issue your having.
A 028 stihl i had
Lived laying on it's recoil
I couldn't get it to stop leaking
So i layed it on it's side when storing it.

 

[Heliot]

Ok. I’ll try thanks!
Maybe I put a bit Dirko on it from the outside. [emoji2957]

 

[taplinhill]

Local police have an 8x10 card with about 8 of those Chinese variations of Husqvarna on it, and it's now a standard part of their field sobriety test.

"Here, read this out loud."

Busted!

Most people can't spell or say Husqvarna. They used to have a radio commercial on how to pronounce their name. It went something like, Husk, like in corn, Var, like in varnish, and Na, like in na, I don't want any other saw. That's how I learned.

I joked one time when someone asked me what kind of saw I owned. I told them I had some Johnson-reds, a few Husky-varnies, a couple of Stills, and an odd Poland and Muck-a-lick. They, like most, did not understand my sense of humor.

 

[Nutball]

I've heard John's Red and Johnson-red.

Nearly EVERYBODY says Husk-A-varna

 

[afleetcommand]

I've heard John's Red and Johnson-red.

Nearly EVERYBODY says Husk-A-varna

Yup from the motorcycle community....Hoosk a var na with an a was originally humor but just ...stuck.

 

[taplinhill]

Part of the problem is that not everyone wants that AM filter that comes with it. (I don't)

The package idea might be good for some folks. But I think there's a broader market for the cover by itself.

Your wish is granted:

https://www.huztl.net/Air-Filter-Cover-For-Husqvarna-362-365-372-372xp-Chainsaw-p748145.html

It's not as cheap as the low top, but will save you a little over the kit.

 

[Czed]

I like the Huztl handles better but the cases off those saws better than the other AM cases. I did get a "test" saw back today after 8 months with a logger running it as the primary saw. He thought it was going lean...high idle..and with his OEM XT's that would mean the PTO bearing and seals. SO expecting the worst..started the "debug" process. Turns out like a few of my 372XT/OE blends the throttle cable was a bit short. And kept it from closing....filed on that little white throttle cable connector a bit and problem solved. Why is this relevant? Cases...Huztl. Top end 52mm Hyway popup. And full time use didn't kill the hard parts. That's significant. Case a way to salvage OEM XT junkers? Blend with OE boot and hyway top end? AND a way to take any of those pre-built 372's from Huztl to the "next" level of performance w/o a machine shop..

The hyway bb popups I've built using the whole
Cylinder kits have been
Very strong runner's
I run 7 pin but these will handle a 8 pin.
Need to try the 50mm popup version in a farmertec
Or oem cylinder.
I never liked the xt but enough people do to keep them going.
And like you said plenty of builder's out there
With bad case's.
Have you pulled the cylinder yet?
Curious if it's able to accept a oem xt cylinder.

 

[Heliot]

Do you have any advise how to get the barplate steady to the case without any gap? Even with my poor mod there’s more oil behind it than into the bar. [emoji36][emoji2961]

 

[afleetcommand]

Have you pulled the cylinder yet?
Curious if it's able to accept a oem xt cylinder.

To sort this out a bit.....In the test program have a g372xt that I just did a couple of video's on....its basically as it came out of the box. Looks to be a good starting point to bolt on better top ends if you like those goofy square handles...( I don't ) as it has the larger carb. The saw I got back and was referencing here was built on the Huztl/Farmertec cases and has that slightly off set bar oil slot as the g372 ( not the xp or xt ) have. It has those cases, the "better" rounded handle with the red throttle cable, a Hyway 52mm popup top end. Figured "Matt the logger" could kill it. So did he. BUT looks to be fine. Even though it spent a little time w/o an air filter... I tweaked as I said and it runs fine...a very strong saw. Will absolutely roast any stocker 372 regardless of origin. For the money & time spent, one of the best "simple tools" builds I've done; when you factor the apparent reliability to this point in time. And something along these lines of blending the 52 mm hyway to the bones of a 372xt is a much better approach than taking one of those morphedites back to stock in my most humble opinion. If for no other reason than to save the bottom end from that big jack hammer of a piston. ( THIS will be interesting! )

 

[Czed]

To sort this out a bit.....In the test program have a g372xt that I just did a couple of video's on....its basically as it came out of the box. Looks to be a good starting point to bolt on better top ends if you like those goofy square handles...( I don't ) as it has the larger carb. The saw I got back and was referencing here was built on the Huztl/Farmertec cases and has that slightly off set bar oil slot as the g372 ( not the xp or xt ) have. It has those cases, the "better" rounded handle with the red throttle cable, a Hyway 52mm popup top end. Figured "Matt the logger" could kill it. So did he. BUT looks to be fine. Even though it spent a little time w/o an air filter... I tweaked as I said and it runs fine...a very strong saw. Will absolutely roast any stocker 372 regardless of origin. For the money & time spent, one of the best "simple tools" builds I've done; when you factor the apparent reliability to this point in time. And something along these lines of blending the 52 mm hyway to the bones of a 372xt is a much better approach than taking one of those morphedites back to stock in my most humble opinion. If for no other reason than to save the bottom end from that big jack hammer of a piston. ( THIS will be interesting! )

I'm curious about the xts durability
Also
My oe style vibrate a bit more than oem
Not significant but it's there.
But with a xt slug it'll probably be more noticeable.

 

[Heliot]

[QUOTE="The saw I got back and was referencing here was built on the Huztl/Farmertec cases and has that slightly off set bar oil slot as the g372 ( not the xp or xt ) have. [/QUOTE]

Mine also has this bar oil slot problem. How did you fix it?

 

[Czed]

Do you have any advise how to get the barplate steady to the case without any gap? Even with my poor mod there’s more oil behind it than into the bar. [emoji36][emoji2961]

Hammer it on a flat surface or bence vice it.
Or replace it.
I've run a lot of saws without bar plates
That's how i got them.

 

[Heliot]

You mean completely remove this thing? No disadvantage?
I removed the Dirko. Checked if it’s flat. Laying tight agains the case. This small rubber guide for the tube was mounted the wrong direction. Put the curved side to the inside of the case.
Pump is running with 3 full turns out.
No oil spraying from the front. But a lot of oil coming out of the case. Below the bar. Behind the bar. In the Front near the Spike. And a lot of oil running back the Oiler Tube back inside the clutch area. Then running out of the bottom there.
But...as far as I can see there’s enough oil on chain and inside the bar.
Strange.

 

[Nutball]

Might need to trim the rubber seal around the end of the pipe. I thought the bar would crush it in place when tightened.

 

[decableguy2000]

Maybe the oil pipe is pinched, or kinked. I know that the farmertec case I have would not take the OEM tube, it was to short. I can't comment on the rest of issue as it is still a work in progress. Building a 362 that had a broke case. OEM crank, piston, cylinder, and other parts and pieces. My saw collection has taken back seat to my mustang addiction. had this problem longer than CAD.

 

[Czed]

You mean completely remove this thing? No disadvantage?
I removed the Dirko. Checked if it’s flat. Laying tight agains the case. This small rubber guide for the tube was mounted the wrong direction. Put the curved side to the inside of the case.
Pump is running with 3 full turns out.
No oil spraying from the front. But a lot of oil coming out of the case. Below the bar. Behind the bar. In the Front near the Spike. And a lot of oil running back the Oiler Tube back inside the clutch area. Then running out of the bottom there.
But...as far as I can see there’s enough oil on chain and inside the bar.
Strange.

Take a pic

 

[Spike60]

Your wish is granted:

https://www.huztl.net/Air-Filter-Cover-For-Husqvarna-362-365-372-372xp-Chainsaw-p748145.html

It's not as cheap as the low top, but will save you a little over the kit.

Very good; going to try a couple of those. OEM retail on that part is $24; my cost being $15. Combined with their cylinder cover a complete top assembly is about $8 from Huztl vs $85 for the OEM. Huge savings there. I know we're all into the piston and cylinder thing, but all the stuff you need to wrap around the saw can add up real quick.

 

[Czed]

Very good; going to try a couple of those. OEM retail on that part is $24; my cost being $15. Combined with their cylinder cover a complete top assembly is about $8 from Huztl vs $85 for the OEM. Huge savings there. I know we're all into the piston and cylinder thing, but all the stuff you need to wrap around the saw can add up real quick.

I know guy's that toss the air filters
Don't run any
Don't ask me why.