High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

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Czed

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I fairly recently put one of this together, runs great, only issues I am having is the clutch seems to slip under heavier load, if I let it rpm in the cut it’s fine, but if it dogs in, chain stops but the engine still pulling, is this common? And the chain break dose work the greatest, it is functional just isn’t holding 100%. Do you think it is a clutch or drum issue?
If you haven't fix it yet
These are on sale today hereH37365-2T.jpg 6.99 deal of the day.
 

Terry Syd

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I wonder what the difference is. A stronger spring with more pre-load on the weights will give it a later engagement RPM. However, it takes a greater mass/weight of the shoes to give it more friction against the clutch drum to deal with more torque.

Perhaps it is a coefficient of friction between the two metals of the shoes and the drum.

I don't have a clue. Maybe we could get somebody on the forum do an article on clutches (springs, shoes, drums) and how to modify them for different applications.
 

Spike60

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Likely one or both are a little out of spec and the clutch/drum just aren't mating like they should. Workshop manuals do have sections on measuring clutches for wear. I've seen some AM drums flair out a bit, or have a pre-mature wear strip forming on the inside.
 

Czed

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Likely one or both are a little out of spec and the clutch/drum just aren't mating like they should. Workshop manuals do have sections on measuring clutches for wear. I've seen some AM drums flair out a bit, or have a pre-mature wear strip forming on the inside.
Are the oem pricey for a 372?
If not i might get one to have as backup.
 

Terry Syd

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Likely one or both are a little out of spec and the clutch/drum just aren't mating like they should.

I've had that and have used valve grinding paste to 'lap' them in. It is a pain in the butt to do, first a bit of coarse valve grinding compound, let it idle for a while, rev it, clean it off, then do it again - and again, etc. Then on to the fine compound. I always gave it a good rev before I stopped it to clean it off and re-apply some more compound.

Some after market clutches aren't worth all that trouble.

EDIT: Take a look at the wear in the drum. If the drum is out of round - you should just toss it, been there and done that.
 

Bigmac

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Thanks for the advice and the deal of the day heads up. My clutch seems to engage later, it works, but under heavy load it slips, not sure if the clutch is just a bum unit..the drum seems round, and the wear lines are even. I also only have a couple tanks of gas through it. It is almost like the springs are too stiff or the clutch doses have enough mass, they are cheap enough to replace. When I took it apart I did notice the Oiler leaking..that could be my problem, oil in the clutch
 

Terry Syd

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the drum seems round, and the wear lines are even.

Check the faces of the shoes. The reason I lapped a couple of clutches was the shoes didn't have full contact with the drum.

If they don't have full contact, then try the lapping trick. After you assemble the clutch with the lapping compound smeared around the drum, just let it IDLE.

The compound will take up the space between the drum and face of the shoe. It will tend to remove material from the high spots. You may have to place the chain on a piece of wood to keep it from moving while it is idling.
 

Czed

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I'll say again the china fuel and impulse
Need changed as soon as anyone
Buys a china saw.
This 372 i ran 2 tanks through last spring.
Drained fuel and oil.
Checked it today.
Fuel line split and these have a nipple
For a vent hose.
It was broke off.
Rubber boots I've never had a problem
With.
Rings and line's have failed several time's
Now.20180523_101729.jpg
 

Czed

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Fuel filters are secured on these
For a reason lol
Filters work good.20180523_102930.jpg
 

Czed

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I've seen guy's fight to get the muffler gasket assembly's
On husky's mainly they have trouble.
Just hang it vertical.
Bench or whatever.
20180523_121831.jpg
 

Leafy

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I think I got the *s-word parts jackpot from huztl. The gorilla that put the two halves of my case together to fit in the box didn't line the front dowel up and just hammered on it, this cracked the dowel hole and bulged up the case. I think it's going to leak bar oil but huztl keeps telling me to build it, I'm sure if I gob hondabond on it it'll seal.

The 52mm cylinder is *f-worded too. The area under and to the sides of the intake port are all pitted like deeper than the coating. They also missed a whole machine op on the part, the base where the gasket goes is still rough and the squish area is like W shaped. Like it's high near the cylinder wall then gets lower and then goes back up into the combustion chamber.

Huztl is being difficult to deal with.
 

Czed

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I think I got the *s-word parts jackpot from huztl. The gorilla that put the two halves of my case together to fit in the box didn't line the front dowel up and just hammered on it, this cracked the dowel hole and bulged up the case. I think it's going to leak bar oil but huztl keeps telling me to build it, I'm sure if I gob hondabond on it it'll seal.

The 52mm cylinder is *frenched too. The area under and to the sides of the intake port are all pitted like deeper than the coating. They also missed a whole machine op on the part, the base where the gasket goes is still rough and the squish area is like W shaped. Like it's high near the cylinder wall then gets lower and then goes back up into the combustion chamber.

Huztl is being difficult to deal with.
That sucks they are *a-holes to deal with
.Same here the last few orders
Like clockwork they missed
Shipping parts.
And would not send them separately
They want me to buy more parts
And they'll add what i already paid for
To the order.
The bigger and more successful they have gotten
The quality has gone downhill
I usually buy from hl
Ebay or arbortec
 

Leafy

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If they're a dick further I'll try and salvage what I have. Flat file the base area till its flat and mostly square and then put some sand paper on the piston to cut the squish band to a normal geometry. If the pitting makes it not seal I can get another cylinder from ebay in America for $40 shipped.

I do have a 272BB piston to use, did we decide if pop-up or machining the squish band was better with this?

Oh wow they want to give me back a whole 5 dollars if I try the cylinder
 
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Czed

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If they're a dick further I'll try and salvage what I have. Flat file the base area till its flat and mostly square and then put some sand paper on the piston to cut the squish band to a normal geometry. If the pitting makes it not seal I can get another cylinder from ebay in America for $40 shipped.

I do have a 272BB piston to use, did we decide if pop-up or machining the squish band was better with this?

Oh wow they want to give me back a whole 5 dollars if I try the cylinder
Mine are just popup piston only
I like them.
Someone might come along that cut the squish and base
I haven't
 

Leafy

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Mines probably so *f-worded up I'll have to do everything. I'll get it to the point where it at least cycles and I've got the base filed flatish and the squish area decent, then figure out exactly what it needs to work with the 272 piston.

I did notice that mine has a different fuel line than yours and a different fuel filter. The filter is more screen style and there's no wire or clamp on it. I did order a filter that looks like yours I might swap to. But I have aliexpress viton tubing on the way to use.

I wish someone make a build writeup with pictures on these like the stihls. Whenever I get stuck I end up having to go through that one guys youtube videos and skipping around till I find the thing he's working on.
 
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