Any Chinese chainsaw and chinese parts discussion

[farminkarman]

Open

Thanks! I’m gonna have to get a couple

 

[Czed]

Thanks! I’m gonna have to get a couple

For some reason the 268/272 am muffler's are not very durable
I've had a few come apart
I've started adding brazing around the welds on the halves.

 

[Czed]

No more neotec 2511s they are being discontinued
I paid 90.00 somewhere for mine eBay I think.

 

[ammoaddict]

No more neotec 2511s they are being discontinued View attachment 477076
I paid 90.00 somewhere for mine eBay I think.

I wonder why they discontinued them. They seemed to be very popular.

 

[4CornersPuddle]

Whew!! Just finished reading this entire thread, all 169 pages of entertainment. It has taken weeks to slog, breeze, crawl, slide through those virtual sheets of wisdom and silliness.
Czed, you win the prize for info, ingenuity, doggedness, passion for keeping me sittingon my butt avoiding the stuff I "should be doing". Hahaha!
Several others of you other clone saw aficianados are also right up there with Czed.
Thanks for all this.
One observation, correct me if I've misunderstood, is that several years ago was the "good old days" of clones, particularly the 372 copies. And quality of any one brand compared to another has rearranged itself over the years? Farmertec compared to Neotec, for instance?
Happy New Year of safe cutting and successful modding to all of you.

 

[hacskaroly]

One observation, correct me if I've misunderstood, is that several years ago was the "good old days" of clones, particularly the 372 copies.

From what I understand the ones labeled as "Hnsavrqua" or some messed up name variant like that are pretty good copies.

 

[ammoaddict]

From what I understand the ones labeled as "Hnsavrqua" or some messed up name variant like that are pretty good copies.

View attachment 479040

That's what have. Runs good but leaks bar oil like crazy.

 

[Ketchup]

From what I understand the ones labeled as "Hnsavrqua" or some messed up name variant like that are pretty good copies.

View attachment 479040

I don’t know if they are better, they were just very cheap and they mostly work. Quality varies widely in clone saws and no particular brand has changed that.

 

[hacskaroly]

I don’t know if they are better, they were just very cheap and they mostly work.

I was getting this from those here on the forum who had them and their responses. Because of what was said, if I was to get a clone, then it would have been one of the Hnsavrqua 372s.

 

[Ketchup]

I was getting this from those here on the forum who had them and their responses. Because of what was said, if I was to get a clone, then it would have been one of the Hnsavrqua 372s.

I hear you. Several people on here have had good experiences with them. That is a good sign.

But I’ve owned or worked on FT/Holzforma, NeoTech, Hnsvarqua, and I think a few other clone 372s. They all look very similar in manufacturing, if not from the same factories. I wouldn’t trust the decal to indicate quality.

The one exception is the Holzforma Pro versions come with a seemingly genuine Walbro carb (HD 58, IIRC).

 

[qurotro]

That's what have. Runs good but leaks bar oil like crazy.

Genuine 372 leaks bar oil anyway lol

 

[Maintenance Chief]

The muffler bolts vibrate out just like a real husqvarna too !!

 

[GMB74]

Redneck Machine Shop

This popped up on another Chinese Chainsaw board. While I would never advocate using these methods on a "real" (brand name) saw, they might be applicable to these cheaper machines. If it works, great. If not and it blows up, you are not out a lot of money. Buy another one and try again. If you can wade through this wall of text I hope you find it educational, or at least amusing:


You take a little black moly axle grease and finger paint your base and just touch the cylinder down on your piece of paper or better yet that cardboard from a 12 pack of Coke or aluminum soda can’s and mark your pattern out ! Then a razor blade tracing and your stencil will be made to transfer it into your scrap piece of 3/4” inch plywood and a 1x6 or 2x6 yellow pine or whatever else is around and glue and screw them down on your 4x4 or a couple 2x4’s so you can lock them down into your bench vice or screw them down onto the work bench! drill the 1/2” hole or two for the access of your jigsaw blade and jigsaw your plugs out! And 3M spray adhesive or rubber cement your 60 grit cutter sandpaper or 12o grit down and your 220 grit dressing sandpaper and just apply a light down pressure and spin your cylinder on your sandpaper and you’ll rip.025 thou off your cylinder base in a little 10 minute session! The cheapest Chinese piston with your 120 grit glued to it’s top and trimmed with a razor blade… two foot long piece’s of baling wire or a wire cloth’s hanger and bend those two in half even and then you’ll just wrap your piston pin and grab it with your vice grips and twist it around a half dozen times and make a drive shaft for your cordless drill! After a dozen revolution’s stop and check your progress and clean-out the sandpaper and keep double checking you measurements on your squish band area and take another layer! 60-120 cuts and the 320/500/800 finish will allow you to WD40 and a scotchbrite bad and polishing your squish band ring to glass! I just come over the 1/8th inch and will a couple layers or a little flat washer in the center and you’ll get a nice dome shape and you’ll actually be able to make a custom combustion chamber roof setup or match your angles to the popup piston or whatever you want with a couple homemade tools! You don’t need a machine shop to make a couple chainsaw engines run fantastic! It’s a lot easier and faster to do a dozen surely but it’s not absolutely required to make a fantastic engine build! I just grab those 6 inch spade bits for wood in the 3/4 to 1” inch sizes dirt cheap at a yard sale or something and drill a 14mm hole in the center underneath your shaft and run it around on the bench grinder and remove those rough or pointy outside sharp edges and cut them down into a spoon shaped driver that you can pop any piston pin through and use a cheap piston in your correct size and sand your squish band area down perfectly! So get to work fellas! You want a.025 thou squish band gap when you are finished… I just use a little piece of mig or fluxcore wire and when it’s stopping my gentle rotation attempt I’ll have just enough room for that Threebond 1184! Only! It’s $13 bucks per tube and you’ll actually also have a wicked good thread-locking compound that you simply drop a little puddle and just “tip” or dip and spin your last inch of threads and lay them on aluminum foil or waxed paper while you assemble your saw! it’ll make sure you never vibrate a single bolt loose … Yet! they will be easily removable when you want to work on your saw’s and remove the bolts! You just squeeze a little BB on the end of your tube and push the head of a 3 1/2 or 4” long inch deck screw on Phillips head screw down into the neck of your tube and you’ll re-seal your product air tight so you’ll be able to use it again in your future. You simply grab the head with your pliers and twist it out and you’ll be able to do your next saw project then repeat the same process and seal it back tight!You’ll get a dozen saw projects with your one $13 dollar tube! 65 Johnson Seahorse head gasket problem on your outboard motor or your air compressor gasket leaks are no problem either! .025 thou squish so you can build some carbon deposits and you’ll not have any contact and run strong! $20 bucks for a tube of 1184 and some sandpaper and scrap wood will do the job! A rubber suction cup valve lapper stuck to the top of your cylinder and your cordless drill will remove your cylinder base material like lightning fast! You gotta deglaze your cylinder bores and create your crosshatching with a little 320 ballhone just that bore size or smaller or a dishwashing sponge with the scotchbrite on one side and hot glue a 6-7” inch piece of 3/8’s wooden dowel rod into it’s center trimmed down to fit into your bore and a 1/2 sheet of 320 grit sandpaper and a slowly 15 rpm’s revolution and the little 3/8’s inch in and out action to cut into your walls and create a new crosshatching pattern and you’ll want a dinosaur juice conventional 2-stroke at 32:1 for a dozen tanks then you’ll be able to use your synthetic or synthetic blend oils so those new rings will actually cut their next new bore pathway into your cylinder walls!

 

[EFSM]

Redneck Machine Shop

This popped up on another Chinese Chainsaw board. While I would never advocate using these methods on a "real" (brand name) saw, they might be applicable to these cheaper machines. If it works, great. If not and it blows up, you are not out a lot of money. Buy another one and try again. If you can wade through this wall of text I hope you find it educational, or at least amusing:


You take a little black moly axle grease and finger paint your base and just touch the cylinder down on your piece of paper or better yet that cardboard from a 12 pack of Coke or aluminum soda can’s and mark your pattern out ! Then a razor blade tracing and your stencil will be made to transfer it into your scrap piece of 3/4” inch plywood and a 1x6 or 2x6 yellow pine or whatever else is around and glue and screw them down on your 4x4 or a couple 2x4’s so you can lock them down into your bench vice or screw them down onto the work bench! drill the 1/2” hole or two for the access of your jigsaw blade and jigsaw your plugs out! And 3M spray adhesive or rubber cement your 60 grit cutter sandpaper or 12o grit down and your 220 grit dressing sandpaper and just apply a light down pressure and spin your cylinder on your sandpaper and you’ll rip.025 thou off your cylinder base in a little 10 minute session! The cheapest Chinese piston with your 120 grit glued to it’s top and trimmed with a razor blade… two foot long piece’s of baling wire or a wire cloth’s hanger and bend those two in half even and then you’ll just wrap your piston pin and grab it with your vice grips and twist it around a half dozen times and make a drive shaft for your cordless drill! After a dozen revolution’s stop and check your progress and clean-out the sandpaper and keep double checking you measurements on your squish band area and take another layer! 60-120 cuts and the 320/500/800 finish will allow you to WD40 and a scotchbrite bad and polishing your squish band ring to glass! I just come over the 1/8th inch and will a couple layers or a little flat washer in the center and you’ll get a nice dome shape and you’ll actually be able to make a custom combustion chamber roof setup or match your angles to the popup piston or whatever you want with a couple homemade tools! You don’t need a machine shop to make a couple chainsaw engines run fantastic! It’s a lot easier and faster to do a dozen surely but it’s not absolutely required to make a fantastic engine build! I just grab those 6 inch spade bits for wood in the 3/4 to 1” inch sizes dirt cheap at a yard sale or something and drill a 14mm hole in the center underneath your shaft and run it around on the bench grinder and remove those rough or pointy outside sharp edges and cut them down into a spoon shaped driver that you can pop any piston pin through and use a cheap piston in your correct size and sand your squish band area down perfectly! So get to work fellas! You want a.025 thou squish band gap when you are finished… I just use a little piece of mig or fluxcore wire and when it’s stopping my gentle rotation attempt I’ll have just enough room for that Threebond 1184! Only! It’s $13 bucks per tube and you’ll actually also have a wicked good thread-locking compound that you simply drop a little puddle and just “tip” or dip and spin your last inch of threads and lay them on aluminum foil or waxed paper while you assemble your saw! it’ll make sure you never vibrate a single bolt loose … Yet! they will be easily removable when you want to work on your saw’s and remove the bolts! You just squeeze a little BB on the end of your tube and push the head of a 3 1/2 or 4” long inch deck screw on Phillips head screw down into the neck of your tube and you’ll re-seal your product air tight so you’ll be able to use it again in your future. You simply grab the head with your pliers and twist it out and you’ll be able to do your next saw project then repeat the same process and seal it back tight!You’ll get a dozen saw projects with your one $13 dollar tube! 65 Johnson Seahorse head gasket problem on your outboard motor or your air compressor gasket leaks are no problem either! .025 thou squish so you can build some carbon deposits and you’ll not have any contact and run strong! $20 bucks for a tube of 1184 and some sandpaper and scrap wood will do the job! A rubber suction cup valve lapper stuck to the top of your cylinder and your cordless drill will remove your cylinder base material like lightning fast! You gotta deglaze your cylinder bores and create your crosshatching with a little 320 ballhone just that bore size or smaller or a dishwashing sponge with the scotchbrite on one side and hot glue a 6-7” inch piece of 3/8’s wooden dowel rod into it’s center trimmed down to fit into your bore and a 1/2 sheet of 320 grit sandpaper and a slowly 15 rpm’s revolution and the little 3/8’s inch in and out action to cut into your walls and create a new crosshatching pattern and you’ll want a dinosaur juice conventional 2-stroke at 32:1 for a dozen tanks then you’ll be able to use your synthetic or synthetic blend oils so those new rings will actually cut their next new bore pathway into your cylinder walls!

I hardly trust wood being flat enough to sand a base flat. If you could use metal that would be much better.

 

[GMB74]

I give this guy high marks for ingenuity. Using welding wire to check squish is not something I had ever thought of.
I'm not keen on sanding/honing crosshatch marks into a chrome cylinder, but that is just me.

Using metal as a base for sanding the cylinder sounds a lot more accurate.
But is it redneck enough?