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With all my builds I install the difficult clip off the rod .
Then take an allen wrench or small socket and smack the wrist pin with a small hammer (noting too crazy) against the clip , setting it in its groove.
Then install piston and second clip, It's a little bit more difficult to set the opposite side but I'd rather blow the clip out of the groove while the cylinder isn't in place.
Dont forget to support the piston while smacking that pin.
 

schmeg

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I have a carb question. I’m building a clone 288 using some OEM parts including an OEM carb. I noticed when mocking up the intake manifold and carb, the throttle plate moves beyond “full throttle” when the throttle arm is moved to the throttle stop that’s molded into the manifold.I’m thinking of adding some material to the throttle stop to alleviate this. Has anyone encountered this on an OEM saw? I’m using an OEM carb, Meteor top end, but using a chinesium manifold.
 

Mattyo

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most of the time I find that the oem throttle lever doesn't push the throttle far enough to reach full wide open. ...but thats just me
 

Squareground3691

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I have a carb question. I’m building a clone 288 using some OEM parts including an OEM carb. I noticed when mocking up the intake manifold and carb, the throttle plate moves beyond “full throttle” when the throttle arm is moved to the throttle stop that’s molded into the manifold.I’m thinking of adding some material to the throttle stop to alleviate this. Has anyone encountered this on an OEM saw? I’m using an OEM carb, Meteor top end, but using a chinesium manifold.
I’ve herd people of heating arm up , and bending slightly fore or aft , to accommodate, but never tried it myself.
 

farminkarman

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I have a carb question. I’m building a clone 288 using some OEM parts including an OEM carb. I noticed when mocking up the intake manifold and carb, the throttle plate moves beyond “full throttle” when the throttle arm is moved to the throttle stop that’s molded into the manifold.I’m thinking of adding some material to the throttle stop to alleviate this. Has anyone encountered this on an OEM saw? I’m using an OEM carb, Meteor top end, but using a chinesium manifold.
When I built a clone 288, I ended up having to get an OEM lever because the AM one didn't open the throttle more than 75%.
 

Mattyo

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even with oem levers, sometimes its not enough. theres a few things you can do, one is just put some heat shrink or tygon hose over the tip of the lever to make it thicker...and therefore push the roller further down. one think I just did was actually make a slice partway through the lever and then heat it, and bend it, and use metal wire reinforcement and jbweld to get to push further. seems to have worked so far and I like it better than the hose technique.
 

qurotro

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I have a carb question. I’m building a clone 288 using some OEM parts including an OEM carb. I noticed when mocking up the intake manifold and carb, the throttle plate moves beyond “full throttle” when the throttle arm is moved to the throttle stop that’s molded into the manifold.I’m thinking of adding some material to the throttle stop to alleviate this. Has anyone encountered this on an OEM saw? I’m using an OEM carb, Meteor top end, but using a chinesium manifold.
Using heat to bend it is the easiest way. Yea.. OEM is often not opening enough as others stated. Gotta bend the arm either way.. I think that's how it is..
 

schmeg

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Using heat to bend it is the easiest way. Yea.. OEM is often not opening enough as others stated. Gotta bend the arm either way.. I think that's how it is..
Mine is opening too much. Throttle plate goes beyond wide open when the throttle lever on the carb bottoms out on the throttle stop thats molded into the intake block. I just made a shim out of plastic and epoxied it to the throttle stop Which will limit the travel. We shall see how it works.
 

afleetcommand

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I jumped pretty quickly to the g395, that was my "modification", :) I did run the 288 after replacing the bar oil pump for a while. Did a muffler mod is all. It ran well. No issues. AND the 288 is a couple of lbs lighter than the g395. But the power difference and the way the 395 ran after I did modify it with a muffler mod, Lil red barn popup piston etc. was enough I never went back to the 288. In fact cut two triaxle loads or around 50 tree's with the 395 along with a bunch of firewood. Earned over 8K with that g395 saw as tweaked by me. Have to say the 288 also earned its keep the season before, did most of a triaxle load and a lot of the firewood I'm now burning with the 288 last winter/fall 2021
 

9050lx

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I bought a farmertec oil pump for the G288, but considering disassembling the original pump to see if it can be tweaked.
 

decableguy2000

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Looking at the aftermarket crankcase for a 181, everything else would be oem. Think I'll will have any issues?
 

farminkarman

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Looking at the aftermarket crankcase for a 181, everything else would be oem. Think I'll will have any issues?
It will probably be fine. I think they come with bearings installed…again, you can probably run with the bearings it comes with, but you might consider replacing with some SKF or Nachi bearings.
 
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