All Things 288XP

[XP_Slinger]

@CJ Brown
Just my $.02 here. If you’re planning to cut the squish on the meteor jug you might be in for a real headache. The meteor plating is some tough stuff and from what I’ve seen the meteor jugs have a plated squish band. I’ve only tried to cut the squish band on 1 meteor jug and I ruined a couple cutters doing it and my lathe wasn’t happy doing it. I eventually got it done but swore I’d never do another.

Dats got a lot more value than .02, Forgot meteors had a plated chamber. Must have been miserable

 

[CJ Brown]

Well I cut the base today and ended up removing approximately .040" - I say approximately because the base wasn't flat or true to the cylinder bore. It actually had .008" run-out, and none of the flanges were perfectly flat. This kind of threw me off for a while as I kept rechecking my setup to ensure everything was running true. It may have been okay to bolt on with a base gasket, I don't know.

Anyway, it took me a long time to get my mandrel to run true. I would get it set up to zero run-out, but as soon as I put pressure on top of the cylinder I would lose zero. After many attempts I finally settled for .0015" run-out. Since this was my first ever attempt, I cut in .005" steps until I had removed .040". After every cut, I put the indicater back on the mandrel to ensure nothing had shifted. Luckily it held and didn't move.

So I made 8 cuts and was happy with the final result, and figured I would cut the cylinder extention while it was on the mandrel. BIG MISTAKE. I practically welded the cylinder to the mandrel because the nicasil is so hard it doesn't cut easily and the cutter actually pushed it slightly into the mandrel as it cut. It took a lot of heat, wd40, and a big wrench to get the cylinder loose from the mandrel - no fun. I did get the cylinder off eventually and it doesn't seem any worse for wear. My mandrel has some pretty good scratches in it though.

So a lesson learned and experience gained. I see what Mike meant when he said nikasil is hard to cut - I'm thinking a HSS cutter wouldn't even put a mark in it. It was like trying to cut through a thin layer of granite.

 

[Master Bud II]

Purdy !!!

 

[XP_Slinger]

Well I cut the base today and ended up removing approximately .040" - I say approximately because the base wasn't flat or true to the cylinder bore. It actually had .008" run-out, and none of the flanges were perfectly flat. This kind of threw me off for a while as I kept rechecking my setup to ensure everything was running true. It may have been okay to bolt on with a base gasket, I don't know.

Anyway, it took me a long time to get my mandrel to run true. I would get it set up to zero run-out, but as soon as I put pressure on top of the cylinder I would lose zero. After many attempts I finally settled for .0015" run-out. Since this was my first ever attempt, I cut in .005" steps until I had removed .040". After every cut, I put the indicater back on the mandrel to ensure nothing had shifted. Luckily it held and didn't move.

So I made 8 cuts and was happy with the final result, and figured I would cut the cylinder extention while it was on the mandrel. BIG MISTAKE. I practically welded the cylinder to the mandrel because the nicasil is so hard it doesn't cut easily and the cutter actually pushed it slightly into the mandrel as it cut. It took a lot of heat, wd40, and a big wrench to get the cylinder loose from the mandrel - no fun. I did get the cylinder off eventually and it doesn't seem any worse for wear. My mandrel has some pretty good scratches in it though.

So a lesson learned and experience gained. I see what Mike meant when he said nikasil is hard to cut - I'm thinking a HSS cutter wouldn't even put a mark in it. It was like trying to cut through a thin layer of granite.
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Valuable experience gained, thanks for sharing. Strange that you couldn’t get it true with pressure on the cylinder...wonder if the squish band isn’t square to the bore??? Or the end of your mandrel is off??? Just spit ballin

 

[CJ Brown]

Valuable experience gained, thanks for sharing. Strange that you couldn’t get it true with pressure on the cylinder...wonder if the squish band isn’t square to the bore??? Or the end of your mandrel is off??? Just spit ballin

I faced the end of the mandrel when I turned it, so it is square. However, I think you may be right about the squish band. I did get a little less squish on one part of the squish band and maybe that was throwing things off.

 

[XP_Slinger]

I faced the end of the mandrel when I turned it, so it is square. However, I think you may be right about the squish band. I did get a little less squish on one part of the squish band and maybe that was throwing things off.

That’s a little disappointing too me, I’ve always had a lot of respect for the quality of meteor kits. This one so far seems to have missed the quality mark.

 

[CJ Brown]

That’s a little disappointing too me, I’ve always had a lot of respect for the quality of meteor kits. This one so far seems to have missed the quality mark.

Yeah it's a mixed bag with this cylinder. The timing was bang on when compared to a stock Mahle cylinder, and the plating and casting look nice. But the machining tolerances are not great. I actually measured the bores in both this cylinder and my Mahle cylinder with my inside mic. Both cylinders seem perfectly round after measuring multiple locations, but the Meteor is about .0002 larger bore diameter. I think this would place it in the "B" sized cylinder range, as the Mahle cylinder is an "A" cylinder. I would also say the upper and lower transfers as well as the tunnels are narrower on the Meteor cylinder. I am sure you could bolt the Meteor cylinder on and it would run fine, but it is not the same quality as OEM.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Yeah it's a mixed bag with this cylinder. The timing was bang on when compared to a stock Mahle cylinder, and the plating and casting look nice. But the machining tolerances are not great. I actually measured the bores in both this cylinder and my Mahle cylinder with my inside mic. Both cylinders seem perfectly round after measuring multiple locations, but the Meteor is about .0002 larger bore diameter. I think this would place it in the "B" sized cylinder range, as the Mahle cylinder is an "A" cylinder. I would also say the upper and lower transfers as well as the tunnels are narrower on the Meteor cylinder. I am sure you could bolt the Meteor cylinder on and it would run fine, but it is not the same quality as OEM.

Did the kit come with a “B” piston?

 

[CJ Brown]

Did the kit come with a “B” piston?

The kit came with an "A" piston but I have a "B" piston here

I am going to put the cylinder back on the mandrel and check my flange run-out now that I have cut it. If it is excessive, I will have to figure out a way to get the mandrel to run true while machining and clean up the flange before I move on to the piston.

 

[markds2]

Here's my 266's big brother being built. All OEM except for a new Meteor and Cabers. Has anyone had problems with Meteor piston pin clips breaking? If so I'll change them out for OEM ones.

 

[CJ Brown]

The kit came with an "A" piston but I have a "B" piston here

I am going to put the cylinder back on the mandrel and check my flange run-out now that I have cut it. If it is excessive, I will have to figure out a way to get the mandrel to run true while machining and clean up the flange before I move on to the piston.

Checked the flange runout after cutting the base and got .0005" - close enuf.

 

[mdavlee]

I have put stick on sandpaper on the end of the mandrels to help hold with less pressure. I sanded a 562 chamber to cut it before using HSS as well.

 

[Onan18]

If you are dropping the cylinder on a 288 (or any 2xx series really) it is important to remember that you have to allow for the entire intake track to come down as well.

That means grinding down where the intake block rests, and where the filter holder mounts.




And you also have to have clearance for the carb screws.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Here's my 266's big brother being built. All OEM except for a new Meteor and Cabers. Has anyone had problems with Meteor piston pin clips breaking? If so I'll change them out for OEM ones.
View attachment 216402 View attachment 216403

I’ve never had an issue with meteor clips. How’s this build coming along?

 

[XP_Slinger]

Checked the flange runout after cutting the base and got .0005" - close enuf.
View attachment 216481

She running yet CJ?

 

[CJ Brown]

She running yet CJ?

Ha! Not even close. I am waiting for a piece of round stock to show up so I can make a piston holder. Then I will turn a pop-up and get some new timing readings and go from there.

Nothing moves to quick for me so check back in a year or so.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Ha! Not even close. I am waiting for a piece of round stock to show up so I can make a piston holder. Then I will turn a pop-up and get some new timing readings and go from there.

Nothing moves to quick for me so check back in a year or so.

Lol! Good things are worth the wait, just checkin in with ya...no pressure

 

[markds2]

I’ve never had an issue with meteor clips. How’s this build coming along?

It came together really well thanks! I'm still waiting on some bits including a new low top (which I prefer). I did go ahead and change out the Meteor clips for OEM. I used it again today, sure cuts fast with an 8pin, full chisel and a 20 inch bar!

 

[XP_Slinger]

It came together really well thanks! I'm still waiting on some bits including a new low top (which I prefer). I did go ahead and change out the Meteor clips for OEM. I used it again today, sure cuts fast with an 8pin, full chisel and a 20 inch bar!
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Glads it’s running good for you. Looks great

 

[Master Bud II]

@markds2 I Was going to ask, once you received your low top if you'd Be interested in selling your high top. Then I looked at your profile and seen that your in New Zealand, and sead Better luck next time.....
BTY- Great Looking 288 !!!
Still trying to make a 288 'G' high top full wrap