A simple "Field Tune" For Husqvarna Autotunes...

[MinnWeekendCutter]

Day to day, you start it, give it 5-10 secs on fast idle, 20-30 on idle, then run it hard. It will tune itself and improve the tune until it is optimum. Not sure exactly the frequency, but it keeps checking high speed tune regularly when running at full throttle, and the same for idle tune when idling. It can’t check high speed tune when idling of course. Once enough samples are gathered, it adjusts the tune, then repeats the process.

They reset is if it the tune is clearly off, most likely from a long time since last run. It gives the the saw a long enough period running at full throttle to set the high speed in one jump. Cutting blocks it might take two or three times as long before enough samples are gathered due to the off throttle time between cuts.


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This rings true in my (limited) experience. My two autotune saws run great overall. I start and run them as you’ve mentioned (probably not as hard as I’m out of shape and just a homeowner hack anyway). The 550xp mk2 took a bit of time to get really dialed in when I ran last in 8F weather and then started it up weeks later at 65F. I didn’t do anything special and it really came alive after maybe five cuts. In the future if I experience such extreme weather changes between run cycles I may try this “reset.” Or maybe I should think of it more a a “learning” event than a reset. Good info in this thread.

 

[Nutball]

How deep is that cut?

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Being soft white pine, probably on the deeper side. It could be 4-6" is my guess. I just wanted to bury the tip and try to load the saw an appropriate amount. It was screaming though. I almost thought I would run out if log, so I started going deeper and slower, but it held a constant rpm very well.

 

[ZERO]

@Spike60 Bob is husqvarna going to put out a manual to the dealers that can be shared with the customers? Looks like there was lots of good info mentioned in the webinar, too bad the corporates are not being proactive and sharing the info with the saw nerds like me.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

I would like to know every detail in how autotune/mtronic works. I have an interest in programming logic. I have a hard time figuring out how to reliably trigger the exhaust brake and down shifting sequence on a Dodge truck I drive at work. Quite often it dies nothing putting the whole load on the brakes or making me have to hit the down shift button all the way.

I have a flow chart in PDF but I cannot attach it to this thread. If your interested pm me with your email and I’ll send it

 

[Sprinter]

I would Kneedeep but obviously I am to stupid to to see how. Leeked around a bit but I see no way to PM.

 

[Nutball]

I'll watch my step around the forum now, but next time look instead of leeking

 

[Spike60]

Not sure how many of our goofy the comments made the video. (I'm sure my good buddy cut out me complaining about him leaving the 555 on fast idle with the chain brake on. ) But otherwise that 555 wouldn't idle at all. And you heard how bad it ran until it cleared up in the cut. The story is that 555 sat for a good 8 years down in the cellar. Was my original demo from 2011 that arrived on the first ever 555 shipment. Until it reset itself, it was clearly unusable. Would have gone back in the truck to be sorted out here at the shop. Or.....let the AT do it's thing as you saw. We were actually lucky that it was running that bad in order to demonstrate the "tuning cut". But it's not like this is something ya gotta do every time you use the saws. Only when it's not running right or wigging out like that. We also ran the brand new 565 and Walt's recently used 562 and neither one made any audible changes as the current settings were fine for the day.

The cookie cut method would only work on a real huge log where you're in the cut for a while. On a smaller log, every time you drop out of the cut, the process has to start over, so you never get there. Top handle saws like the T540 hardly ever do a long cut, so a tuning cut isn't a bad idea now and then. There has been a fair amount of confusion as the "official" way to do this has changed a few times. They don't even mention it in the owners manuals anymore. They do need to get this message out in one way or another, but I'm not sure what they'll do. Be cool if I can find a link to that webinar, wouldn't it?

 

[RI Chevy]

Thanks for sharing that Bob. [emoji106]

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Not sure how many of our goofy the comments made the video. (I'm sure my good buddy cut out me complaining about him leaving the 555 on fast idle with the chain brake on. ) But otherwise that 555 wouldn't idle at all. And you heard how bad it ran until it cleared up in the cut. The story is that 555 sat for a good 8 years down in the cellar. Was my original demo from 2011 that arrived on the first ever 555 shipment. Until it reset itself, it was clearly unusable. Would have gone back in the truck to be sorted out here at the shop. Or.....let the AT do it's thing as you saw. We were actually lucky that it was running that bad in order to demonstrate the "tuning cut". But it's not like this is something ya gotta do every time you use the saws. Only when it's not running right or wigging out like that. We also ran the brand new 565 and Walt's recently used 562 and neither one made any audible changes as the current settings were fine for the day.

The cookie cut method would only work on a real huge log where you're in the cut for a while. On a smaller log, every time you drop out of the cut, the process has to start over, so you never get there. Top handle saws like the T540 hardly ever do a long cut, so a tuning cut isn't a bad idea now and then. There has been a fair amount of confusion as the "official" way to do this has changed a few times. They don't even mention it in the owners manuals anymore. They do need to get this message out in one way or another, but I'm not sure what they'll do. Be cool if I can find a link to that webinar, wouldn't it?

Think this would fix the hot start issues?

 

[Nutball]

I have a flow chart in PDF but I cannot attach it to this thread. If your interested pm me with your email and I’ll send it

Thanks, it helped me understand a little better what's going on, some I like, some I'm iffy about, but I still have questions only the engineers could answer.

 

[Nutball]

I don't know how the Stihls differ, but I assumed they began tuning on the first cut, and continued progress on each cut rather than starting over as long as each of the first few cuts is relatively long and steady. To me it feels like a Stihl makes a lot of progress in 10-20 seconds, as if you were manually tuning the carb in the cut: rich, then lean, then find peak power, though my 362 after finding peak power felt like it settled far on the lean side loosing much torque.

 

[Rogee]

Not sure how many of our goofy the comments made the video. (I'm sure my good buddy cut out me complaining about him leaving the 555 on fast idle with the chain brake on. ) But otherwise that 555 wouldn't idle at all. And you heard how bad it ran until it cleared up in the cut. The story is that 555 sat for a good 8 years down in the cellar. Was my original demo from 2011 that arrived on the first ever 555 shipment. Until it reset itself, it was clearly unusable. Would have gone back in the truck to be sorted out here at the shop. Or.....let the AT do it's thing as you saw. We were actually lucky that it was running that bad in order to demonstrate the "tuning cut". But it's not like this is something ya gotta do every time you use the saws. Only when it's not running right or wigging out like that. We also ran the brand new 565 and Walt's recently used 562 and neither one made any audible changes as the current settings were fine for the day.

The cookie cut method would only work on a real huge log where you're in the cut for a while. On a smaller log, every time you drop out of the cut, the process has to start over, so you never get there. Top handle saws like the T540 hardly ever do a long cut, so a tuning cut isn't a bad idea now and then. There has been a fair amount of confusion as the "official" way to do this has changed a few times. They don't even mention it in the owners manuals anymore. They do need to get this message out in one way or another, but I'm not sure what they'll do. Be cool if I can find a link to that webinar, wouldn't it?

So you have to do use this method to get them to change tune . Or am I missing something

 

[afleetcommand]

If these times were required or technique is required to make any changes to the "setting", some saws would never change right, no "Autotune" would happen? Perfect question!

IF you noticed, I put in some numbers on the start and end time to where it started running better. SO I guess a natural question would be ..... did it just sense and make a big "hop" to the good setting? Did it iterate and at some point started running better, "ratcheting" the settings to that last point? IF it "iterates" with the lean out test, what is the frequency? And then does it continue that iteration process for the next 10-15 seconds before setting that number? WHAT happened and along what time line? Do the different releases have different time lines on those events? Different "iteration" and "reset" frequencies? How much of that is defined by firmware, how much by hardware? Can go down a rabbit hole on this Two things to consider we did not address .the "real" time adjustments while running and then when it "sets" the tune where when you start it next time , that's where the tune will be. SO is that one in the same "event"? ( real time vs. setting? ) Or is that two different time events. If it was the same events, there would be millions of "resets" in operation history right? I'll let the official types address that ( Note: it was discussed "open session" in the training a few years back, So I suspect there is a fair amount of understanding out there on the topic assuming that happened in other training sessions ). If it takes 3 minutes to set a tune ( idle / low speed in this case), some saws will never get there unless thru CST without this "knowledge", something that would need to be common knowledge. And if it takes 40 seconds steady state conditions to set the high speed, those fire wood guys may never get there either! So me thinks there is a little more to the story, other wise we wouldn't see different numbers in operation history from the original setting THIS video was simply a demonstration of how to force a tuning adjustment and tune by holding a condition long enough for the Autotune to both real time adjust and update ( for lack of better terminology ) the setting to the best possible with the given conditions. Just a forced reset if the saw is running well enough to accomplish this. No more no less.

Bottom line for most of us?? Just run those things! We can pick over the chit to find the corn here because that is what we do, just most "experts" should have this reset technique in the bag of tricks is the take away. Since 2013 I've never had to reset my saws this way to make them run. IF you have a running issue , try the technique demonstrated in this video as a way to force Autotune to adjust in a focused way as best it can.

 

[Rogee]

If these times were required or technique is required to make any changes to the "setting", some saws would never change right, no "Autotune" would happen? Perfect question!

IF you noticed, I put in some numbers on the start and end time to where it started running better. SO I guess a natural question would be ..... did it just sense and make a big "hop" to the good setting? Did it iterate and at some point started running better, "ratcheting" the settings to that last point? IF it "iterates" with the lean out test, what is the frequency? And then does it continue that iteration process for the next 10-15 seconds before setting that number? WHAT happened and along what time line? Do the different releases have different time lines on those events? Different "iteration" and "reset" frequencies? How much of the is defined by firmware, how much by hardware? Can go down a rabbit hole on this Two things to consider we did not address .the "real" time adjustments while running and then when it "sets" the tune where when you start it next time , that's where the tune will be. SO is that one in the same "event"? ( real time vs. setting? ) Or is that two different time events. If it was the same events, there would be millions of "resets" in operation history right? I'll let the official types address that ( Note: it was discussed "open session" in the training a few years back, So I suspect there is a fair amount of understanding out there on the topic assuming that happened in other training sessions ). If it takes 3 minutes to set a tune ( idle / low speed in this case), some saws will never get there unless thru CST without this "knowledge", something that would need to be common knowledge. And if it takes 40 seconds steady state conditions to set the high speed, those fire wood guys may never get there either! So me thinks there is a little more to the story, other wise we wouldn't see different numbers in operation history from the original setting THIS video was simply a demonstration of how to force a tuning adjustment and tune by holding a condition long enough for the Autotune to both real time adjust and update ( for lack of better terminology ) the setting to the best possible with the given conditions. Just a forced reset if the saw is running well enough to accomplish this. No more no less.

Bottom line for most of us?? Just run those things! We can pick over the chit to find the corn here because that is what we do, just most "experts" should have this reset technique in the bag of tricks is the take away. Since 2013 I've never had to reset my saws this way to make them run. IF you have a running issue , try the technique demonstrated in this video as a way to force Autotune to adjust in a focused way as best it can.

Well said . Owning the early autotunes through to the latest I've never had to reset any of them . As my husky dealer told me Just get out there and run like you stole it and it will do the rest .

 

[sawmikaze]

Most of the autotune and mtronic problems comes from people running them like pussies. They aren’t made to idle all day by a chipper or cut two cookies on a Sunday and put back on the shelf. It won’t tune properly. You have to run them hard. They harder you run them... the better they seem to run. One other thing I will do that I think makes a difference is before shutting them off is to let it settle down to idle for a few seconds. Especially after a hard run.

So what do you do about a saw that does hang out by a chipper ? Or a top handle that gets intermittent use ?

 

[huskyboy]

So what do you do about a saw that does hang out by a chipper ? Or a top handle that gets intermittent use ?

A chipper saw just had to cut limbs off every once a while doesn’t have to be a 1,000$ saw like a 462 or 572. Or a 600$ 50cc saw like a 550/261. Maybe just buy a small cheap adjustable carbed saw? I use my little 421 dolmar for that purpose if we chip or slash brush. I don’t use tophandles for what I do so I can’t comment anything about that.

 

[Ronaldo]

So what do you do about a saw that does hang out by a chipper ? Or a top handle that gets intermittent use ?

Just run it like any other saw. If it starts giving a guy problems, then we know how to re- set it.

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[ZERO]

Walt and Bob, great info as always!

Are you guys planning to do a test and a video for those that do not have a big or long log where the high speed tune cannot happen with a continual cut conditions past the 30 to 40s rule?

Bob mentioned in the video that the cookie cutting method will not work as the RPM zings upwards at the end of the cut, thus defeating the whole purpose.

It would be nice if an out of tune saw could be run in a smaller log where the throttle would be let go to idle before the cut finishes thus the saw would not zing to a higher RPM, but rather wind down from its load cut RPM back to idle RPM. Then observe how many partial cookie cuts or seconds would be needed to re-tune the high RPM settings with the repetitive partial cookie cutting method, not cutting all the way through.

 

[Nutball]

I'd think autotune could be smart enough to throw out the odd bits like at the end of a cut. Where it gets complex in my mind is the great variability in speed with round wood and repositioning the spikes and of course poor operation skills. I work with 2 guys who have been cutting longer than me, but they both lean on the saw till the chain stops, let off a little, then repeat several times until the cut is completed. I'm surprised they don't burn up the clutch.

 

[huskyhank]

Reading this might give more feel for how Husky autotune works.

http://editor-g3.gws.husqvarna.com/..._24/Manual_Engine_Diagnostic_Tool_English.pdf