562 rebuild ideas

[Duce]

Picked this 562 up yesterday for a great price. Free. Disassembled it looking for problems, besides the piston issue did not see any torn boots, lines or rubber seals, bearings turn smooth. Saw is a 2012 with el46 carburetor. Maybe straight gassed? Any suggestions from someone who has rebuilt one would be appreciated. Oem piston around $105 and Meteor $50. How would you rebuild it?

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

For what you paid I'd consider a new oem cylinder kit for under $200.
Pieces of the plastic bearing cages are usually what lets go before the bearings, causing damage to the seals. So double checking for that may be a good idea.

 

[Duce]

For what you paid I'd consider a new oem cylinder kit for under $200.
Pieces of the plastic bearing cages are usually what lets go before the bearings, causing damage to the seals. So double checking for that may be a good idea.

Bearings are intact, would you just replace them also?

 

[Gunn]

If they are intact and in good shape there's no need to replace them.

 

[angelo c]

For what you paid I'd consider a new oem cylinder kit for under $200.
Pieces of the plastic bearing cages are usually what lets go before the bearings, causing damage to the seals. So double checking for that may be a good idea.

Jim, any better "options" to the plastic bearing cages ? Or are they proprietary ? I've got one to do as well and wanted to avoid the bottom end breakup but if the bearings be a known weakness, a break up it will be.

 

[Duce]

Jim, any better "options" to the plastic bearing cages ? Or are they proprietary ? I've got one to do as well and wanted to avoid the bottom end breakup but if the bearings be a known weakness, a break up it will be.

+1

 

[cgraham1]

I would part it out.

 

[Duce]

I would part it out.

I get a feeling of accomplishment when they are running again. Parting it out is the easy way out. Besides I like these over rated 562xp's.

 

[Gunn]

Plastic bearing cages get a bad rap but would you rather have plastic cages or metal if they let go?
Plastic cages have several pluses. If they fail, they usually won't tear up a top end and they hold their dimensions better in the temp range crank bearings operated under.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

When either style of bearing cage goes the result is the same. The fix is the same.
The plastic ones are facing the wrong direction from the factory and the thinner part of the cage is exposed to the higher temps inside the crankcase. Little chunks break loose and damage the inside of the seals. They usually catch hold of the little spring inside the seal to help finish the saw off.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Bearings are intact, would you just replace them also?

If the cages appear to be clean and not all dis colored or warped then they should be trustable.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Jim, any better "options" to the plastic bearing cages ? Or are they proprietary ? I've got one to do as well and wanted to avoid the bottom end breakup but if the bearings be a known weakness, a break up it will be.

If you can flip the cages around so the flat part faces out then it should remedy the potential problem. But I don't think it's possible with the one piece bearing/seal on the clutch side.

 

[johnny5ny]

Raise and square up the exhaust port, smooth all the casting flash and delete the base gasket.
Ain't nothing over rated about a ported 562!

 

[panteliss]

Jim, any better "options" to the plastic bearing cages ? Or are they proprietary ? I've got one to do as well and wanted to avoid the bottom end breakup but if the bearings be a known weakness, a break up it will be.

If the bearing looks and feel good for what reason to change them , and finally you dont know when a bearing fail maybe you put today and tomorow fail

 

[panteliss]

Picked this 562 up yesterday for a great price. Free. Disassembled it looking for problems, besides the piston issue did not see any torn boots, lines or rubber seals, bearings turn smooth. Saw is a 2012 with el46 carburetor. Maybe straight gassed?View attachment 32263 View attachment 32264 View attachment 32265 View attachment 32266 View attachment 32268 Any suggestions from someone who has rebuilt one would be appreciated. Oem piston around $105 and Meteor $50. How would you rebuild it?

OEM

 

[angelo c]

If the bearing looks and feel good for what reason to change them , and finally you dont know when a bearing fail maybe you put today and tomorow fail

I've been mislead a few times with bearings that felt "smooth" when wet/oiled in the cases. When I took them out later and cleaned them they were crunchy. Bearings are like stinky diapers to me...if they smell funny I change them out.

 

[Duce]

Raise and square up the exhaust port, smooth all the casting flash and delete the base gasket.
Ain't nothing over rated about a ported 562!

I have a 562 at Mr. Masterminds now, doing his magic on it. I will rebuild this one using oem parts as suggested and thanks for everyone's input!

 

[Mastermind]

The machine work is done.....grinding tomorrow.

 

[jacob j.]

Both of the bearings are proprietary. Neither of them can be flipped- the PTO side bearing has the integral seal built into it and the flywheel side bearing has a "nose" that sticks out (the inner race is wider) that meshes with the seal. A new replacement crankcase with new bearings and seals is available from Husqvarna for about $100. I just rebuilt three of them and had a cheap local source for new OEM bearings so I went that route.

Also- Meteor just started making a piston and ring kit for 555/562 so it might be worth going that route. You can step into a Meteor kit from most sellers for about $50 or OEM from a dealer for about $85-90.

 

[panteliss]

I've been mislead a few times with bearings that felt "smooth" when wet/oiled in the cases. When I took them out later and cleaned them they were crunchy. Bearings are like stinky diapers to me...if they smell funny I change them out.

Maybe better use this when you examine bearings ............................... ok ok dont ungry friend