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200T Video & Seal Thread

Mattyo

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If you want....I probably have an extra half an hour if video of me tapping on the seals with a deep socket. It's even more boring than my usual stuff I post....

I still busted the seals. They really have to be aligned perfectly.
 

Mastermind

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I've installed a slew of them.......I did break one. Got it started crooked. Chipped a piece outta the side. I'm gonna get a tool for em......they can be fragile.
 

Al Smith

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Buy the Stihl one Al and then make a bunch of them out of aluminum on a lathe if you could. And sell them of course. Actually I know a couple guys that are nice enough to send you some if you send them back.
Houston we have a problem/ I have one of the finest toolmakers lathes ever built,a Monarch 10EE that I could thread a darning needle with,literally .
The tube type rectifier circuitry went funky,it' a DC drive .

I have a brand new solid state controller for it that I haven't been able to find the time to install so at the moment I'm dead in the water . With any kind of luck within maybe this fall I might retire and if/then things will change as far as time to do anything .Until then all I can do is talk about things .
 

Mattyo

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another boring vid.... this time, I'm installing the am seals... enjoy!

 

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Is there any downside to using the Stihl OEM rubber seal 9640 003 1190 instead of the 9640 003 1191 bakelite seal?

Putting a new top end on my saw. Bakelite seals pass leak/vacuum, should I still change them?
I am slightly concerned with more risk damaging the case removing these bakelite seals or driving in new seals if they aren't currently leaking.

I do have the Stihl seal press tool 1123 893 2400.
 

Mastermind

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Is there any downside to using the Stihl OEM rubber seal 9640 003 1190 instead of the 9640 003 1191 bakelite seal?

Putting a new top end on my saw. Bakelite seals pass leak/vacuum, should I still change them?
I am slightly concerned with more risk damaging the case removing these bakelite seals or driving in new seals if they aren't currently leaking.

I do have the Stihl seal press tool 1123 893 2400.

The rubber seals drag more on the crank....but after break in, not a big deal.

If the old ones ain't leaking, run it.
 

PA Dan

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Every rebuild I go with the OEM flywheel seal from the 026. Same size and I haven't broken one of them on install. I broke every one of the bakelite seals I tried to install. Ya both of them!
 
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huskihl

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I put one together for @rjames a few months ago and I believe the seals were rubber. First one I’ve worked on. They went in easily and worked fine
 

huskihl

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Every rebuild I go with the OEM flywheel seal from the 026. Same size and I haven't broken one of them on install. I broke every one of the bakelite seals I tried to install. Ya both of them!
Works on both sides?
 

Al Smith

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On those 200T seals I've changed a lot of them .I've heard the seals from an 024 will work but never tried them. As far as that goes I've mention before in my opinion the type of crankshaft roller bearings ,again in my opinion are the main cause of seal failure on this little hot rod of a saw .The last time I resealed and re bearing either an 020T or a 200 T they were about 60 bucks OEM .Considering what they are and what money they bring rather a small investment .I for one have no idea what could be done to make them last longer but bad seals because of the bearings are what kills most of them IMO .
 

Mattyo

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If I'm splitting a 200t crankcase... then im using oem bearings and seals. If im not splitting the case....then I like the rubber seals (which as the same as a flywheel side seals on an 026) ....they are far easier to install.

Most of the time im splitting the cases ;)
 

rjames

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I put one together for @rjames a few months ago and I believe the seals were rubber. First one I’ve worked on. They went in easily and worked fine

These are the ones I ordered/ sent with the saw.

9640 003 1191
 

mbrick

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On those 200T seals I've changed a lot of them .I've heard the seals from an 024 will work but never tried them. As far as that goes I've mention before in my opinion the type of crankshaft roller bearings ,again in my opinion are the main cause of seal failure on this little hot rod of a saw .The last time I resealed and re bearing either an 020T or a 200 T they were about 60 bucks OEM .Considering what they are and what money they bring rather a small investment .I for one have no idea what could be done to make them last longer but bad seals because of the bearings are what kills most of them IMO .
When you say bearings cause seals to fail, do you mean the bakelite or rubber seals, or both?
Is your suspicion bearings going bad is allowing radial runout which beats up the fairly hard bakelite seal?
Do you find the lip area broken off when you take them apart or nothing obvious?

The rubber seals drag more on the crank....but after break in, not a big deal.
If the old ones ain't leaking, run it.
Ok thanks!
 

Al Smith

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The roller bearings have a thrust plate that will wear allowing side to side slop .The clutch side will build up grime from oil and grit that because of the oscillating side slop grind away on the OEM style seals in a given amount of time .That's my theory on this . It typically goes like this .Starts up and runs fine for maybe 10 minutes then starts to lean out .Which after time this lean run happens sooner and sooner .You can renew the seals and get by for a time but eventually the bearings will need replaced .As I mentioned I've never tried the 024-026 seals but it could be a better option .These little hot rods you can really tell when they start sucking air because the power really falls off .However if you let them sit and cool down the seals again seal and they run fine .That's an indication it's time to do something before the top ends gets cooked .
 
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