Well I installed new crank seals and fixed that weak boot flange problem. I'm not so sure it was the boot as much as it was the seals. They held good pressure and vac until after running it a few times before exposing themselves.
This should make for perfect flange material that won't flex...ever.
New seals..finished off with a dab of red loctite around the outer rim to give me that warm fuzzy feeling inside.
But when I went out to run it today it blew up the damn recoil spool. Not because it can't handle it but because I didn't do it right. I originally reamed out the hole to match the 064 recoil spool bolt and it left the spool really weak and this is what I was waiting to happen:
Now... this time I milled down the 064 bolt to match the 044/046 spool and I think it will now hold. Not bad for doing it by hand heh?
Slowly making progress. I had it tuned right, then the intake boot started migrating off the cylinder to let it get a little lean again. I didn't want to deal with reinforcing that part of the intake until I pull it back apart for port work....which is what I believe the next step will be.
I'm just amazed how well this thing runs with the cylinder still stock. It feels like it will be strong enough to pull a 10-pin as hard as the 9-pin it's running. I won't be changing any numbers on the first round of grinding. I'll start with a good breathing treatment.
The outer edge of the squish is .020 as it is. If the compression is low then I'll consider lowering it to compensate for widening the band.
I'm also relieved to find out the carb I was running on it isn't bad like I was starting to think. It was racing with a really high idle which is very noticeable in the video. I couldn't tune it right at all. Then I find out tonight that I totally botched the red loctite job I did on the cylinder base. I normally use the grey motoseal but didn't feel like scraping that stuff off when porting the cylinder.
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