026 worth $100?

[stihl_head1982]

Interesting read, and very fortuitous timing for me, as I received a text message from the owner of the Honey Hole where I get most of my better deals. He has an 026 that fell out of a tree attached to the guy using it. The cutter will recover, but the saw needs a new tank handle assembly. I was offered the saw for $50. It is an early red lever, non PRO saw. Even if I spend $60 on a new handle assembly, it seems like a decent enough deal.

What say ye'?

Pull the trigger! I'd do it in a minute!

 

[stihl_head1982]

I think something like and EZ lock or helicoil would would work. They have some with that thread size and pitch. It depends on how oblong that hole is. How hard is it to remove the chain brake handle? I pulled the cover on the clutch side, said oh crap, and put it back on! Looks like a lot of springs and small moving parts to me. Just trying to get better access to the hole.

EZ lock would be my choice, but there may be more skilled machinist here that would advise otherwise. My advice would get you through without disassembling the saw. As for the chain brake -- it would be a good learning experience. Perhaps we could also get you the Stihl shop manual thru email that could walk you through it. Otherwise I felt the same way when I first looked at a chain brake (years ago). The good thing about the learning experience is -- many Stihl models use the same "style" or design for the chain brake. So what you will be learning will help you as you move forward. Plus this group of guys will gladly help you through all this stuff.

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

Buy it, I ran the saw before I tore it down. I know why people like these little saws!

It's my go to saw. Always grab it first.

 

[Basher]

What would you use to weld it up with? I was thinking of a cold weld epoxy, but I have a TIG, MIG, stick, and oxy/acetylene torches. I'm just not sure what these cases are made of. I have no experience welding up saw cases.

It can be welded up with a TIG torch and AZ92A filler rod, my younger brother welds all types of metals and this is what he has used on some of my broken magnesium saw parts. He wraps the freshly welded parts up in an asbestos blanket or buries it in pre heated hot sand and lets the parts cool slowly, he feels that doing so helps prevent cracking around the welds.
I should add that cleaning all the contamination off around the area to be welded is crucial, he uses carbide cutters instead of grinding discs to make the cracked or broken area to be welded nice and shiny metal clean and then sparingly wipes the area off with acetone. To test to see if metal parts are magnesium and not aluminum a little white vinegar applied to magnesium will fizz up like peroxide does on a cut in your skin but the vinegar will not fizz on aluminum. These may be just redneck approaches but I do know it works for us.

 

[Dustin4185]

EZ lock would be my choice, but there may be more skilled machinist here that would advise otherwise. My advice would get you through without disassembling the saw. As for the chain brake -- it would be a good learning experience. Perhaps we could also get you the Stihl shop manual thru email that could walk you through it. Otherwise I felt the same way when I first looked at a chain brake (years ago). The good thing about the learning experience is -- many Stihl models use the same "style" or design for the chain brake. So what you will be learning will help you as you move forward. Plus this group of guys will gladly help you through all this stuff.

That would be great. I am off Monday so I will try to drill it out and tap to 8mm X 1.25. We will see how that goes before I order them. Grainger has them in stock. If that fails, JB Steel stick or Quick steel then drill and tap to 4mmx0.70. If that doesn't hold, I will scrap the case or try to clean it out and weld the hole up.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Interesting read, and very fortuitous timing for me, as I received a text message from the owner of the Honey Hole where I get most of my better deals. He has an 026 that fell out of a tree attached to the guy using it. The cutter will recover, but the saw needs a new tank handle assembly. I was offered the saw for $50. It is an early red lever, non PRO saw. Even if I spend $60 on a new handle assembly, it seems like a decent enough deal.

What say ye'?

Not mine... has the later model fuel vent http://opeforum.com/threads/026-tank.5664/
I want that orange cap!!

 

[Jon1212]

Not mine... has the later model fuel vent http://opeforum.com/threads/026-tank.5664/
I want that orange cap!!

Thanks for looking out for me. My buddy Dallas @dall texted me that he has a spare 026 tank/handle assembly.

 

[stihl_head1982]

Not mine... has the later model fuel vent http://opeforum.com/threads/026-tank.5664/
I want that orange cap!!

I've owned more 026's than I can count. I've never seen one with the orange cap like that. Is it possible it came from a 029 super and just happened to fit.
If I saw a orange oil cap I may really freak out

 

[dall]

the orange caps was placed on the 029 and 039 saws on the factory caps it says 029 039 only for some reason

 

[Dustin4185]

I performed a pressure/vac test following some online info I found. Saw #1 (bad hole) passed, saw #2 failed. I went ahead and dove into tearing it down. What do I have to loose, right? I am not sure how #2 had the compression it did. The cylinder has a lot of transfer and the piston skirt has a chip missing on a corner. I have it tore down to the case, oil pump, crank, and rod. Is there an easy way to split this case without special tools. I can fab some tools if needed, but I wasn't sure if there was an easy way.

 

[mdavlee]

Where is the vacuum leak?

 

[Dustin4185]

Where is the vacuum leak?

Seal on the clutch side.

 

[mdavlee]

Seal on the clutch side.

You don't have to split it to change seals

 

[drf256]

It's usually the fly side.

Any crank wobble?

 

[Dustin4185]

You don't have to split it to change seals

What about bearings? I was going to just put new seals and bearings on this one. Kind of a learning experience also. Saw #1 is back together with a few borrowed parts from the other one. The chain had been into the brake band on it so I swapped that out. Also grabbed the screen from the spare for the muffler. The one torn apart had major carbon buildup on the piston and in the muffler. The cylinder was scored on the intake side pretty bad. I'm going to eventually put a new P&C, new bearings, seals, and other misc parts.

 

[mdavlee]

By all means if you want to do a full rebuild. I thought you just wanted it back to running.

 

[Dustin4185]

By all means if you want to do a full rebuild. I thought you just wanted it back to running.

This is the freebie so to speak. The more I do, the more I can learn. So, what's the best way to split the case without a special tool? I saw one on YouTube that bolted to the bar studs and cantilevered over to the crank. It worked for him on a 372. I don't want to heat and beat it to split it.

 

[mdavlee]

This is the freebie so to speak. The more I do, the more I can learn. So, what's the best way to split the case without a special tool? I saw one on YouTube that bolted to the bar studs and cantilevered over to the crank. It worked for him on a 372. I don't want to heat and beat it to split it.

If you use heat and a brass hammer it will come apart easy. When you assemble you'll need to heat it to around 375

 

[dall]

if you use a pin punch to knock the dowel pins to one side it will come apart easier also

 

[Dustin4185]

Thanks fellas. First time being this deep in a saw. Trying to learn as I go. Didn't realize the pins moved. I will try to get it apart Tuesday without pulling out the BFH. Wanting to get everything apart and cleaned up well. I have a small list started already. Would I be better off replacing the fuel line, impulse line, oil pump/driver, and intake boot? Aftermarket or OEM P&C? Rings?