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026 worth $100?

Czed

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Cake saws to work on i would do a thorough cleaning of both and tear them down select the one with the best cases change the seals for new oem if you desire and refresh the topend word of advice take out the t27 screw in the end of the handle to remove black cover and throttle rod some ham fisted people have broken the triggers and I've had to fix them lol any question ask away.
 

Dustin4185

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And as far as fleece/flocked vs nylon mesh vs metal mesh
Worst. Better. Best.
If you can find metal mesh they are the best air flow but don't run flocked with the flocking removed ( large metal screen ) you will suck fines into carb lean out saw score piston.
View attachment 49584
Picture for reference. This is what I found in one I picked up.
I cleaned the filter on this one and it was a fine metal mesh. I just couldn't tell because it hadn't been blown out in a while. The dealer had a nylon mesh he gave me. It was a take off and the guy didn't want it. I will get a flocked one for dusty conditions. The vent is a black tower looking thing with a screw in it. It plugs directly into the tank. I will get more pics tomorrow.
 

stihl_head1982

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Okay, I picked up the 026 today, actually 2 of them! He gave me both for $100 so I didn't try to talk him down. One is pretty good condition considering the age. The other is rough! Both run pretty good. Compression on #1 is 190 and 185 on #2. #2 just looks like it has been rolling around in a truck since it was purchased! I have a few issues to figure out.

1. On the better one, someone has rigged the brake flag with a 1/4-20 bolt. I pulled the bolt out and the case was cracked and had been half heartedly tapped. It works, but not well. What are my options other than a new/used case? I would use #2, but it looks pretty bad. I tried a "nutsert" but it wouldn't hold for me to re-tap. I thought of JB weld or some other epoxy type stuff then redrill where the starter cover hole is and tap to a 4mm x .070. I can rob the good brake flag, bolt, inserts, etc from saw #2 for now. Last resort, I but a 1/4-20 socket head screw and put in it's place. They used a carriage bolt with the head ground square.

Post a picture of this area and we can possibly recommend a fix. More than any other area (for some reason) these screws and their accompany holes are messed up on these saws. You can use an insert. When we see the area and crack we can better recommend.

2. What holds the filter box/cover on? I can turn the black knob and it lock on one saw, but not the other. Is something wrong?

The filter box is held on by a lever on the back of the nob. The round nobs only need be turned a 1/4 turn. The lever catches on the back of the aluminum nuts which hold the filter on the carb stud. For some it seems to be a challenge to get filter aligned so that it seats properly at the bottom. Then push the nob in and turn 1/4 turn -- it should lock there.

3. Saw #1 had a mesh filter with the nuts sticking out, #2 had a flocked filter and the nuts don't stick out. I went to my dealer today and he gave me filter supposedly for it, but it won't fit due to hitting the tank vent (?). Part number was 1121 120 1618. Is there something I have to do to make this filter work? Is the mesh filters ok to use? I don't like them, but if that is what fits, so be it.

The 026 or 1121 series saws used two different types of filters. The old style is slender and taller -- this one will not interfere with the old "black-stack" tank vent. Sounds like he may have given you the newer style which will fit the 026 pro style tank with the low profile tank vent. The MS260 uses the same filter.

4. What pitch chain would you all recommend? Both saws are currently set up for .325. Saw #2 had a .325 rim sprocket, bar, and 3/8 chain!!! The bars were no name Chinese junk, so I will trash them. One had 3/8 Oregon chain and the other had .325 Stihl chain. I have heard the 3/8 Picco was good on the saws, but I am just going to be using it for limbing and small firewood. Should I stay with .325?

The Picco chain is a good set up. The most common for these saws is the .063 x .325. My 026's run a 16" bar with the yellow label chain -- .063 x .325 chain. With a muffler mod they perform quite well.

Overall, I am pretty happy with the purchase. One is the dark orange and the rough one is the bright orange plastic. I will post some pics as soon as I can.

SOUNDS LIKE YOU DID WELL! CONGRATULATIONS!

Thanks
 

stihl_head1982

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Okay, I picked up the 026 today, actually 2 of them! He gave me both for $100 so I didn't try to talk him down. One is pretty good condition considering the age. The other is rough! Both run pretty good. Compression on #1 is 190 and 185 on #2. #2 just looks like it has been rolling around in a truck since it was purchased! I have a few issues to figure out.

1. On the better one, someone has rigged the brake flag with a 1/4-20 bolt. I pulled the bolt out and the case was cracked and had been half heartedly tapped. It works, but not well. What are my options other than a new/used case? I would use #2, but it looks pretty bad. I tried a "nutsert" but it wouldn't hold for me to re-tap. I thought of JB weld or some other epoxy type stuff then redrill where the starter cover hole is and tap to a 4mm x .070. I can rob the good brake flag, bolt, inserts, etc from saw #2 for now. Last resort, I but a 1/4-20 socket head screw and put in it's place. They used a carriage bolt with the head ground square.

2. What holds the filter box/cover on? I can turn the black knob and it lock on one saw, but not the other. Is something wrong?

3. Saw #1 had a mesh filter with the nuts sticking out, #2 had a flocked filter and the nuts don't stick out. I went to my dealer today and he gave me filter supposedly for it, but it won't fit due to hitting the tank vent (?). Part number was 1121 120 1618. Is there something I have to do to make this filter work? Is the mesh filters ok to use? I don't like them, but if that is what fits, so be it.

4. What pitch chain would you all recommend? Both saws are currently set up for .325. Saw #2 had a .325 rim sprocket, bar, and 3/8 chain!!! The bars were no name Chinese junk, so I will trash them. One had 3/8 Oregon chain and the other had .325 Stihl chain. I have heard the 3/8 Picco was good on the saws, but I am just going to be using it for limbing and small firewood. Should I stay with .325?

Overall, I am pretty happy with the purchase. One is the dark orange and the rough one is the bright orange plastic. I will post some pics as soon as I can.

Thanks

Expand my previous reply -- the reply is embedded in your questions.
Would have pulled the trigger on that $100 deal in a heart beat! :D
 

Dustin4185

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I will get some more pics tomorrow. Kids came home and my fun ended! Not really, my son was excited about some new saws. I tried to look at various fixes for the bad hole. The correct way would be to switch to a better case. I haven't looked at the piston on the other saw, it may be just as good and the problems mostly cosmetic. I am not willing to put a fortune in these saws and a hack fix will work for me. These saws will be work saws not shelf queens.
 

Dustin4185

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I think something like and EZ lock or helicoil would would work. They have some with that thread size and pitch. It depends on how oblong that hole is. How hard is it to remove the chain brake handle? I pulled the cover on the clutch side, said oh crap, and put it back on! Looks like a lot of springs and small moving parts to me. Just trying to get better access to the hole.
 

Stihlsmoking

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I think something like and EZ lock or helicoil would would work. They have some with that thread size and pitch. It depends on how oblong that hole is. How hard is it to remove the chain brake handle? I pulled the cover on the clutch side, said oh crap, and put it back on! Looks like a lot of springs and small moving parts to me. Just trying to get better access to the hole.

It's pretty easy take a picture first so you know what it looks like.
Then apply chain brake. To relieve pressure. I use a screwdriver to remove large spring at rear ( it has some tension on it ) after that there's a small c clip on the mechanism that has to be removed then slide both off as it goes through brake flag.
 

drf256

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Looks like you did quite well. You could sell one and make your money back for both.

There's a bunch of different tank vent used on the 026, and there are 2 types of rear covers.

The early covers which you have on both of your saws have a flat/winged/stepped tab inside that locks between the elongated filter bolts and has the round exterior knob. This only will lock on the old filter style.

The later cover is more "V" shaped and has a lever externally, not a round knob. The interior catch has a hole in it that's open on one side to catch the tit on the new style filter to lock it on.

The old filter is tall and narrow with extended bolts and no carb compensation hole. The newer one is wider and always has the extra hole for the carb compensator. The later has flat nuts that sit flush with the filter.

You'll need to plug the comp hole in the new style filter if you choose to use it. I never tried putting the long old nuts in the new style filter to see if they work with the old style cover. They certainly may. You may need to modify the vent for the newer filter. That's 100% if you have the tall black vent.

The old fine metal screen filter is the best for performance. The OEM nylon winter new style filters flow very well as well. The AM Huztl et al nylon filters you can get cheap on eBay are terrible. They flow horribly. Don't waste your money.
 
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Dustin4185

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Since the old style filters are available and my dealer doesnt like to return parts, he is going to swap the filters for me. I will run the metal mesh one that was on it and keep the new flocked one for a spare. The cover locks on it fine. The other saw had a newer filter, but was still narrow enough to pass the vent, but had flush nuts. Not sure what was up with it. It also didn't have a comp hole. Maybe totally wrong filter for that saw. Thanks everyone for your help.
 

drf256

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Since the old style filters are available and my dealer doesnt like to return parts, he is going to swap the filters for me. I will run the metal mesh one that was on it and keep the new flocked one for a spare. The cover locks on it fine. The other saw had a newer filter, but was still narrow enough to pass the vent, but had flush nuts. Not sure what was up with it. It also didn't have a comp hole. Maybe totally wrong filter for that saw. Thanks everyone for your help.
I've never seen the new style without the comp hole, that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

Could be a transitional saw.
 

Dustin4185

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Here is a pic of the messed up hole. It is a little bugger than 1/4" on the outside.
 

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Dustin4185

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I've never seen the new style without the comp hole, that doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

Could be a transitional saw.
Someone may have switched nuts on it as well. It looks identical to the old one only with flush nuts.
 

Basher

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Here is a pic of the messed up hole. It is a little bugger than 1/4" on the outside.

My method would be to weld that hole in solid and then redrill and tap it for the required screw. If that is not feasible then a replacement case would be the next on my list. I really don`t think JB Weld would last for that application, lot of stress transferred to that screw from both the recoil and the brake handle.
 

Dustin4185

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My method would be to weld that hole in solid and then redrill and tap it for the required screw. If that is not feasible then a replacement case would be the next on my list. I really don`t think JB Weld would last for that application, lot of stress transferred to that screw from both the recoil and the brake handle.
What would you use to weld it up with? I was thinking of a cold weld epoxy, but I have a TIG, MIG, stick, and oxy/acetylene torches. I'm just not sure what these cases are made of. I have no experience welding up saw cases.
 

mdavlee

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Big timesert might work and then bushing down.
 

Dustin4185

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Big timesert might work and then bushing down.
EZ Lok has an 8mm insert with the correct 4mm internal threads. Only problem will be getting that hole drilled centered and straight. I can handle the rest. It will be hard to stick the entire saw in my drill press. And it is a big 16" Powermatic.
 

mdavlee

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EZ Lok has an 8mm insert with the correct 4mm internal threads. Only problem will be getting that hole drilled centered and straight. I can handle the rest. It will be hard to stick the entire saw in my drill press. And it is a big 16" Powermatic.
True. Being it's not a high stress part I would jb weld and put the starter on and drill and retap.
 

Jon1212

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Interesting read, and very fortuitous timing for me, as I received a text message from the owner of the Honey Hole where I get most of my better deals. He has an 026 that fell out of a tree attached to the guy using it. The cutter will recover, but the saw needs a new tank handle assembly. I was offered the saw for $50. It is an early red lever, non PRO saw. Even if I spend $60 on a new handle assembly, it seems like a decent enough deal.

What say ye'?
 

Dustin4185

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Interesting read, and very fortuitous timing for me, as I received a text message from the owner of the Honey Hole where I get most of my better deals. He has an 026 that fell out of a tree attached to the guy using it. The cutter will recover, but the saw needs a new tank handle assembly. I was offered the saw for $50. It is an early red lever, non PRO saw. Even if I spend $60 on a new handle assembly, it seems like a decent enough deal.

What say ye'?
Buy it, I ran the saw before I tore it down. I know why people like these little saws!
 
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