Sugihara vs. Tsumura pricewise

[Dub11]

I've taken a few older bars to the bench grinder wire wheel and gave them a healthy dose of WD and a good spin cycle.

 

[3browns]

When it’s time to swap a chain and flip the bar I scrape and brush out the rails and sprocket, spray the bar with brake cleaner and let it work for a minute then I CAREFULLY blast it out with my compressor air gun while keeping a finger on the sprocket so it doesn’t spin up too fast

If I need to dress the rails I do that first and blow it off again and then I will hit both holes with my needle tip Dualco grease gun while rotating the sprocket in both directions

On my bars without grease holes I do all the above and then drizzle some bar oil in the tip and work the sprocket until I feel the oil get into the rollers

I am just a hobby cutter with plenty of time on my hands and going over the top in maintaining my gear is all part of the fun

 

[Skeans1]

I know on the harvester bars we’ve always been told to grease the nose or sprocket before being run, afterwards they’ll introduce junk into the bearing. My falling saws I’ve followed the same policy, for cleaning the rails I’m cheap and like a hack saw blade with a pick for the oil holes.


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[jmester]

Pic of current tsumura tip and old stock tip

 

[jmester]

If you grease your bar tips regularly what about the drive sprocket bearing? Has just as much load , heat and abuse as the tip. Oregon says to change out the drum every two chains and grease the bearing every time you remove the drum. If the drive sprocket bearing handles all that and is not greased regularly seems to me the tip can handle the same.

Don't mind the above paragraph it is a bunch of garbage. I was not thinking.

If what you are doing works for you then keep on rolling. No need to try and reinvent the wheel. I carry a ground down Stihl adjusting screwdriver in the woods to clean out my groove and oil hole plus that way I can also adjust the tune if need be.

 

[jmester]

The bottom one is how they come from Stihl. The top one is ground to fit the groove in the bar and fit a carb screw with limiter caps. I use a small piece of fuel line to cover the tip so it does not stab me in the leg

 

[Cat 525]

Those two extra rivets in the nose would sure support that sprocket a lot better! Reducing Two Rivers probably saves them $0.15 in the time it takes to drill the holes and punched the rivets in!

 

[CR888]

View attachment 151162 Pic of current tsumura tip and old stock tip

I'd guess the 'old stock' tip is not the same as your new one next to it. Are they both 3/8 pitch?? My guess is the old one is .325 or .404.
Nose sprocket bearings have completely different load requirements to clutch drum bearings FWIW. Think how the system works, 'when' does the clutch drum bearing function.

 

[deye223]

I'd guess the 'old stock' tip is not the same as your new one next to it. Are they both 3/8 pitch?? My guess is the old one is .325 or .404.
Nose sprocket bearings have completely different load requirements to clutch drum bearings FWIW. Think how the system works, 'when' does the clutch drum bearing function.

when the chain aint moving ...

 

[Ronaldo]

when the chain aint moving ...

Correct. At idle, basically.

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[jmester]

I'd guess the 'old stock' tip is not the same as your new one next to it. Are they both 3/8 pitch?? My guess is the old one is .325 or .404.
Nose sprocket bearings have completely different load requirements to clutch drum bearings FWIW. Think how the system works, 'when' does the clutch drum bearing function.

Both tips are 3/8" .050-.058 gauge.

You are right. It only is moving at idle.

 

[deye223]

plus if you keep greasing it it all ends up on the clutch shoes

 

[3browns]

plus if you keep greasing it it all ends up on the clutch shoes

If I am in that area of the saw I pull the clutch cover, clean the bore of the cover, the crankshaft, and the bearing and grease before reassembly

But your point is valid; if there was ever a place to go lightly on the grease this is it

 

[CR888]

If you ever pull apart a Stihl nose sprocket that has no grease hole they are a different design to conventional nose sprockets. There are thin round metal discs that encase the bearings. Often folks who like to grease drill a hole in these noses.....I have & would not advise it. As I use olive & canola oil for bar oil, I grease nose sprockets at the end of a work day after a quick clean. I ain't taking a grease gun out & doing it every hour like its recommended.

 

[Finnrpm]

It seems that husqvarna took greasing the drum bearing quite seriously a while back......

no need to remove the clucth for greasing

 

[RI Chevy]

What model? Looks like the old 2xx series.

 

[huskyboy]

Lots of husky saws have a grease hole

 

[RI Chevy]

I do not know Hooskie

 

[Finnrpm]

What model? Looks like the old 2xx series.

242xpg

I do not know Hooskie

... remember this is also is from sweden!!

 

[3browns]

That’s just wrong on so many levels...