husqvarna 55 clutch parts questions

[WCfirewoodguy]

I am trying to order a new clutch sprocket for this clutch drum. Chainsaw is a 1992 as serial # is 2150334 which according to information I found makes it a 1992 55 (says 55 on serial # label). I bought the saw used in or around 2006. It had a 20" bar on it and it was a Husqvarna labeled bar. Everything looks pretty good, I pulled the muffler and not much scoring, a teeny bit on the intake side looking through the exhaust port, very fine lines in cylinder. Has lots of compression.

Anyways, trying to order a new sprocket for this clutch drum, and clutch. Part # is 5053036-52 and when I look that part number up it says it was for a .325 clutch, but it's the same sprocket spline size I think? I don't know that's why I am asking here. There are some used clutch drums on Ebay, but no brand new OEM clutch parts, it's says NLA or "No Longer Available". There are some China parts on Ebay, but I would rather just swap the sprocket and maybe get a new bearing as well.

Anyone know what the deal is with this clutch and part #? Or if I can upgrade to a newer clutch assembly? The air filter is the older snap in type and has no screw, and also it has no "air injection" it's the earlier model 55. Pretty sure its the open port cylinder. I have posted other pictures recently on the "what did you buy today" forum, but I'll repost here of the saw, it's been used and abused but I have new parts and don't want to run the new chain on this sprocket.

The piston actually looks okay, I had it set really rich before I took it apart it would appear. That's just oil on it, it's not scored at all on the exhaust side. I have not pulled the cylinder. Might be next in line. For now though I am just trying to order a new sprocket and maybe just replace the entire clutch.

Does that look like I have a blown seal by the clutch washer or was that some kind of plastic seal?

I suppose I could do a full rebuild on it, I have never split a case before but I've done about everything else there is to do as far as dismantling!

Thanks for any advice or help with the clutch issues and the saw in general. At this point I'm keeping the saw, and that's the original piston and cylinder almost 100% positive on that. From 1992.

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

Here is the exact same clutch drum on ebay with a .325 sprocket but it's not OEM I don't think. I can't use .325, as all my chain and bars are 3/8" and .050. That is the same part # as my clutch drum. Same drum as mine, looks like he cleaned it all up. Currently is for sale on Ebay if anyone might have an interest, I think mine is about the same condition as this one.

I would rather just buy the whole new OEM clutch assembly if I could find one, or replace the parts that need to be replaced.


Here's the clutch, probably also the original. It's just loosely attached for taking pictures basically.

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

There's the woodpile I cut some of it with this saw before it crapped out on me after I tried to adjust the carburetor! A lot of those rounds had been already cut by a tree service and I just got them on Craigslist.! Figured someone might ask about that, I live on the river too, but not really some rich guy! Why would I have this old saw if I was? Lol... I am getting to be an old guy...

 

[Junk Meister]

Rim Sprockets are common to replace. Not sure of the nickel rule of thumb but 17MM is small 19 MM I think is medium (ID of rim ignore the splines) Buy a Husky or a Stihl or a Chinee .375"x7 one, grease your bearing and put it back together and put that saw to work, (I assume your bearing is ok.
Powermate is an OREGON product.
Some one will come along and explain your serial stuff.

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

I was able to find aftermarket rim sprockets and it does look pretty common to buy, just like chains or bars. Oregon has kind of a lock on the Power Mate sprockets and bearings, made in Canada I am pretty sure. Thanks for chiming in, I probably should be using .325 chain but my saw came with the 3/8 .050 and a 20" bar. More standard is an 18" bar, with .325 chain.

Looks like its the same clutch drum for both the .325 and the 3/8" sprockets, and I think I have the bearing number figured out as well. The OEM parts just don't seem to be available anymore. Probably why I can't find the right part numbers...

 

[Woodwackr]

Husqvarna Chainsaw Parts Lookup

Husqvarna Parts | Husqvarna Parts Lookup Download illustrated parts list for your Husqvarna chainsaw model below to find OEM part n...

www.barrettsmallengine.com

Find the part #s you need and post them.
A few of us have some nos parts.

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

Husqvarna Chainsaw Parts Lookup

Husqvarna Parts | Husqvarna Parts Lookup Download illustrated parts list for your Husqvarna chainsaw model below to find OEM part n...

www.barrettsmallengine.com

Find the part #s you need and post them.
A few of us have some nos parts.

Thanks for the link to the part numbers, the wierd thing is that part # 5053036-52 is not on the correct diagram for the year and serial # of my chainsaw. I am going to keep looking at the newer model saws to see if the clutch was swapped out at some point. I can't remember much about the guy I got the saw from except he was way out in the middle of nowhere with big Coastal Firs everywhere, WA State. He had the 3/8" 7 tooth powermate sprocket on the saw as this has always been sort of my emergency backup saw before I blew up my 372xpw and had to get a new 50mm piston for it and it's all ready to re-assemble now. So the 55 is sort of the next project and I'll start working on the 372xp, I was able to find a OEM crankcase, with new seals, crankshaft,etc... still need to rebuild the carburetor and fuel lines, before I fire it up again.


What I am really trying to find out is if I can swap or upgrade this clutch to something more readily available than parts for the 1992 55 saw, clutch wise. I think the drums might be the same, and there's really not very much information I can find on the clutch parts, which probably indicates it's a no-brainer part swap, and the part diagrams you sent me might help me to figure it out. I have been able to find complete clutch drums, with a new bearing, and a new sprocket for about 50$ price range, NOS OEM parts. Really have to research.

For my year Serial # using the link you sent me I have the incorrect part # on my clutch drum. It should be 5053036-94. if I google that part # I get the .325 clutch assembly not the 3/8" assembly also part # has been "superseded to 640200098" which is helpful in a way. (see next post)
What I need to find is the same part # yet with the 3/8" 7 tooth sprocket! I am thinking that my saw has a "non-OEM" clutch sprocket!

So my focus should be is if my .325 clutch drum is compatible with a 3/8" OEM (

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

So those part numbers googled led me to an old familiar link to "mymowerparts.com" which I have used to order old briggs and stratton 8hp carburetor parts in the past. Here is a snip from that site:

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

Appears this is for the clutch drum and the sprocket only, though but it's a step in the right direction! I am documenting this for other 55 model owners with the same clutch part # issues. It might be old school to a lot of more experienced chainsaw technicians, my apologies. Here is what happens if I click on the above "larger image" link.

 

[Nitris223]

The husky 55 has been sold with .325 and 3/8 pitch bar and chain. If its got a rim sprocket then just get a new rim sprocket. If the saw came with a spur sprocket then you have to replace the whole drum as one.
If your drum is still in working condition and locking up the chain when the brake is snapped then just buy a new rim sprocket in 3/8 pitch.
I have 4 husky 55's , 3 are 325 pitch and one is 3/8. That's the way I bought it. When the sprocket is warn and and bar is worn, I'll replace with components for 325 as all my other saws 60cc and down have 325 bar and chain to keep things simple.

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

I am using Oregon Full Comp Chain, "OREGON 72EXL Saw Chain (.050 Gauge - 3/8 Pitch - Full Chisel / Standard Sequence)", I guess I will just stay with my stock clutch drum, stock OEM clutch assembly, and just get these parts off Ebay, they are readily available right now!

So that's the answer, I don't think I need to mess with the drum or the clutch assembly, it appears as if the parts are interchangeable.

Also, OEM is not really necessary on these parts, I still have my stock OEM needle bearing if it doesn't work, that bearing in the pic is only 5$ on ebay. So I'm all set, thanks again for the parts diagrams. Those really helped a lot. I think the parts from K&T parts house might be aftermarket parts, as they don't show a part #. Probably would work, but I'll just go with my original parts.

So this thread can wind down. I can go order sprockets and a new needle bearing off Ebay. Also found a new piston, but mine seems okay. I might swap out the ring (single ring piston) and put a new gasket in, sand the cylinder with #600 grit, and call her good.

Happy chainsawing, stay safe! Hope this helps the next person, those parts diagrams have the right part #'s to search for new sprockets and needle bearings, and the only clutches I could find are all aftermarket, but are made my New West parts, it would appear.

Note the "7" on the clutch assembly, that seems to indicate it's being made by New West. Probably good enough if my clutch ever goes out.

 

[Woodwackr]

Thanks for the link to the part numbers, the wierd thing is that part # 5053036-52 is not on the correct diagram for the year and serial # of my chainsaw. I am going to keep looking at the newer model saws to see if the clutch was swapped out at some point. I can't remember much about the guy I got the saw from except he was way out in the middle of nowhere with big Coastal Firs everywhere, WA State. He had the 3/8" 7 tooth powermate sprocket on the saw as this has always been sort of my emergency backup saw before I blew up my 372xpw and had to get a new 50mm piston for it and it's all ready to re-assemble now. So the 55 is sort of the next project and I'll start working on the 372xp, I was able to find a OEM crankcase, with new seals, crankshaft,etc... still need to rebuild the carburetor and fuel lines, before I fire it up again.


What I am really trying to find out is if I can swap or upgrade this clutch to something more readily available than parts for the 1992 55 saw, clutch wise. I think the drums might be the same, and there's really not very much information I can find on the clutch parts, which probably indicates it's a no-brainer part swap, and the part diagrams you sent me might help me to figure it out. I have been able to find complete clutch drums, with a new bearing, and a new sprocket for about 50$ price range, NOS OEM parts. Really have to research.

For my year Serial # using the link you sent me I have the incorrect part # on my clutch drum. It should be 5053036-94. if I google that part # I get the .325 clutch assembly not the 3/8" assembly also part # has been "superseded to 640200098" which is helpful in a way. (see next post)
What I need to find is the same part # yet with the 3/8" 7 tooth sprocket! I am thinking that my saw has a "non-OEM" clutch sprocket!

So my focus should be is if my .325 clutch drum is compatible with a 3/8" OEM (
View attachment 414424

The drums will be the same. The only changing part is the rim. Those part #s reflect a “kit”, not just the drum. You can put any rim on the drum that is a sm spline for a Husky…3/8, 3/8LP, .325. As long as you bar tip matches you are fine.

Madsen’s has them…I just ordered some

 

[Woodwackr]

I am using Oregon Full Comp Chain, "OREGON 72EXL Saw Chain (.050 Gauge - 3/8 Pitch - Full Chisel / Standard Sequence)", I guess I will just stay with my stock clutch drum, stock OEM clutch assembly, and just get these parts off Ebay, they are readily available right now!

So that's the answer, I don't think I need to mess with the drum or the clutch assembly, it appears as if the parts are interchangeable.

Also, OEM is not really necessary on these parts, I still have my stock OEM needle bearing if it doesn't work, that bearing in the pic is only 5$ on ebay. So I'm all set, thanks again for the parts diagrams. Those really helped a lot. I think the parts from K&T parts house might be aftermarket parts, as they don't show a part #. Probably would work, but I'll just go with my original parts.

So this thread can wind down. I can go order sprockets and a new needle bearing off Ebay. Also found a new piston, but mine seems okay. I might swap out the ring (single ring piston) and put a new gasket in, sand the cylinder with #600 grit, and call her good.

Happy chainsawing, stay safe! Hope this helps the next person, those parts diagrams have the right part #'s to search for new sprockets and needle bearings, and the only clutches I could find are all aftermarket, but are made my New West parts, it would appear.

Note the "7" on the clutch assembly, that seems to indicate it's being made by New West. Probably good enough if my clutch ever goes out.

Pic shows a standard spline, ie, large. You need a sm spline rim.
Cage bearing will be the same.

I may have an Oe, nos clutch if you need one. But, I’d bet your clutch is fine.

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

Rim Sprockets are common to replace. Not sure of the nickel rule of thumb but 17MM is small 19 MM I think is medium (ID of rim ignore the splines) Buy a Husky or a Stihl or a Chinee .375"x7 one, grease your bearing and put it back together and put that saw to work, (I assume your bearing is ok.
Powermate is an OREGON product.
Some one will come along and explain your serial stuff.

Hey thanks for the common sense advice, I figured I was reinventing the wheel on this whole clutch deal! Found some parts, and putting a new bearing in there for good measure. Just needs a new sprocket basically. Might need to put a new seal in there is what I am thinking. Looks like the old one is pretty much gone and the washer is keeping things sealed up basically.

Pic shows a standard spline, ie, large. You need a sm spline rim.
Cage bearing will be the same.

I may have an Oe, nos clutch if you need one. But, I’d bet your clutch is fine.

Wrong part number, I need to fix that picture, good eye. Correct rim Oregon part # is 18720 I ordered 2 of those yesterday from a guy on Ebay in Arlington, WA. Forgot about Madsen's, I could drive there if I had to in about 2 hours each way! They sold me some bars and chain a long time ago before everything was online. They are still a bit old fashioned that way even though they have a website, pretty sure they have walk in chainsaw services, yet probably a turnaround time of a few days or so.

I ordered a case splitter as well, going to pull the cylinder and just go through the entire saw. Got a pressure vacuum MityVac on Ebay yesterday for 19.99 Plue shipping, lucked out on this deal! Look really close at that 2nd picture it's got the lever to switch from vacuum to pressure. Most of these are plastic, this one looks like it's metal. Might need some O-rings or something, guy was a mechanic though, he probably made sure they were in good shape. He's selling all kinds of tools on Ebay. I think it's the same one in this video, gauge looks the same anyways.

I kind of think this saw needs new bearings and new oil seals. It's probably been untouched since 1992. Maybe just needs seals for good measure.

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

19.99 RONCO vaccum pump! Lol...

 

[Woodwackr]

Stihl sm spline rims and ALL others are NOT compatible. There is a 1mm difference. If you have husqvarna the Oregon Powermate are fine but will not work on sm spline Stihl saws. Stihl rims are too small for huskys.

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

It's been awhile but I would never use Stihl parts on my husqvarna, maybe a bar and chain if it matched up perfectly. I would use Stihl oil and Bar Oil, and I have read that some people swap out rings and pistons on certain saws, I think it might even be the 46 mm's, but I just go with Husqvarna OEM whenever possible. I blew up my 372 XPW and probably had worn out clutch parts, and an old chain but I was sharpening it often.

Old gas might have been an issue with that saw. So now I don't take any chances, maybe non-oem fuel filters, stuff like that. I found some used OEM plastic parts and I might even throw down for a new OEM Cylinder Kit with the piston as the new ones are closed ports. I think I just need a new piston ring, and maybe not even that... I haven't pulled the cylinder yet, want to keep everything oiled up until I am ready to do a full rebuild, with new seals, (OEM), new bearings, etc, I even found me a Turkey Roaster to heat up the case halves in at the local Value Village! It's almost too nice for heating up crankcases in, the ladies at the store were not happy when I told them it was "chainsaw parts!" Lol...

11$ for the Turkey Roaster + tax and they go for 80$ used on Ebay!

Now I need another saw to work on since I'm all set up for rebuilds, I got a case splitter, MityVac, Tachometer, new rubber, filters, clutch sprockets, chains, bars, ready to go. Problem is I got enough firewood already for next winter! I'm maxed out on woodshed space...

So it all might go into mothballs for awhile...

Thanks for your help everyone and I think the clutch drum is the same, and the bearing, just the rim sprocket has to match the bar and chain. Most people already know all this stuff, I think the saw was all original, but not 100% positive. I'll know when I pull the Cylinder.