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IEL-Pioneer thread

Lee H

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Does anyone have the carb setting specs for the RA model? Having trouble tuning the top end. Has pretty good pull to it though. Especially with a 32 inch .404 chain.

I always start at 1-1/4 out on both and go from there. Start with the low first
to get it to idle then the Hi to get the top end then back to the Low. Pretty
easy to get them right unless it needs a carb kit or the saw has an air leak
some where.
 

TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic

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My issue is this RA has a carb with 3 settings, 1 low and 1 high on the side of the carb and then the main jet on the other. Been messing with the two High jets and seem to have it close though, but it seems to lack a bit of power.
 

Lee H

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What carb is it. I have never seen a carb with 3 fuel adjusting screws.
 

Lee H

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I thought the same thing Pete. But it should have been tight tighty.
 

Lee H

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Well, That's a new one on me. I ain't neva seen a carb with two hi screws.
I'll take a look at my RA and see what it has.
 

Basher

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That type of HL was used on the RA`s fairly commonly, the T shaped high speed adjuster was referred to as the, alternate main adjustment needle. That needle can be left in the closed position and the carb tuned with the two regular adjustment screws and if the saw started running too lean during a heavy prolonged cut the operator could open the T handle one a 1/8 to 1/4 turn to richen up the mix without having to use a screwdriver on the regular main jet. I learned this from our original IEL - Pioneer dealer`s mechanic during the early 60`s. He also claimed the saw would run and act normally if one was to completely close the regular slotted adjustment screw and just tune and run the saw on the T handled adjuster, I have done so on several of my older saws that has the 3 adjuster screws.
 

TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic

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That type of HL was used on the RA`s fairly commonly, the T shaped high speed adjuster was referred to as the, alternate main adjustment needle. That needle can be left in the closed position and the carb tuned with the two regular adjustment screws and if the saw started running too lean during a heavy prolonged cut the operator could open the T handle one a 1/8 to 1/4 turn to richen up the mix without having to use a screwdriver on the regular main jet. I learned this from our original IEL - Pioneer dealer`s mechanic during the early 60`s. He also claimed the saw would run and act normally if one was to completely close the regular slotted adjustment screw and just tune and run the saw on the T handled adjuster, I have done so on several of my older saws that has the 3 adjuster screws.
Good to know, Thanks Basher! You da man lol
 

Basher

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Reading some of the previous posts, concerning setting the HL carb on the RA, set the L needle 3/4 turn out and the H at 1 1/4 turns out, start the saw and set the throttle stop screw so the chain stops turning, a little chain creep is allowable for the heavier clutch shoes with the linings but only a tad of creep. If the saw acts a little boggy off throttle then open the L screw a 1/8 turn or so but doing so will affect idle and the engine might load up while idling and stall more often.
 
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TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic

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Thanks Basher, got the top end tuned pretty well. Closed the high jet on the side and am just using the t screw jet. Been working pretty well. Leaned out on me once so I may turn out the h screw out a little. Will post a cutting video soon. Here's some pictures of it in its natural territory. Have to say it's my favorite big old saw thus far. 007.JPG 008.JPG 009.JPG 010.JPG
 

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Thanks Basher, got the top end tuned pretty well. Closed the high jet on the side and am just using the t screw jet. Been working pretty well. Leaned out on me once so I may turn out the h screw out a little. Will post a cutting video soon. Here's some pictures of it in its natural territory. Have to say it's my favorite big old saw thus far.

Looks good TJ, they are sturdy old saws, our old ones seen a lot of hard use but are still ticking over these days. They were made at the time when molds were made and set up by hand, took a lot of skill and they are the last of that method for casting body parts. The next year model became known as the 600 and they were die cast, first of that series.
 
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TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic

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I love this saw, top end is tuned only with the t screw, thinking of backing the h screw out 1/2 a turn to help it keep from leaning out. Runs great though. Need to fix the oiler as it takes about 12 pumps before I get oil. Should have a buff thumb though. haha

 

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I love this saw, top end is tuned only with the t screw, thinking of backing the h screw out 1/2 a turn to help it keep from leaning out. Runs great though. Need to fix the oiler as it takes about 12 pumps before I get oil. Should have a buff thumb though. haha


Looks good TJ, thanks for posting the vid.
You will know your RA is in perfect running shape if it can be idled down to 850 RPM, few can be at this age but a couple of mine can still do it.
 

TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic

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Looks good TJ, thanks for posting the vid.
You will know your RA is in perfect running shape if it can be idled down to 850 RPM, few can be at this age but a couple of mine can still do it.
I'll give it a try, the carb still needs to be properly gone through. I have a complete kit for it, but haven't wanted to pull the carb yet. haha
 
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