N8S MS361, Doc's prescription

[NateSaw]

So about a month ago I found a lathe on Craigslist. Is was a great deal on a Grizzly G0602, it included a 1956 Craftsman King Seeley 150 drill press, a belt grinder, and came with some tooling. It was the deal I had been looking for, so I wanted to pounce but I needed some muscle to go get it, as they are over 400lbs. I couldn't find help. @Eduardo K was out of town on the other side of the country. I told him about the deal. He practically got off the plane from Oregon and came to help. I simply wouldn't have my shop setup the way it is had he not saved the day. He had already asked me to work his 361 in for porting.. This is a quick thread on his saw. Thanks Eddie!

 

[NateSaw]

I used Doc's formula for the second time on this saw. But this time full in. I had a couple 50a carbs from 461's here and had been wanting to try making one work for this chassis. So I swapped choke and throttle shafts. The choke shaft had to be widened to accept the bigger butterfly on the 50a. The whole goal here is to have the bigger bore carb body of said 50a. I also drilled the carb body for impulse provision. This way the stock 361 intake boot could be used. The 361 compensator plate, and bowl plate get swapped over to the 50a as well.
Impulse drilled! They make it easy to intersect from inside as there's a flat in the casting. The outside port was on me so I measured carefully and used a center punch.

 

[NateSaw]

I'm sure by now I have a reputation of using 461 airhorns. It seemed natural to do it again. Worked on the last 361... It requires a LOT of massaging. The saws run well with them... But for all I know, these don't make a difference. But hell, it's metal. It's a velocity stack, and I'm a squirrel so one went on it.
Let the nips and tucks begin...

 

[NateSaw]

 

[Gullet]

Hats off to @Eduardo K!

 

[NateSaw]

After all the massaging it's ready for the filter adjustments...
You can hardly tell it was, well , what it was.

 

[NateSaw]

Here are a few places that need to be relieved on the air filter.
I make sure to debur all the slag made by cutting.

 

[NateSaw]

There's one spot on the filter base that may need some room made. It's real tight, so I made room.
That little gusset on the top of that tab. Some material has to be removed from the airhorn flange anyway. Pick yer poison.

 

[NateSaw]

It would have been serendipitous for Eddie's cylinder to have been the first one cut on this lathe... But alas I had to finish a 660 to make time for this one... But, the way I see it, Eddie's was the first one on the lathe after I proved it could hold tolerance!

 

[NateSaw]

Machining and porting done, time to move on to the piston.

 

[NateSaw]

The usual diet... Opening windows, removing casting flash... I found that mahle likes big fat numbers on the insides of the skirt corners... They be gone... I promise it's a mahle.

 

[NateSaw]

Eduardo got me an asian muff to play with. The oem units are like their own little fuggin fort Knox. These Asian units are skinny. And light! I forgot to take pics but I scaled them. Anyhow they come apart easier. The chineseum approach to assembly is barely. Don't worry I put em back together with less bs and more weld.

 

[NateSaw]

Bathtime and pull some stickers...
I've been using a big storage tote with 5 gallons of hot water and a sh*load of dawn platinum. Gets em clean af and doesn't leave a film. I'm interested in you other fellers cleaning methods.

 

[NateSaw]

Assembly... First thing I like to do is heat tape whatever I'm going to. Once my dirty dik beaters get on these things nothing sticks. I don't usually use muff gaskets but I always put the shield back. It's a heat sink AND part of the air ducting. I've found the gaskets leak more often then not once the exhaust port flange is thinned. Nevermind the chineseum muffler... I use stove pipe rtv. Seems to be working wonderfully on all the saws I've put it on. One thing I like about it, is when possible, (not on this saw cause it's a muff can, not two halves), a qtip to smooth the squish at the port flange smoothes it and transitions wonderfully. On the sealed can saws I just go as sparingly as I can. So as not to have a bead intrude into the port.
Caber ring. Gotta lose the bottom one.

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Bathtime and pull some stickers...
I've been using a big storage tote with 5 gallons of hot water and a sh*load of dawn platinum. Gets em clean af and doesn't leave a film. I'm interested in you other fellers cleaning methods.

Looks like that sticker needs to changed to 32:1 mix only..

Machining and porting done, time to move on to the piston.

Must be some super secret squirrely lower transfer work.......

Looks good!! I "need" a lathe and mill.

 

[NateSaw]

Naturally, I wanted to play with my new knurling tool... Made a filter cover thumb screw...
And the gunning sight... I use this almost daily at work. I like em crisp and visible. I'm finding an easy solution in roughing them with a flat razor blade. I hold it square to the surface and scrape carefully. Like planing I guess. Then just whip out the sharpie and DON'T FUGG UP! This frp seems to hold color when slightly scuffed.

 

[NateSaw]

I can't not.... Although I'm the wiser now on doing this to all saws. The 362 has a duct pumping air into the box off the flywheel. Don't put holes in that like this hasty hack. @tree monkey has a good video discussion on it. I took the turbo off my bosses. Anyway, on these old skoolers, it's a gain. I block off the hole that sucks air directly off the chip guard.

 

[NateSaw]

Sign my work...
And the muff hides and peaks pretty good. Semi sleeper.

 

[NateSaw]

 

[NateSaw]

It was pretty chilly the other day. The wood was frozen. That red oak I was cutting on was punky in spots. Idk how good that video is, but time will tell. Today I went up a size on the high jet. Per Doc's warning, it certainly was at 1.5 turns out, and frankly, didn't do *s-worde any further out... So mote to come. Hopefully Eddie running it.