Homemade Reduced Weight Bar

[junkman]

Would cost more than an aluminum insert ,but saw heads will pay out the nose if the part works better and is shiney.

 

[Fifelaker]

I have never spent more than $23.84 rebuilding a saw. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

If you wouldn't spend all of your money on Bag Balm, you could afford to buy saw parts.

 

[DSS]

^^^^^

Reported

 

[Jon1212]

^^^^^

Reported

^^^^^^^

IGNORED! (with prejudice)

 

[DSS]

Great. Nothing worse than a moderator with a bong

 

[Jon1212]

Great. Nothing worse than a moderator with a bong

 

[CR888]

I bet a titanium insert would be light plus stiff

In my limited experience I think the primary focus for a filler is not to add strength but to simply stay put in the cutouts and perhaps be resistant to oil/fuel.

 

[junkman]

In my limited experience I think the primary focus for a filler is not to add strength but to simply stay put in the cutouts and perhaps be resistant to oil/fuel.

On longer bars stiffness is important, reduced weight bars I have used wobble or flex more than a full steel bar.

 

[Isaac]

On longer bars stiffness is important, reduced weight bars I have used wobble or flex more than a full steel bar.

How long is long? Is the wobble noticeable enough to steer away from a long light weight bar. I was looking at a 36" sugihara.


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[Jon1212]

When drilling a bar for different mounts, you don't want to use high RPM because the bar will actually harden as you work it. Once it's work hardened, you're hosed. If you're going to use a bimetal I would recommend staying at low RPM on a drill press and using plenty of oil. The annular cutter is made for that job, but if you can oil it do it, and still keep the RPMs lower so you don't have to fight the material as much.

Tim,

When you say, "low rpm's" what do you feel is an acceptable range?

I would imagine keeping the pressure light is a good idea as well.

Should I video my cutting, and have Chris_PA verify my RPM's with his Soundwave Tachometer App?

 

[huskihl]

Does a good bimetal hole saw cut a bar? How hard are they?

I know this was mentioned above, but I don't think a standard hole saw will cut through a bar once, let alone 10 or 15 times. But it would be pretty cool to be proven wrong in this case.

 

[TimRD]

Tim,

When you say, "low rpm's" what do you feel is an acceptable range?

I would imagine keeping the pressure light is a good idea as well.

Should I video my cutting, and have Chris_PA verify my RPM's with his Soundwave Tachometer App?

Most recently I was looking through some paperwork for Granberg stuff related to dtilling for an auxiliary oiler and they said stay below 80 rpm.

That slow and you can just count it haha!

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[Jon1212]

Most recently I was looking through some paperwork for Granberg stuff related to dtilling for an auxiliary oiler and they said stay below 80 rpm.

That slow and you can just count it haha!

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Good grief! 80rpm's......I'll hang a 5 lb weight from the press handle, set a bottle of cutting oil to a slow drip, and go fix myself a sandwich....

 

[Wagnerwerks]

I actually try to plasma cut holes in an old bar tonight and it went pretty poorly. The layers screwed up the cuts.

 

[TimRD]

Good grief! 80rpm's......I'll hang a 5 lb weight from the press handle, set a bottle of cutting oil to a slow drip, and go fix myself a sandwich....

Yeah, not setting the world on fire. You might want to start with baking the bread first.

I would say a shop press would be a good option, but if the bars are a sort of honeycomb in the middle that may not be good. If it's solid you're made in the shade.

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[Philbert]

I actually try to plasma cut holes in an old bar tonight and it went pretty poorly. The layers screwed up the cuts.

Laminated bar?

I assumed that Jon was planning on drilling solid bars.

Philbert

 

[Red97]

Jon,

Being a brazed carbide, you can go a smidgen faster, 100 ish max. But be careful of chatter. Take the tips off the teeth in no time, once that happens the cutter is pretty much done. .004-.008 feed per rpm should keep the chatter down. But a sturdy setup is highly recommended. And a belt driven drill press might not be up to the task.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

I keep having dreams about taking the temper out of a bar, working it up with some holes in it, and then quenching it in a vat of oil.

I've been watching a lot of forged in fire on the history channel.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Laminated bar?

I assumed that Jon was planning on drilling solid bars.

Philbert

Yeah. I was just testing..

 

[Philbert]

If I had access to a plasma cutter, I would do a lot of 'testing' too !

Philbert