DSS
widebody
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I have never spent more than $23.84 rebuilding a saw. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
J.B. Weld is only about $6. What did you blow the other $17.84 on?I have never spent more than $23.84 rebuilding a saw. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
It was a stihl so half of the nuts and bolts were missingJ.B. Weld is only about $6. What did you blow the other $17.84 on?
Philbert
Yeah, but it came with $37.17 worth of anchor chain, so technically, you're money ahead.It was a stihl so half of the nuts and bolts were missing
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You'd be better off using west systems 2 part epoxy. It's for boats but I use it in woodworking for filling voids and knots in live edge tables etc. I think this would be the easiest solution to fill the bars.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/?redirect=false
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This is what I was going to suggest. ButIi was also wondering if it would be too brittle. That being said, I've used a ton of this stuff on boats and never had it crack. Also use it to finish fiberglass columns on commercial buildings. It's pretty good stuff.
I have thought about this, but would be curious to read some specs on temp, and oil resistance.
I have some plastic sheeting I'm going to use. It's almost the thickness of a bar. I've worked a lot with epoxies and while I'm sure west system has something for this.... I wouldn't spend the $$$. Plastics should be ideal if we can find a good way to mate the two.
Does a good bimetal hole saw cut a bar? How hard are they?
its a good idea, can you remember what type micro baloons?Back to JB Weld - we used to mix 'micro balloons' into epoxy, when building kayaks, to make a lighter weight filler material.
Got them from the West System epoxy guys.its a good idea, can you remember what type micro baloons?
Couldn't find anything about oil resistance
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That would be the ticket. You could press it in then.I bet a titanium insert would be light plus stiff