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Homemade Reduced Weight Bar

Discussion in 'Chainsaws' started by Jon1212, Aug 10, 2016.

  1. Jon1212

    Jon1212 Birch! Please..... Staff Member

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    I am thinking of doing some weight reduction on some of my longer (32-42") guide bars, and am looking for advice.
    I was considering buying a carbide tipped hole saw for taking out some of the mass.

    Thoughts on this approach?
     
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  2. Chainsaw Jim

    Chainsaw Jim #fartedinthebandwagon

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    Check out explosion cladding. You can bond aluminum to steel that way.
    Maybe it can be done to cut outs.
     
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  3. DSS

    DSS widebody

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    If you're gonna do a few, buy an annular cutter. More better than a hole saw.
     
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  4. drf256

    drf256 Dr. Richard Cranium (“RC” to Muh pals)

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    IIRC, Treemonkey did a thread on AS about it. I believe he used an endmill and carved out the center section of the bar on both sides, but left some of the middle. Then filled the entire area on both side with JB weld.
     
  5. CR888

    CR888 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    I am no metals406 but I have made some. I used a 61/2" angle grinder and cut off wheel for metal to make cuts parallel to the bar rails. I made much bigger cutouts than the Sugi or Tsumura ones. They could really make their bars much lighter and not saccrifice much strength or rigidness. I then used a 1/4" carbide burr in a die grinder to round off the ends of the cut out sections. My bro is a ship builder and has some two part epoxy or fiberglass resin he will fill the holes with. Go big on the sections Jon don't be worried about strength, I was amazed how solid they turned out after so much stock was removed. I am gonna do a 36" Tsumura next, at this stage I've done a 16" a 20" & 24" in solid Tsumuras and a 18" laminate 'E' bar. Well worth the effort you get a much lighter result than the factory lights. Tree monkey removed one big section I think, I remove 3-6 sections to keep strength. But the tree monkey way would be strong, but maybe not on a 36".
     
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  6. calebng15

    calebng15 Super OPE Member

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  7. Redfin

    Redfin Meh...

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    Gourmet donuts are not equitable trade fodder for light weight bars?
     
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  8. Jon1212

    Jon1212 Birch! Please..... Staff Member

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    Did you finish the outside edge of the cutout section at 45° from both sides of the bar?
     
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  9. Jon1212

    Jon1212 Birch! Please..... Staff Member

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    20160515_193617.jpg
    Got this 32" in a stack of used bars, from the Doughnut drop off. So to answer your question, yes.
     
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  10. junkman

    junkman Crush it

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    I think Northman logging on a/s in the logging section did this a while back ,he worked at a machine shop with lots of toys though .
     
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  11. Redfin

    Redfin Meh...

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  12. Jon1212

    Jon1212 Birch! Please..... Staff Member

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  13. USMC615

    USMC615 God...Country...Corps

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  14. DSS

    DSS widebody

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    Dearest long haired hippy,

    Yes, that's a good length for drilling bars. As far as brand names, I can't say of any to steer clear of. Most of ours came from Fastenal. Hope this helps,

    Your friend

    The Cow
     
  15. Jon1212

    Jon1212 Birch! Please..... Staff Member

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    Probably somewhere around 1"(25mm). My thought was to cut the holes as the ends of two long sided ovals. Basically two shorter versions of the cutout in an Oregon RW bar.
     
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  16. huskihl

    huskihl Sausage Fingers Forever

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    Chop chop, guinea pig. I gots a 36" GB bar that drags in the snow
     
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  17. Jon1212

    Jon1212 Birch! Please..... Staff Member

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    Yes.

    No.

    Maybe?

    My 42" Oregon may be the first to go on an annular cutter diet.
    20160715_212336.jpg
     
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  18. huskihl

    huskihl Sausage Fingers Forever

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    Curious to watch. Seems there ought to be a lighter material to use than jb weld? Hell, idk. Maybe it's pretty lightweight
     
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  19. Lightning Performance

    Lightning Performance Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Please get a small round magnet and tell us more about what lies below the filler. Swiss cheese perhaps?
    TIA
     
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  20. Brush Ape

    Brush Ape Direct Connection

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