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Felling Wedges

Cracker Boy

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I found this screen shot from the video.

View attachment 101436

Mark
Wtf.i live in fl cut alot of them nasty things ive never cut one like that.i just create a hinge and roll with it.looks like alot of work.i will say palms will dull your chit quick there stringy and full of water.pinch easy too the city and county wont even pick em up.damn things burn like sand.there dirty full of roaches squirels possums and rats.
 

KiwiBro (deleted)

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I seen and tried a new method a few weeks ago where the wedge is never in the saw kerf your using to drop the tree. It’s kind of hard to explain so I’ll try and get a picture tomorrow.
Start out with a traditional bore/plunge cut with an open face notch. Then below the back strap place another cut parallel to the hinge. Drive wedge in same cut under the back strap. The lifting action will break the back strap from the holding wood. I looked all day and I couldn’t find a good picture on the internet.


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How do you know you will achieve enough lift from the wedge that when the strap breaks the tree won't set/fall back?
 

Homemade

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How do you know you will achieve enough lift from the wedge that when the strap breaks the tree won't set/fall back?

The tree shouldn’t sit back because the wedge is what “breaks” the strap. It breaks the strap by lifting the wood away from the stump. Your never cutting the strap with the saw.


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jakethesnake

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I've cut some wedges, and broken others, but I still believe the traditional felling method is just hard to beat.

Plus, I think a lot of boring will shorten the life of your bar.
Couldn’t agree much more. Some of the fancy stuff just looks dangerous to me. I have bored and left just a trigger but that cut is only used when the tree wants to go that way on its own. It really helps keep the tree from falling super early
 

KiwiBro (deleted)

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The tree shouldn’t sit back because the wedge is what “breaks” the strap. It breaks the strap by lifting the wood away from the stump. Your never cutting the strap with the saw.


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Thanks. I think I get it now. Having broken the strap if you need more lift just keep driving the wedge?
 

MustangMike

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Thanks. I think I get it now. Having broken the strap if you need more lift just keep driving the wedge?

The strap should not break until the wedge has started tilting the tree in the direction of the fall.
 

RI Chevy

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Any videos anywhere of this method in action? I always do better when I can see it. Lol
 

KiwiBro (deleted)

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The strap should not break until the wedge has started tilting the tree in the direction of the fall.
Unless it's big enough or leaning back enough that the strap could break under tension long before enough of the compression wood has been lifted enough to get 'er moving. In that case, 'break strap and belt those wedges like ya mean it. but i get it - this ain't the right process for such trees.
 

MustangMike

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Unless it's big enough or leaning back enough that the strap could break under tension long before enough of the compression wood has been lifted enough to get 'er moving. In that case, 'break strap and belt those wedges like ya mean it. but i get it - this ain't the right process for such trees.

When in doubt, tie it. I really like how my Maasdam rope winch works. Rope always has a bit of stretch, so you can pre tension it, an advantage that is often over looked.

Get the good rope with it, about 3X stronger than what HD sells.
 
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RI Chevy

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I won’t get out to the woods till after the New Years


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No worries, no rush. It sounds like a cool theory. I am just limited in my skills, and always do better if I see it once for myself. I guess I am a visually oriented person. Lol
A video would be really nice, but if you can't, no worries. [emoji106]
 
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KiwiBro (deleted)

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When in doubt, tie it. I really like how my Maasdam rope winch works. Rope always has a bit of stretch, so you can pre tension it, and advantage that is often over looked.

Get the good rope with it, about 3X stronger than what HD sells.
Thanks. Have pulled with crap rope, used dyneema and a big shot, and cable on tractor winch. Horses for courses but after a nightmare job ages ago with crap rope I splurged on dyneema. If it's going to take too long or it risks taking the tractor for a ride if I can't anchor it elsewhere, I prefer to jack 'em if big enough to accommodate a jack or jacks.
Can't bring myself to spend the $ but I did also find the cone wedge idea/product interesting. i think the maker calls it a felling cone and it is wound into the kerf with an impact drill. Thought it might be useful to replace pounding on regular wedges,
 
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KiwiBro (deleted)

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Not to intentionally derail, but have you guys ever used a hydraulic tree jack?


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Yes, but not the proper porta power jacks, just a few 20t bottle jacks with a home-made pivot for the top. Work well.
jack.jpg
 
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