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Dull chains...does it really kill saws....how?

jmssaws

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I wish I could double like that post. My local Stihl dealer thinks saws can just rev wfo forever. He'll fuel a new saw, and as soon as the thing fires it's wfo for about 10 seconds... Makes me cringe. I take mine home in the box now.
That makes me mad anymore.
I'll yell at someone for doing it

We all know that guy who pulls his muffler every tank hoping to find a perfect piston but instead finds those fine scratches,well most likely that's from piss revving a cold saw.

When I start one cold,after it hits on choke I go straight to the run position and then start it at a idle and if will only start on fast idle I'm as fast as I can be to turn it off or I start it with my hand on the throttle.

Let the piston and moving parts come up to operating temperature or at least warm before you rev the guts out of it.
Sheeesh!
 

TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic

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That makes me mad anymore.
I'll yell at someone for doing it

We all know that guy who pulls his muffler every tank hoping to find a perfect piston but instead finds those fine scratches,well most likely that's from piss revving a cold saw.

When I start one cold,after it hits on choke I go straight to the run position and then start it at a idle and if will only start on fast idle I'm as fast as I can be to turn it off or I start it with my hand on the throttle.

Let the piston and moving parts come up to operating temperature or at least warm before you rev the guts out of it.
Sheeesh!
One of the guys at work is like that, he always...."A saw get's it's full lubrication at wot".....and I respond...YEAH...Under LOAD!!! Not when it's p*** revved all day!
 

ABarrick

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That makes me mad anymore.
I'll yell at someone for doing it

We all know that guy who pulls his muffler every tank hoping to find a perfect piston but instead finds those fine scratches,well most likely that's from piss revving a cold saw.

When I start one cold,after it hits on choke I go straight to the run position and then start it at a idle and if will only start on fast idle I'm as fast as I can be to turn it off or I start it with my hand on the throttle.

Let the piston and moving parts come up to operating temperature or at least warm before you rev the guts out of it.
Sheeesh!
Starting in cold weather is one area I really like husky over Stihl. After they pop on full choke, I leave them on high idle and as soon as they start I will pull the choke on and then back off quickly a few times to get some extra fuel in to avoid dry start wear. Feather the throttle a little as it's warming up and away you go. Much more difficult with Stihls master control lever.
 

jmssaws

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Starting in cold weather is one area I really like husky over Stihl. After they pop on full choke, I leave them on high idle and as soon as they start I will pull the choke on and then back off quickly a few times to get some extra fuel in to avoid dry start wear. Feather the throttle a little as it's warming up and away you go. Much more difficult with Stihls master control lever.
I like the way a mtronic stihl starts cold.
There not screaming like a regular stihl on fast idle.
 

jmssaws

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TJ...how come there is more lube under load?
In theory under a load at wfo your turning less rpm than no load with the same amount of fuel.
I don't think it quite works that way but to some extent it does.
 

TJ the Chainsaw Mechanic

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TJ...how come there is more lube under load?
jmssaws pretty much stated it, under a load you are actually turning less rpm than you would be at a p*** rev. With the same amount of fuel and less rpm you get a little more oil build up...to much is bad, but not enough is also bad.
 

MustangMike

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I always gun the saw a few times after a large bucking cut to clear any chips and lube the bar. Sometimes in a large cut, the wood chips will restrict the lubrication of the bar, and it is good to clear the chips between cuts, especially if your tip is buried. But I do not do an extended piss rev.
 

jmssaws

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I like to do the same.
After a long cut let it rest a second and Kool.
You can hold your hand out in front of the muffler and feel the exhaust gas Kool down.

I done some test once an and checked cylinder temperatures after a long cut they would average 350 degrees and in a few seconds would be back closer to 200
 

jmssaws

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I also read somewhere here that revving the saw and then shutting it down while holding it at wot helped to cool it as well. I also just let mine idle for a bit and then shut them down.
Yeh flushing the cylinder with fresh charge.
I don't like that either.
Idle then off is what I like
 

MustangMike

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If you shut off a saw that is not at idle, you run the risk of dieseling, I would not do it.
 

MattG

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Surely if saw is actually four-stroking when piss-revved, it will receive sh!t loads of fuel and lubrication.......since every other cycle is wasted.....no combustion, and less heat on that down stroke. And loads of surplus lube, in my humble opinion.
 
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