High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Dang, For The Price Of Getting A Saw Ported, You Can Get One Of These

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About three months of actual "work so far. AND it's a "fun" platform I think. Took 1 and 1/2 loads with it so far, about 6000 board ft. Averages $900 a thousand so it's payed for itself. It a mixed bag like all of them but WAY further along that any I've had in the past. So far, muffler bolts replaced when I opened up the muffler, they galled. I replaced the piston because the one it came with was a rattler, dimensionally off. But other than a few little things like that, it's been a cutting fool. I hear from others who got them they resolved the piston issues. Prolly bring it out in the woods today along side the 562 actually.

Hey you're working those saws! When are you gonna treat yourself to a light bar?
The new Sugi/Husqvarna bars are very well made and getting 28" and above certainly does make a difference.
 

lehman live edge slab

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LOL this opens up a fun opportunity, I run a 28 on my Husqvarna 565 in hard wood ( will drop a video in for evidence I guess ) Does that mean a 565 has more ass than a 462? You have to buy a 462 send it to Randy to get it to run like a 565? Lemecee how much would the finished product cost? How many 565's or chicom 395's if we need more power could we have for the same money? Be curious to see a cookie cut race between a $350 dollar g395 & a $1000 462 with a 28 inch bar & full house chain in hard maple. This is for FUN, but the question does bring up an interesting understanding.

First Job The Day I bought the 565 from Bob was a huge old maple to buck. Put a 28inch B&C on it and went to town. It wears either a 24 or 28 ever since. So FIRST video was day one job one. Second vidoe was a ash tree operation ( posted before somewhere ) but is the 565 with a 28 again. Still use it on maple now and then.

Day One

A Year Later & Ash In Kentucky

My ms 400 as no issue with a 25-28” muffler mod and timing advance is all that’s done.
 

Sierra_rider

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LOL this opens up a fun opportunity, I run a 28 on my Husqvarna 565 in hard wood ( will drop a video in for evidence I guess ) Does that mean a 565 has more ass than a 462? You have to buy a 462 send it to Randy to get it to run like a 565? Lemecee how much would the finished product cost? How many 565's or chicom 395's if we need more power could we have for the same money? Be curious to see a cookie cut race between a $350 dollar g395 & a $1000 462 with a 28 inch bar & full house chain in hard maple. This is for FUN, but the question does bring up an interesting understanding.

First Job The Day I bought the 565 from Bob was a huge old maple to buck. Put a 28inch B&C on it and went to town. It wears either a 24 or 28 ever since. So FIRST video was day one job one. Second vidoe was a ash tree operation ( posted before somewhere ) but is the 565 with a 28 again. Still use it on maple now and then.

Day One

A Year Later & Ash In Kentucky


Locally, not too many people are running 5 series Huskies, although I'd love to compare a 572. The 462 actually runs really well for a 70cc saw, but it does trade a bit of grunt for chain speed. I don't know that it's going to out race a 90cc saw in a 30" round, but they are a fast cookie cutter. I machined the cylinder on the one I use and did some mild work on the ports, and it's a really awesome work saw. I would've been just happy running it stock, but since I have the tools/ability to do it, it didn't make sense for me to leave it stock

The other selling point of the 462 is weight, they're lighter than some manufacturer's 60cc saws. Technically it's not my saw, but I got to choose any new saw to run at work, and chose the 462 based on the power/weight ratio.
 

Sierra_rider

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I never understood the "skip" chain unless for milling. I run c83 on a 28inch bar on both my 565 and now my 562HTSS with no issues. All I cut is hard wood like Maple, Oak, Ash, Cherry etc. Have a jb to finish today, think I will go run the 562 with 28inch Husqvarna painted Sugihara and full comp c83.

It's a regional thing. Even on my larger hopped up 80-90cc saws, I run skip. It's partly chip clearance, and as someone else already mentioned, the softwoods aren't always as easy to cut as people think they are. It's often super pitchy wood, void space in the chain becomes a big deal. Particularly the dead firs I'm cutting, sometimes the chain will bind up in the kerf, if you pause the cut for any reason.

I'd say that most people I know are running skip chain, with a few running semi-skip. Full comp is still popular, but usually on short bars/limbing/firewood saws.
 

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My ms 400 as no issue with a 25-28” muffler mod and timing advance is all that’s done.

I almost exclusively run a 28" lwb on my 400. Fixing the oiler up was a bigger deal for long bars than the power was. Now it muffler modded and ported, 28" is easy for it...32" is even possible, but the suspension gets a little floppy with that on there.
 

afleetcommand

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I almost exclusively run a 28" lwb on my 400. Fixing the oiler up was a bigger deal for long bars than the power was. Now it muffler modded and ported, 28" is easy for it...32" is even possible, but the suspension gets a little floppy with that on there.

I spent the afternoon felling trees on a hill side with the 562 I built with a little port work and compression along with a muffler mod. Also have machine shop capabilities, but this saw got a "thin" gasket ( .010" vs. the stock .030") instead. It wears a 28inch Husqvarna Light ( Sugihara ). USUALLY it doesn't make the camera as usually project or hobby saws get the camera time. Today I took a little. Maybe I'll post it up. Todays task was a mix of soft & hard maple. A couple in the 25-28 inch range and a few in the 20inch. I've run the 28 now for a year. WHEN this job is done & I'm "back to normal" the 562 will get it's full wrap back and a light 24 inch B&C :)
 

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I spent the afternoon felling trees on a hill side with the 562 I built with a little port work and compression along with a muffler mod. Also have machine shop capabilities, but this saw got a "thin" gasket ( .010" vs. the stock .030") instead. It wears a 28inch Husqvarna Light ( Sugihara ). USUALLY it doesn't make the camera as usually project or hobby saws get the camera time. Today I took a little. Maybe I'll post it up. Todays task was a mix of soft & hard maple. A couple in the 25-28 inch range and a few in the 20inch. I've run the 28 now for a year. WHEN this job is done & I'm "back to normal" the 562 will get it's full wrap back and a light 24 inch B&C :)

The main purpose of my 400 is for climbing as well as cutting trees on really steep hillsides. Basically instances where you want the lightest saw possible, yet still have plenty of power to do the job. W/the 28", it's an awesome saw for chunking down spars on large conifers when climbing...I'm able to get through most cuts from one side with that set up. If not, I keep a 32" on my 500i...worst case scenario, I've had to run my 066 w/a 36", but that's just not fun when in a tree.

I've got the wrap handle on my 400...I run wraps on any of my 70+cc saws.
 

afleetcommand

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The main purpose of my 400 is for climbing as well as cutting trees on really steep hillsides. Basically instances where you want the lightest saw possible, yet still have plenty of power to do the job. W/the 28", it's an awesome saw for chunking down spars on large conifers when climbing...I'm able to get through most cuts from one side with that set up. If not, I keep a 32" on my 500i...worst case scenario, I've had to run my 066 w/a 36", but that's just not fun when in a tree.

I've got the wrap handle on my 400...I run wraps on any of my 70+cc saws.

The 562 is that for me, and has proven to be an excellent platform over the years to build from. And I can get them cheap from those who drank the coolaid around here so prolly the best bang per buck possible for building a really snappy 60cc saw. I get them in running condition for in the $350 range, add a thin gasket & muffler mod. All elbow grease; with a little tactical grinding and they really rip. Run cooler as well. The blown up ones for $100--150. I did lot of testing years back with CST to "hone" what I could get away with. The operating history with carb mixture data & temp data was really helpful to get the build right AND reliable. Wouldn't sell or trade those saws for anything. For that matter I've been collecting "bones" as that platform has been around since 2011...and pretty much everything can be upgraded with a short block and then my tweaks. Short blocks with the new cases are in the $200 range or were retail. I didn't pay that much but even then its a cheep way to radically improve the early ones. :) Why spend over a grand when I can get even better performance for under $500? Of course not everyone has the shop , tools, or skills. But I have fun. I think eventually I'll build a 461, I like them. And they are rugged. :)
 

lehman live edge slab

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The 562 is that for me, and has proven to be an excellent platform over the years to build from. And I can get them cheap from those who drank the coolaid around here so prolly the best bang per buck possible for building a really snappy 60cc saw. I get them in running condition for in the $350 range, add a thin gasket & muffler mod. All elbow grease; with a little tactical grinding and they really rip. Run cooler as well. The blown up ones for $100--150. I did lot of testing years back with CST to "hone" what I could get away with. The operating history with carb mixture data & temp data was really helpful to get the build right AND reliable. Wouldn't sell or trade those saws for anything. For that matter I've been collecting "bones" as that platform has been around since 2011...and pretty much everything can be upgraded with a short block and then my tweaks. Short blocks with the new cases are in the $200 range or were retail. I didn't pay that much but even then its a cheep way to radically improve the early ones. :) Why spend over a grand when I can get even better performance for under $500? Of course not everyone has the shop , tools, or skills. But I have fun. I think eventually I'll build a 461, I like them. And they are rugged. :)
So you have some tricks to get the version 1 562’s running properly and to hot start? I know a couple guys that have them and I’ve already put heat tape on the carb cylinder divider and put screened vents on air cleaner cover which has helped but still not perfect yet.
 

afleetcommand

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So you have some tricks to get the version 1 562’s running properly and to hot start? I know a couple guys that have them and I’ve already put heat tape on the carb cylinder divider and put screened vents on air cleaner cover which has helped but still not perfect yet.
So far I haven't experienced the hot start issue on the saw's I've build....all the way back to 2014 when I first did those tweaks. So that has been a non issue for me. I can't say if it was the mods or the climate, fuel, or what , just that I haven't had them. The saws that went thru the shop before I "retired" and I keep track of, those guys haven't complained either. Even the ones where the fuel line comes thru the "baffle". So I can't say they are fixed for a climate like Texas or somewhere south. So... I don't have an answer other than my experiences. The newer ones should be better yet. I would prefer the New carb/fuel line layout for sure. Jury is out on the new bearing/seal arrangement for me. Time will tell. I have a build I'm doing this winter blending a pre 2016 to a new case. Funny how I see all the drama on line and how it matches up with my experience. You know the ONLY true catastrophic failure I have seen n a 562? One that surprised me.... a spark plug dropped it's tip and beat the chit outa everything inside. The CYLINDER walls were fine. The combustion chamber....and case in around the lower transfers...dimpled. Put a piston in it for kicks ( guy wanted to see as well ). It's still out there as a skidder saw and actually RUNS.
 
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afleetcommand

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Yesterday :) Figured the best way to discuss is to actually do vs. talk. I'm more into less drama, more fun. AND empirical data vs. second hand hear say. Tends to keep the conversation "clear" hands on data talks more to me than text I guess. One thing is I love the negative commentary on the 562's because the bones I get I can reference the online commentary and negotiate :) I've been getting them CHEEEP. :) Hoping to find some dead 565/572's. I can't seem to find any locally and the ones who have some "hurt" won't part with them. NO idea why. They have been around long enough for the bones from loggers to exist.

BUT the theme of this thread was "bang per buck" AND this actually is in the same spirit as the 395 clones.... getting bones cheap and building fun but useful saws for a FRACTION of the cost those who follow the typical fad of the year spend to get the same level of performance. So this week I'll run the tired old 2014 562 and finish one job, start another I guess. I may have $300 into that saw total from bones to parts. This job will net close to 4K. So the Project 394 to 395's $150 in parts will certainly b covered. And the $300 in the 562 as well...although its been paid for many times over already. MIGHT treat myself to a 585 for a project saw with this log check. Another bang per buck saw. With a CARBURETOR! Not going to advertise the price, but suffice to say there isn't another saw from any brand new that can deliver the same level of performance for that price. Waiting for the hue and cry on those. :)

 
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MG2186

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Yesterday :) Figured the best way to discuss is to actually do vs. talk. I'm more into less drama, more fun. AND empirical data vs. second hand hear say. Tends to keep the conversation "clear" hands on data talks more to me than text I guess. One thing is I love the negative commentary on the 562's because the bones I get I can reference the online commentary and negotiate :) I've been getting them CHEEEP. :) Hoping to find some dead 565/572's. I can't seem to find any locally and the ones who have some "hurt" won't part with them. NO idea why. They have been around long enough for the bones from loggers to exist.

BUT the theme of this thread was "bang per buck" AND this actually is in the same spirit as the 395 clones.... getting bones cheap and building fun but useful saws for a FRACTION of the cost those who follow the typical fad of the year spend to get the same level of performance. So this week I'll run the tired old 2014 562 and finish one job, start another I guess. I may have $300 into that saw total from bones to parts. This job will net close to 4K. So the Project 394 to 395's $150 in parts will certainly b covered. And the $300 in the 562 as well...although its been paid for many times over already. MIGHT treat myself to a 585 for a project saw with this log check. Another bang per buck saw. With a CARBURETOR!

I’d like to find some 565/72’s too but can’t either. I really like them, easy to work on and run fantastic, you’d think there’d be some eBay but none seem to pop up
 

afleetcommand

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I’d like to find some 565/72’s too but can’t either. I really like them, easy to work on and run fantastic, you’d think there’d be some eBay but none seem to pop up

I agree. I've looked. I do know of a "lot" that may appear in Canada , but I've chased the carnage reports several times now and came up lots turned to one or two...then nothing. I really want another 565. A back up to my existing one that just crossed 100 hrs on its clock. Seems like its getting hours faster then I anticipated.
 

MG2186

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I agree. I've looked. I do know of a "lot" that may appear in Canada , but I've chased the carnage reports several times now and came up lots turned to one or two...then nothing. I really want another 565. A back up to my existing one that just crossed 100 hrs on its clock. Seems like its getting hours faster then I anticipated.
Have you ever unboxed your 572XPG? With you cutting in the winter like you are you’d really appreciate the heated handles. I know I do
 

lehman live edge slab

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I agree. I've looked. I do know of a "lot" that may appear in Canada , but I've chased the carnage reports several times now and came up lots turned to one or two...then nothing. I really want another 565. A back up to my existing one that just crossed 100 hrs on its clock. Seems like it’s getting hours faster then I anticipated.
I live in mn and the guys I know have had the hot start issues, I’ve rebuilt one because the locater pin came out of the piston and trashed it but he still loves the 562 he has 3 of them fills all three when cutting firewood and runs them till empty one at a time and when the 3 rd one’s empty the first one is cold enough to start again. The other guy I did the heat tape and venting for pretty much parked his and it backs up his ms400.
 

MG2186

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I live in mn and the guys I know have had the hot start issues, I’ve rebuilt one because the locater pin came out of the piston and trashed it but he still loves the 562 he has 3 of them fills all three when cutting firewood and runs them till empty one at a time and when the 3 rd one’s empty the first one is cold enough to start again. The other guy I did the heat tape and venting for pretty much parked his and it backs up his ms400.
A large muffler mod is a must on them, the baffles need some major work. I’ve found that to help the most. I have 2 2260’s and a 2260 without stuffers that I put together from a 58. I’m like Walt and have not experienced any hot start issues either, even on 90 degree days in the summer. You’ve seen my mufflers so you know what I’m talking about. Not sure if that’s why I haven’t had any problems or not. I have had hot start issue with my 2253 once. Probably not a practical thing to do but if you don’t run it till runs completely out of fuel before refueling helps, give it a little cool down before shutting off helps a bunch, that’s how I prevent the issue with my 53
 

00wyk

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Hell, Husqvarna themselves put out a few videos after all the hot-start shouting became a roar.



I don't hear about it often here, but it's a rather cool climate we work in.

What I do see are the muffler bolts backing out on nearly every one that comes in.
 
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srcarr52

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I've had feedback from a few people with ported 550/562's. The hot start problem pretty much went away when they stopped using the decomp button for hot starts.
 

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The single biggest thing for improving the starting of my mk1 550, was gutting the muffler and putting a big outlet/defector on it. I cut the slot in the plastic that the later mk1s had, but that didn't help anything. I never did use the decomp button...I usually put plugs in there anyway.
 
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