Dang, For The Price Of Getting A Saw Ported, You Can Get One Of These

[Bryan Newton]

Lol what if you don't have either but are learning

 

[RockiesRider]

Less sharpening

You have to sharpen more often. It's 2/3 the teeth doing the same amount of work

 

[RockiesRider]

Yeah, I don't understand skip on short bars...but I do see it's merits on mid to longer bars. It's not just the power of the saw to pull it, but also the void space in the chain IMO. I run a 28" bar on my 462(I'd consider that a mid-length bar.) I run skip on it, partly because the kerf can load up with chips quickly when buried in a pitchy, fibrous wood like pine or fir. I could ream the cut more, but I'd rather just run skip.

28" is a long bar for a 462

 

[lehman live edge slab]

When I bought my Stihl it was on the dealers shelf and I needed saw.
Didn't know it was Chinese until much later, but there it was on the tag "Made in China".
So I really don't see the point of all this BS!

They sell Chinese Stihl saws in Canada? States sells none yet only chinese Stihl on our shelves is the fs 38 weed whip. Thing is not all chinese stuff is the same they too build to a market. The Stihl stuff made in China is still of quality from what I’ve seen so far just takes someone doing quality control which Stihl is since it’s their factory.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Less sharpening

Also less cutting. If you take the same saw and it has rhe power to run full comp if you put skip on it your just going backwards in speed.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

28" is a long bar for a 462

Yeah, I don't understand skip on short bars...but I do see it's merits on mid to longer bars. It's not just the power of the saw to pull it, but also the void space in the chain IMO. I run a 28" bar on my 462(I'd consider that a mid-length bar.) I run skip on it, partly because the kerf can load up with chips quickly when buried in a pitchy, fibrous wood like pine or fir. I could ream the cut more, but I'd rather just run skip.

This is the purpose of skip chain the people running it to oversize the bar on too small a saw came later. I hate skip on anything but large wood because it’s way to grabby.

 

[RockiesRider]

This is the purpose of skip chain the people running it to oversize the bar on too small a saw came later. I hate skip on anything but large wood because it’s way to grabby.

Yes.... I'm well aware of what skip tooth chain is for.

 

[RockiesRider]

Yeah, I don't understand skip on short bars...but I do see it's merits on mid to longer bars. It's not just the power of the saw to pull it, but also the void space in the chain IMO. I run a 28" bar on my 462(I'd consider that a mid-length bar.) I run skip on it, partly because the kerf can load up with chips quickly when buried in a pitchy, fibrous wood like pine or fir. I could ream the cut more, but I'd rather just run skip.

I feel like a 20" bar might suit that saw better and not have to run skip

 

[Sierra_rider]

I feel like a 20" bar might suit that saw better and not have to run skip

I honestly don't like shorter bars on my 70cc saws. I run a 20" full comp on my ported 50cc saw, my falling saws I just prefer 28"+ bars and skip. The 462r w/a 28" lightweight is just an easy to run saw, I don't have to bend over to cut and I consider a 24" bar to be the minimum for most of the trees it cuts.

Cutting trees like this gets old with a 20":

 

[Sierra_rider]

28" is a long bar for a 462

That's a personal opinion. Even stock, my opinion is a 32" is on the long side for a 462. Locally, 24-28" is pretty common on 70cc saws.

 

[Gullet]

I honestly don't like shorter bars on my 70cc saws. I run a 20" full comp on my ported 50cc saw, my falling saws I just prefer 28"+ bars and skip. The 462r w/a 28" lightweight is just an easy to run saw, I don't have to bend over to cut and I consider a 24" bar to be the minimum for most of the trees it cuts.

Cutting trees like this gets old with a 20":View attachment 357242

24" is just a happy medium to me (felling/bucking).
Love 20".

Heres some 32" Oak w/24" bar (272xp).

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I'm short, so a 24" bar is about right for me.
I don't like whittling down a tree though ,"3 cuts and go " is my philosophy.
Time is a quantity of incident equation, so if its a large diameter tree I have the luxury of bringing a bigger bar/saw to reduce the risk .

 

[afleetcommand]

28" is a long bar for a 462

LOL this opens up a fun opportunity, I run a 28 on my Husqvarna 565 in hard wood ( will drop a video in for evidence I guess ) Does that mean a 565 has more ass than a 462? You have to buy a 462 send it to Randy to get it to run like a 565? Lemecee how much would the finished product cost? How many 565's or chicom 395's if we need more power could we have for the same money? Be curious to see a cookie cut race between a $350 dollar g395 & a $1000 462 with a 28 inch bar & full house chain in hard maple. This is for FUN, but the question does bring up an interesting understanding.

First Job The Day I bought the 565 from Bob was a huge old maple to buck. Put a 28inch B&C on it and went to town. It wears either a 24 or 28 ever since. So FIRST video was day one job one. Second vidoe was a ash tree operation ( posted before somewhere ) but is the 565 with a 28 again. Still use it on maple now and then.

Day One

A Year Later & Ash In Kentucky

 

[00wyk]

I think what many may not take into account is the wide variation of woods stateside.
If you are spending your time in tight-grained hardwoods east of the Rockies, you are just gonna use a shorter bar without skip, and likely plenty of semi chisel in there for the dirty stuff.
If you are cutting clean big firs in the north west with square chain, you got to clear those chips and have the reach.
I just could not imagine using a full comp round chisel short bar for logging in the northwest, nor could I imagine running a 20 inch bar on a 70cc saw here in Ireland where I mainly use a 24" full comp semi chisel on a ported saw.

But the thing is, bars come off the saw. You can totally change them out to suit what you are doing. Seriously, try it out sometime.

If I got to cut sumfin big that isn't too hard like a fat horse chestnut, I'll throw the big bar on a smaller powerhead:

If I got a big oak that needs real power, I'll just bring along more power:

We have options.

But if you are on the side of a mountain all day long, you have to bring something along that will cut most what you need cut that you can hold in your hand.
That means yer not bringing along a load of bars or chains. You got to use what you got. So you cover your bases. Fortunately, we have plenty of options out there.

Hell, when I made this I used a 30 inch bar on an ms390 because I didn't wanna lug the 288 around all day carving, and speed was not essential, reach was more important.
Besides, less power is easier to carve with:

 

[afleetcommand]

I never understood the "skip" chain unless for milling. I run c83 on a 28inch bar on both my 565 and now my 562HTSS with no issues. All I cut is hard wood like Maple, Oak, Ash, Cherry etc. Have a jb to finish today, think I will go run the 562 with 28inch Husqvarna painted Sugihara and full comp c83.

 

[afleetcommand]

I think what many may not take into account is the wide variation of woods stateside.
If you are spending your time in tight-grained hardwoods east of the Rockies, you are just gonna use a shorter bar without skip, and likely plenty of semi chisel in there for the dirty stuff.
If you are cutting clean big firs in the north west with square chain, you got to clear those chips and have the reach.
I just could not imagine using a full comp round chisel short bar for logging in the northwest, nor could I imagine running a 20 inch bar on a 70cc saw here in Ireland where I mainly use a 24" full comp semi chisel on a ported saw.

But the thing is, bars come off the saw. You can totally change them out to suit what you are doing. Seriously, try it out sometime.

If I got to cut sumfin big that isn't too hard like a fat horse chestnut, I'll throw the big bar on a smaller powerhead:

If I got a big oak that needs real power, I'll just bring along more power:

We have options.

But if you are on the side of a mountain all day long, you have to bring something along that will cut most what you need cut that you can hold in your hand.
That means yer not bringing along a load of bars or chains. You got to use what you got. So you cover your bases. Fortunately, we have plenty of options out there.

Hell, when I made this I used a 30 inch bar on a 390 because I didn't wanna lug the 288 around all day carving, and speed was not essential, reach was more important.
Besides, less power is easier to carve with:

Perfect. And absolutely agree on this post & comment. One thing I've learned over the years is there is NO shortage of very smart people. And they will work out a system with what's available to tackle any task. Concept translates to saws and bar selection as well. I've "strayed" into longer bars because I am older. I need a bar to bore cut all the way thru most of the tree's so I run a 28 where as before I would hop around with a 20 and cut everything doing tree sushi if needed. Now....slow & steady , GOL bore cutting is the rule. On the 24-30 inch trees I've been cutting this last year.... a 28 is the lightest option and best for me. Next year? who knows.

 

[afleetcommand]

Moved onto 394's for a project. They are too big a saw for me, so back to the 565/562 even hopped 372's when the video camera is "off"

 

[00wyk]

Moved onto 394's for a project. They are too big a saw for me, so back to the 565/562 even hopped 372's when the video camera is "off"

Have you had any real time with the Farmertec/Hutzl 395 yet?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I never understood the "skip" chain unless for milling. I run c83 on a 28inch bar on both my 565 and now my 562HTSS with no issues. All I cut is hard wood like Maple, Oak, Ash, Cherry etc. Have a jb to finish today, think I will go run the 562 with 28inch Husqvarna painted Sugihara and full comp c83.

You've been in the South before, in the spring when the big pines are full of sap the longer bar with skip tooth seems to help with keeping the kerf clear. I'll use .404 also ,even on a 70cc saw.
Just such a sticky mess when they are full of sap its like you are stacking chips up in the kerf.

 

[afleetcommand]

Have you had any real time with the Farmertec/Hutzl 395 yet?

About three months of actual "work so far. AND it's a "fun" platform I think. Took 1 and 1/2 loads with it so far, about 6000 board ft. Averages $900 a thousand so it's payed for itself. It a mixed bag like all of them but WAY further along that any I've had in the past. So far, muffler bolts replaced when I opened up the muffler, they galled. I replaced the piston because the one it came with was a rattler, dimensionally off. But other than a few little things like that, it's been a cutting fool. I hear from others who got them they resolved the piston issues. Prolly bring it out in the woods today along side the 562 actually.