Bryan Newton
Pinnacle OPE Member
- Local time
- 12:23 AM
- User ID
- 25002
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2022
- Messages
- 645
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- Location
- Glencoe, Oklahoma
Lol what if you don't have either but are learning
You have to sharpen more often. It's 2/3 the teeth doing the same amount of workLess sharpening
Yeah, I don't understand skip on short bars...but I do see it's merits on mid to longer bars. It's not just the power of the saw to pull it, but also the void space in the chain IMO. I run a 28" bar on my 462(I'd consider that a mid-length bar.) I run skip on it, partly because the kerf can load up with chips quickly when buried in a pitchy, fibrous wood like pine or fir. I could ream the cut more, but I'd rather just run skip.
They sell Chinese Stihl saws in Canada? States sells none yet only chinese Stihl on our shelves is the fs 38 weed whip. Thing is not all chinese stuff is the same they too build to a market. The Stihl stuff made in China is still of quality from what I’ve seen so far just takes someone doing quality control which Stihl is since it’s their factory.When I bought my Stihl it was on the dealers shelf and I needed saw.
Didn't know it was Chinese until much later, but there it was on the tag "Made in China".
So I really don't see the point of all this BS!
Also less cutting. If you take the same saw and it has rhe power to run full comp if you put skip on it your just going backwards in speed.Less sharpening
28" is a long bar for a 462
This is the purpose of skip chain the people running it to oversize the bar on too small a saw came later. I hate skip on anything but large wood because it’s way to grabby.Yeah, I don't understand skip on short bars...but I do see it's merits on mid to longer bars. It's not just the power of the saw to pull it, but also the void space in the chain IMO. I run a 28" bar on my 462(I'd consider that a mid-length bar.) I run skip on it, partly because the kerf can load up with chips quickly when buried in a pitchy, fibrous wood like pine or fir. I could ream the cut more, but I'd rather just run skip.
This is the purpose of skip chain the people running it to oversize the bar on too small a saw came later. I hate skip on anything but large wood because it’s way to grabby.
Yeah, I don't understand skip on short bars...but I do see it's merits on mid to longer bars. It's not just the power of the saw to pull it, but also the void space in the chain IMO. I run a 28" bar on my 462(I'd consider that a mid-length bar.) I run skip on it, partly because the kerf can load up with chips quickly when buried in a pitchy, fibrous wood like pine or fir. I could ream the cut more, but I'd rather just run skip.
I feel like a 20" bar might suit that saw better and not have to run skip
28" is a long bar for a 462
24" is just a happy medium to me (felling/bucking).I honestly don't like shorter bars on my 70cc saws. I run a 20" full comp on my ported 50cc saw, my falling saws I just prefer 28"+ bars and skip. The 462r w/a 28" lightweight is just an easy to run saw, I don't have to bend over to cut and I consider a 24" bar to be the minimum for most of the trees it cuts.
Cutting trees like this gets old with a 20":View attachment 357242
LOL this opens up a fun opportunity, I run a 28 on my Husqvarna 565 in hard wood ( will drop a video in for evidence I guess ) Does that mean a 565 has more ass than a 462? You have to buy a 462 send it to Randy to get it to run like a 565? Lemecee how much would the finished product cost? How many 565's or chicom 395's if we need more power could we have for the same money? Be curious to see a cookie cut race between a $350 dollar g395 & a $1000 462 with a 28 inch bar & full house chain in hard maple. This is for FUN, but the question does bring up an interesting understanding.28" is a long bar for a 462
I think what many may not take into account is the wide variation of woods stateside.
If you are spending your time in tight-grained hardwoods east of the Rockies, you are just gonna use a shorter bar without skip, and likely plenty of semi chisel in there for the dirty stuff.
If you are cutting clean big firs in the north west with square chain, you got to clear those chips and have the reach.
I just could not imagine using a full comp round chisel short bar for logging in the northwest, nor could I imagine running a 20 inch bar on a 70cc saw here in Ireland where I mainly use a 24" full comp semi chisel on a ported saw.
But the thing is, bars come off the saw. You can totally change them out to suit what you are doing. Seriously, try it out sometime.
If I got to cut sumfin big that isn't too hard like a fat horse chestnut, I'll throw the big bar on a smaller powerhead:
If I got a big oak that needs real power, I'll just bring along more power:
We have options.
But if you are on the side of a mountain all day long, you have to bring something along that will cut most what you need cut that you can hold in your hand.
That means yer not bringing along a load of bars or chains. You got to use what you got. So you cover your bases. Fortunately, we have plenty of options out there.
Hell, when I made this I used a 30 inch bar on a 390 because I didn't wanna lug the 288 around all day carving, and speed was not essential, reach was more important.
Besides, less power is easier to carve with:
Moved onto 394's for a project. They are too big a saw for me, so back to the 565/562 even hopped 372's when the video camera is "off"
I never understood the "skip" chain unless for milling. I run c83 on a 28inch bar on both my 565 and now my 562HTSS with no issues. All I cut is hard wood like Maple, Oak, Ash, Cherry etc. Have a jb to finish today, think I will go run the 562 with 28inch Husqvarna painted Sugihara and full comp c83.
Have you had any real time with the Farmertec/Hutzl 395 yet?