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Chain grinding and filing thread

Chainsaw Jim

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If you're going for race chain then make sure you have a brand new set of files to start with. The cutters on chain are chrome plated on top. An older file will roll the plating at the edge and will take too long to get right, where a new file will take just a couple light strokes to leave that perfect edge.
 
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J. Loe

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If you're going for race chain then make sure you have a brand new set of files to start with. The cutters on chain are chrome plated on top. An older file will roll the plating at the edge and will take too long to get right, where a new file will take just a couple light strokes to leave a perfect edge.

And I just thought old files were a pain in the ass.
Turns out it’s worse.


That’s Very helpful sir.
I wish I knew that Years ago!

Thankyou Thankyou.
 

Jswanson

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If you're going for race chain then make sure you have a brand new set of files to start with. The cutters on chain are chrome plated on top. An older file will roll the plating at the edge and will take too long to get right, where a new file will take just a couple light strokes to leave that perfect edge.
Escalada OR. show on July 4th. Word on street a chain race there.
 

Wolverine

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Wilhelm

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Wilhelm

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I'm in the process of "fixing" a TriLink chisel loop to go on my Dolmar PS-7900 as soon as the current semi-chisel TriLink loop is done.

A lot of work on these chains, first on the agenda was to get rid of the "Guard Link" humps, aka. "Shark Fins", "Camel Humps".
DSC07953.JPG DSC07957.JPG

Paired up with my Dolmar PS-7310 for testing the loop still feeds poorly through the oak log I have.

Next I'll touch up the factory round grind with a diamond round file, but having already used one of these I'll go ahead and lower the rakers for more bite after a second test cut - the PS-7900 can take much more bite with a 20" B&C setup anyways.

Dolmar 099 branded Oregon loop, Stihl round file 4.8mm diameter, free hand.

Before
View attachment 129666

After
View attachment 129667 View attachment 129668
. . .
I got to run my PS-7310 with this loop yesterday.
I must have gotten real close to a sweet spot sharpening because the chain ripped through a rather large beech log like it was nothing (on the right in the picture).
It is an intoxicating feeling when saw and chain performance line up just right.
DSC07958.JPG

I wished for a couple more large logs, but there weren't any left.
At least I didn't touch the ground this time as I had more room to actually roll the log for a finishing cut.

I love my Dolmar PS-7310 more with every bucking cut I make, impressive saw once the SLR is removed.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Wow, that's one beefy tooth, a whole lota steel on that one!
They don't make them like that no more.

Pardon my rather limited knowledge, but is that "step" actually desired on a square grind?
It kinda looks like it would interfere with chip flow, no?! o_O
This wasn't meant to be a "work chain" thread. I figured it would help those who want better work chain by taking what they can from it.
Lots of different things can make a chain faster, but the science of the methods aren't always easy to explain. I think faster chain technology involves focus on pulverizing chips cleanly over clearing them. I don't think the chips roll or curl off the cutters like one would think when the chain gets up near racing speeds.
This 1/2" chain won't be powered by a slow moving gear drive or I'd either leave the shelf blunt or remove it entirely.
 

RI Chevy

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You got something up your sleeve Jim. LOL
 

Wilhelm

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This wasn't meant to be a "work chain" thread. I figured it would help those who want better work chain by taking what they can from it.
Lots of different things can make a chain faster, but the science of the methods aren't always easy to explain. I think faster chain technology involves focus on pulverizing chips cleanly over clearing them. I don't think the chips roll or curl off the cutters like one would think when the chain gets up near racing speeds.
This 1/2" chain won't be powered by a slow moving gear drive or I'd either leave the shelf blunt or remove it entirely.
Didn't mean my post to be disrespectful or criticizing!

I was just curious as I don't do square and as such don't have any insight on it's behavior.

I only do round filed regular guys work chain sharpening.
I don't always get it right, but sometimes I get it spot on.
 

jakethesnake

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Didn't mean my post to be disrespectful or criticizing!

I was just curious as I don't do square and as such don't have any insight on it's behavior.

I only do round filed regular guys work chain sharpening.
I don't always get it right, but sometimes I get it spot on.
Me too man. Square files are too high
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Didn't mean my post to be disrespectful or criticizing!
I couldn't take it in a negative way if I tried, lol. I didn't mean to make it sound like I took offense to work chain talk and I do welcome it in this conversation. I mentioned that in case folks didn't realize the primary focus is about learning how to file your own race chain at home. I'm assuming the biggest help will involve showing pictures which I'm going to try and help with. I'm still in the learning process myself and I can say I probably know more about race chain than work chain.

With this chain the side of the depth rakers leave a very narrow gap for the side cutters. I figured I'd sharpen the shelves up before removal to see if there is any benefit.
 
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