XP_Slinger
They’re Just Saws
- Local time
- 9:03 PM
- User ID
- 845
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2016
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- 6,089
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- Location
- Central NY
Joe is correct in my saw being a 93’ right?91-95 was the golden years!!!!
Joe is correct in my saw being a 93’ right?91-95 was the golden years!!!!
your welcome anytime, 254 was the saw model I study most before them 242's took over.
Thanks so much for sharing all this great info. I was a little skeptical about building a 254 because I thought Parts were tough to find. But thanks to you I now know what saws to look for. Thanks Tor!!!!
yup, he sure isJoe is correct in my saw being a 93’ right?
It sure seems like a great platform. Can’t wait to get going on it, though I probably won’t start until after the new year. I’ll round up all the parts for it I can until thenyour welcome anytime, 254 was the saw model I study most before them 242's took over.
254 share tons with 262, the unique 254 parts was top end, crank, top cover, muffler, smaller carb (get yourself a 120 carb)!, different airfilter, top cover, fuel tank and front handle. 55 front handle bar should fit also
Its probleby the best platform to build a project on.
yup, he sure is
It sure seems like a great platform. Can’t wait to get going on it, though I probably won’t start until after the new year. I’ll round up all the parts for it I can until then
Awesome! I may be placing an order with ya after the 1stStarter 503 54 16-01. Still available $67.99 as of 12/14/2017
Quick question for you all to consider and give me your thoughts on while I wait for my parts.
As some may know, the 6201-c3 bearing is NLA oddly enough.... Now after some research, I learned that there are still other variations of the 6201-c3 widely available, the 6201-c3rs2, 6201-c3zz2 to name the most abundant. I figured out that the "rs2" and "zz2" suffixes refer to these bearings being sealed and the type of material the seals are comprised of. The bearing I ordered and want to discuss is the "rs2" suffix bearing. This is the 6201 bearing sealed with rubber inserts on both sides that can easily be plucked out with a pick when the application calls for it. So this is the bearing that is still on it's way due to a shipping error on the part of my dealer's wholesaler.
Now here is my question: I was considering only plucking out one of the seals and leaving one in to go toward the crank seal to act as an additional "insurance seal" so to speak. But then I had the thought that maybe the crank seal would fail prematurely if it doesn't get a little bit of mix oil to it?? Anyone care to opine on this? Should I remove both seals or leave one in to be on the outside to act as an additional help for the crank seal??
Yes sir! I guess our guesstimating was spot on for that one.Thanks Joe, that's what my gut was telling me.
Remove both Joe, the crank seal lip will burn up in short order if it does not get any mix to keep it lubricated.
In light of how cold it is, I think we can move assembly into the heated house garage.All of my parts are here! Going to the in-laws for Christmas tomorrow and won't be back till saturday night. Going to get started on it as soon as I can though...
Will post up findings on the crank bearing situation. As suggested by Tor much earlier in this thread, I procured a Stihl 020AV bearing for the PTO side and got a 6201-C3 RS2 for the mag side. As I suspected the "RS2" indicated "rubber seal, both sides" of the bearing. Every indication is that the bearing should be dimensionally the same, but Husky lists the 6201-c3 as NLA. Easy fix is get the RS2 bearing and pull the seals out of it. Both bearings will be comparatively measured against my OEM units. I'm sure they will match though. But get your Stihl 020AV proprietary PTO bearings if you can, seems they are pretty hard to find. I got lucky and found mine on Ebay.
Lots of pics will be posted.
Can't wait to get this started!