High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

242xp resurrection. (My first 2xx series) Build Complete! Vid added!

Tor R

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That low exhaust and transfer is something I kind of expected on this small displacement saw.
yup, all 242's lay in that area, there was more differences on them 42's, but 246 has close the same timing as a 346 OE has ;)

As some may know, the 6201-c3 bearing is NLA oddly enough.
maybe it's NLA over there, but sounds more to be a mistake in the system, 242 aint the only one using that bearing.
Its one SKF 6201 C3, can be bought through a SKF dealer as well, mostly as SKF Explorer 6201 C3 nowadays.

254 ?? [emoji4]
cd054d15b253118de64ccdaa2dc616a6.jpg



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most likely an Anniversary version :)
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Im sure you are right Tor. I was pretty surprised when my dealer looked up the 6201 bearing and stated it was NLA. I too was thinking 242 couldn't be the only Husky saw to use that bearing.
 

Glock37

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I got so many parts 2 of everything and 4 cases 2 powdered 2 to be and 1 good crank 1 bad ill have to look see when i get other 2 apart
New bearings seals muffs modded cyls cleaned up and trued by randy enough parts to completely fill a storage tote
Got a crank install rod matt to install crank
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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Well, getting started on the 242 now and I think I've discovered a problem with using the PTO bearing from the Stihl 020AV.

The inner race protrudes about .060" on the outside. On the OEM bearing the inner race looks to ride even with the outer race as most bearings do. The OEM bearing is still installed in the case, so I mounted up the oil pump and pump driver to see if there is any clearance between the OEM inner race and the pump driver and there appears to be very little to none. Using the Stihl bearing it seems there would be damaging pressure applied to the oil pump driver once the clutch is tightened down.

I'm not going to to junk the Stihl bearing, but I'm going to stick with my initial plan to use the seemingly good OEM PTO bearing.

Also, the OEM bearing has a steel retainer as opposed to the plastic retainer of the Stihl bearing.

Thoughts??

See picIMG_20171231_120234486.jpg
 

Tor R

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Well, getting started on the 242 now and I think I've discovered a problem with using the PTO bearing from the Stihl 020AV.

The inner race protrudes about .060" on the outside. On the OEM bearing the inner race looks to ride even with the outer race as most bearings do. The OEM bearing is still installed in the case, so I mounted up the oil pump and pump driver to see if there is any clearance between the OEM inner race and the pump driver and there appears to be very little to none. Using the Stihl bearing it seems there would be damaging pressure applied to the oil pump driver once the clutch is tightened down.

I'm not going to to junk the Stihl bearing, but I'm going to stick with my initial plan to use the seemingly good OEM PTO bearing.

Also, the OEM bearing has a steel retainer as opposed to the plastic retainer of the Stihl bearing.

Thoughts??

See picView attachment 104251
mine is flat but came from one 20AV super, never thought there could be difference between AV and AV super :(.
Ummm, place the Stihl bearing in the oil pump and check if it interference with the oil pump driver.

And could you shoot more pictures of the Stihl bearing
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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No problem Tor, please don't feel like I am upset with you about this, you have been a huge help to me. :)

I never did remove the OEM PTO bearing as I had originally intended to use it again. What we did was mount the oil pump to the PTO case half, then install the pump drive work gear to see if there was clearance between the OEM bearing and the work gear that would indicate the Stihl bearing would work. There was very little if any clearance at all. It's not a big deal, I'll just save this bearing and if I had to use it I could probably sand down the oil pump work gear .050" or so to give it clearance.

The slacker part number on the bearing is the same number you gave me pages back in this thread. Again, I am not the least bit upset with you, I just wanted to give a heads up that this bearing may not work without a little creative modification of the oil pump work gear.

More bearing pics in the next post
 

Outback

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It sounds like your plan is done but this might help others. The polymer bearing retainers pop out easily and unlike the steel ones pop back in easy too. You could remove the balls pull out the inner race and give it a .060 reduction on the lathe. That seems like it would be a perfect replacement then. Little saws are weirdly exciting. Good luck on your build.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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SUCCESS! She lives!

When I pick up a chain I'll see about getting some vid and posting. I didn't want to run it too long as I forgot that one exhaust bolt was missing. I ordered one today. Very happy with how it turned out.


YAHOO 242! :D :D
 
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Tor R

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thank you for posting those pictures, we know at least what to look after, ie, not to buy.
I guess it was this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Stihl-...783025&hash=item4b31377bfe:g:MCkAAOSwhpZaLKhN
That said, there is two options with this bearing, either check how much we gotta cut the worm gear, or deliver the bearing to a mechanical shop for some cutting (its possible ;))
I gone find one oil pump tmr and study the options ;)
 
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