242xp resurrection. (My first 2xx series) Build Complete! Vid added!

[XP_Slinger]

91-95 was the golden years!!!!

Joe is correct in my saw being a 93’ right?

 

[Tor R]

Thanks so much for sharing all this great info. I was a little skeptical about building a 254 because I thought Parts were tough to find. But thanks to you I now know what saws to look for. Thanks Tor!!!!

your welcome anytime, 254 was the saw model I study most before them 242's took over.
254 share tons with 262, the unique 254 parts was top end, crank, top cover, muffler, smaller carb (get yourself a 120 carb)!, different airfilter, top cover, fuel tank and front handle. 55 front handle bar should fit also
Its probleby the best platform to build a project on.

Joe is correct in my saw being a 93’ right?

yup, he sure is

 

[XP_Slinger]

your welcome anytime, 254 was the saw model I study most before them 242's took over.
254 share tons with 262, the unique 254 parts was top end, crank, top cover, muffler, smaller carb (get yourself a 120 carb)!, different airfilter, top cover, fuel tank and front handle. 55 front handle bar should fit also
Its probleby the best platform to build a project on.

yup, he sure is

It sure seems like a great platform. Can’t wait to get going on it, though I probably won’t start until after the new year. I’ll round up all the parts for it I can until then

 

[Onan18]

It sure seems like a great platform. Can’t wait to get going on it, though I probably won’t start until after the new year. I’ll round up all the parts for it I can until then

Starter 503 54 16-01. Still available $67.99 as of 12/14/2017

 

[XP_Slinger]

Starter 503 54 16-01. Still available $67.99 as of 12/14/2017

Awesome! I may be placing an order with ya after the 1st

 

[Drptrch]

254 ?? [emoji4]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Quick question for you all to consider and give me your thoughts on while I wait for my parts.


As some may know, the 6201-c3 bearing is NLA oddly enough.... Now after some research, I learned that there are still other variations of the 6201-c3 widely available, the 6201-c3rs2, 6201-c3zz2 to name the most abundant. I figured out that the "rs2" and "zz2" suffixes refer to these bearings being sealed and the type of material the seals are comprised of. The bearing I ordered and want to discuss is the "rs2" suffix bearing. This is the 6201 bearing sealed with rubber inserts on both sides that can easily be plucked out with a pick when the application calls for it. So this is the bearing that is still on it's way due to a shipping error on the part of my dealer's wholesaler.

Now here is my question: I was considering only plucking out one of the seals and leaving one in to go toward the crank seal to act as an additional "insurance seal" so to speak. But then I had the thought that maybe the crank seal would fail prematurely if it doesn't get a little bit of mix oil to it?? Anyone care to opine on this? Should I remove both seals or leave one in to be on the outside to act as an additional help for the crank seal??

 

[Onan18]

Quick question for you all to consider and give me your thoughts on while I wait for my parts.


As some may know, the 6201-c3 bearing is NLA oddly enough.... Now after some research, I learned that there are still other variations of the 6201-c3 widely available, the 6201-c3rs2, 6201-c3zz2 to name the most abundant. I figured out that the "rs2" and "zz2" suffixes refer to these bearings being sealed and the type of material the seals are comprised of. The bearing I ordered and want to discuss is the "rs2" suffix bearing. This is the 6201 bearing sealed with rubber inserts on both sides that can easily be plucked out with a pick when the application calls for it. So this is the bearing that is still on it's way due to a shipping error on the part of my dealer's wholesaler.

Now here is my question: I was considering only plucking out one of the seals and leaving one in to go toward the crank seal to act as an additional "insurance seal" so to speak. But then I had the thought that maybe the crank seal would fail prematurely if it doesn't get a little bit of mix oil to it?? Anyone care to opine on this? Should I remove both seals or leave one in to be on the outside to act as an additional help for the crank seal??

Remove both Joe, the crank seal lip will burn up in short order if it does not get any mix to keep it lubricated.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Thanks Joe, that's what my gut was telling me.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Thanks Joe, that's what my gut was telling me.

Yes sir! I guess our guesstimating was spot on for that one.

 

[smokey7]

Remove both Joe, the crank seal lip will burn up in short order if it does not get any mix to keep it lubricated.

Yes absolutely remove both seals. Or if you really wanted to leave one you could leave the outward facing seal and pour some mix oil on top of the bearings seal then put the oil seal in effectively trapping it between the 2.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

All of my parts are here! Going to the in-laws for Christmas tomorrow and won't be back till saturday night. Going to get started on it as soon as I can though...

Will post up findings on the crank bearing situation. As suggested by Tor much earlier in this thread, I procured a Stihl 020AV bearing for the PTO side and got a 6201-C3 RS2 for the mag side. As I suspected the "RS2" indicated "rubber seal, both sides" of the bearing. Every indication is that the bearing should be dimensionally the same, but Husky lists the 6201-c3 as NLA. Easy fix is get the RS2 bearing and pull the seals out of it. Both bearings will be comparatively measured against my OEM units. I'm sure they will match though. But get your Stihl 020AV proprietary PTO bearings if you can, seems they are pretty hard to find. I got lucky and found mine on Ebay.

Lots of pics will be posted.

Can't wait to get this started!

 

[XP_Slinger]

All of my parts are here! Going to the in-laws for Christmas tomorrow and won't be back till saturday night. Going to get started on it as soon as I can though...

Will post up findings on the crank bearing situation. As suggested by Tor much earlier in this thread, I procured a Stihl 020AV bearing for the PTO side and got a 6201-C3 RS2 for the mag side. As I suspected the "RS2" indicated "rubber seal, both sides" of the bearing. Every indication is that the bearing should be dimensionally the same, but Husky lists the 6201-c3 as NLA. Easy fix is get the RS2 bearing and pull the seals out of it. Both bearings will be comparatively measured against my OEM units. I'm sure they will match though. But get your Stihl 020AV proprietary PTO bearings if you can, seems they are pretty hard to find. I got lucky and found mine on Ebay.

Lots of pics will be posted.

Can't wait to get this started!

In light of how cold it is, I think we can move assembly into the heated house garage.

 

[Stihlbro]

As a suggestion, I hope you can put this saw together stock. Run it and get a feel for what husqvarna offered. Then open the muffler up and run it more and feel the difference. Then advance the timing, run it and feel the difference. I have one that my dad keeps now. It is truly a remarkable little saw.

I will add, and it from my findings the saw I have does not like the leaner tune. The factory advertise the 15,600 rpm, it does the best richer.

The 242 has been one saw that has throughly impressed me as it can turn up in rpm but yet lug down and keep cutting which is hard to find in many saws. I have ran chain from .325 vs 3/8 low pro to 3/8 and the saw will handle all three.

Check your throttle rod and plastic guide real good for wear. Find a new one if you can. It secures to the crankcase and is prone to wear.


Joey

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Thanks for the tip on the throttle rod. I don't recall finding any issues with it when I tore the saw down, but I will take a closer look at it when I start getting back together, likely Sunday.

I was thinking of simply opening up the muffler, advancing timing a bit and only grinding on the cylinder if necessary to bring timing back to OEM as listed by Tor if my AM piston changes port timing a significant amount.

But your suggestion of trying things a step at a time is interesting and I think I'd like to do that.. might still open up the muffler though initially.

I don't have any plans for heavy mods in this saw being that cylinders are in such short supply. A little boost from moderate mods with minimal or no grinding is my ultimate goal. Think Spike60's famous Farmer Jones mods.

I have a 16" .325 bar for it that I think should be a good fit.

 

[Stihlbro]

I set squish and moved my transfer/exhaust back to stock. Slightly widened the intake and the saw was peaky. It lost the lower end of power. It was faster in speed but not as user friendly, that is why I made suggestions. Trust me, big mistake on my part, best thing was I put a stock cylinder back on and was happy.

 

[Stihlbro]

Before I forget, I have ran one other 242xp that was muffler modded and timing advanced only. And I honestly think the saws do not need anything else. I’m not trying to discourage you on modifications by any means, just be cautious. My experience did not work as well.


I also purchased a open port 242 and have used it enough to know the closed port cylinder is the way to go. I too would like to try one of the tecomec cylinder kits on it. Maybe one day.......

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Read you loud and clear neighbor.

The piston I got for it from Lil Red Barn is VERY close to OEM in it's overall and pin/crown heights. In fact, it was identical in all but one measurement and the one difference was only .004 if I recall. Somewhere back a few pages I listed side by side dimensions. My goal here is to try and keep timing as close to stock as I can. If it's just a degree off here or there due to that one small variance in my piston I will probably not even grind on it. Planning to use the base gasket as well.

And I also hear you loud and clear on how it's easy to make this saw too peaky. After all, it's only 42cc and doesn't have the raw displacement of larger saws that can be made to crank some strong RPM and not seem to lose too much down low.

The last thing I want to do is make a paperweight out of this cylinder. Really hoping for timing numbers very close to stock when I time it.

Very much appreciate the input

 

[Tor R]

My 242''s is around those timings: IN 68-69, TR 126-127, EX 110, we're not speaking about huge timing difference against OEM specs here.
Both TR and EX is close to OEM specs, IN is around 62-63 OEM.
I do a few other things also, advanced timing, opening up the airfilter trouth, mm.

Them open port 42's, ie 42 Special, aint much to brag about, 246 is a far better open port quad jug, has more intake duration compared against the 42 Special.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

That low exhaust and transfer is something I kind of expected on this small displacement saw.