High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

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merc_man

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Attempting to fix the recoul on my mini mac. The plastic part broke in the middle so i glued it in.
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WillG

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Husqvarna 353 got tested after a new oil hose and bar plate. Sealed the oil hose with some Seal All. This evening I put the bar and chain back on, made sure it's oiling and tossed in a new plug and fuel filter.

I also cheffed up some sirloin tips and peppers/onions. Seasoned the steak with some Montreal steak seasoning and the peppers and onions got some salt and pepper, garlic and balsamic vinegar.
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PA Dan

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Husqvarna 353 got tested after a new oil hose and bar plate. Sealed the oil hose with some Seal All. This evening I put the bar and chain back on, made sure it's oiling and tossed in a new plug and fuel filter.

I also cheffed up some sirloin tips and peppers/onions. Seasoned the steak with some Montreal steak seasoning and the peppers and onions got some salt and pepper, garlic and balsamic vinegar.
34ccd9758e1be2f8cbfacb4b183dbd7a.jpg
eb3a3414461e4fc00f106d8a1655df67.jpg


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Once again nice beer brother![emoji106]
 

merc_man

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Duce

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Put new meteor piston with caber rings in saw. It ran fine, owner decided it should have gasket delete. Asked if he was keeping or selling saw when finished. Oh, keeping it for sure! So pulled cylinder and got carried away. Getting new bearings, seals and gaskets. Owner has purchased saws from me before, no cost to him rebuild. Merry Christmas.IMG_20211130_111153242.jpg
 

merc_man

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Ok. No problem. The updated tan plastic spool will need some modding possibly. The flywheel is different between the engines that used the spool like yours and the later version. On mine they were not interchangeable because the crankshaft was a different diameter and taper. Mine is a real early model that came with 1/4 pitch.
The two flywheels use different pawls that I couldn't remove.
Ok never new that. It came off a 330 i think it was. Wonder if I could just swap the flywheel too if they dont interchange? If the flywheels are the same?

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JohnnyBlade

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Heres one for you guys.....built a 281. Ton of new parts. All OEM. Only mods i did was a BGD and a MM. cuz it was a bigger saw i figured leave TA alone cuz its gonna be a *b-word to start anyways, no decomp. Squish sits at .018. So 2 weeks or so ago i decide to put a compression tester on it for giggles. Have not ran it up to this point. I have it on the ground and 1 foot on the tank strap and one hand on the wrap. First pull was a bugger but it cycled and hit 120psi. I figured crap its gonna be high high. 2nd pull same scenario but other foot on the double dogs. I gave her a heave ho and the saw hit dead and flew up in the air from the pull cord. Tried a lil more and kept hitting dead after a lil pressure in the cylinder. With my back i said im done. So at least 120psi:D
Got ole @StuntCockWelder over to try and start it for me. Told him the whole story.......first pull it hits dead and he drives a 281 straight into his babymaker and i yell “don't drop the saw”:risas3: so he/we get it fired up after fighting it for a lil but after some tuning it was running good and super crisp for first fire. Heres my dilemma.....nobody is gonna be able to start/run the damn thing. I figure .018 is a lil snug but not what i would expect the way the saw is acting. Dnn dnn dnnn! So has anyone ever retarded timing? Right now it stock. It acts as it has too much advance? Any help or similar stories welcome;)
 

Woodslasher

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Heres one for you guys.....built a 281. Ton of new parts. All OEM. Only mods i did was a BGD and a MM. cuz it was a bigger saw i figured leave TA alone cuz its gonna be a *b-word to start anyways, no decomp. Squish sits at .018. So 2 weeks or so ago i decide to put a compression tester on it for giggles. Have not ran it up to this point. I have it on the ground and 1 foot on the tank strap and one hand on the wrap. First pull was a bugger but it cycled and hit 120psi. I figured crap its gonna be high high. 2nd pull same scenario but other foot on the double dogs. I gave her a heave ho and the saw hit dead and flew up in the air from the pull cord. Tried a lil more and kept hitting dead after a lil pressure in the cylinder. With my back i said im done. So at least 120psi:D
Got ole @StuntCockWelder over to try and start it for me. Told him the whole story.......first pull it hits dead and he drives a 281 straight into his babymaker and i yell “don't drop the saw”:risas3: so he/we get it fired up after fighting it for a lil but after some tuning it was running good and super crisp for first fire. Heres my dilemma.....nobody is gonna be able to start/run the damn thing. I figure .018 is a lil snug but not what i would expect the way the saw is acting. Dnn dnn dnnn! So has anyone ever retarded timing? Right now it stock. It acts as it has too much advance? Any help or similar stories welcome;)
Drop-start the effer! My brother's stock 281 blows 185 with a carbon-scuffed piston and ring and the only way you can pull it over is by drop-starting it. I'm deliberately refraining from making any retard or "stunt cock" jokes, fyi.
 

Johnmn

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Heres one for you guys.....built a 281. Ton of new parts. All OEM. Only mods i did was a BGD and a MM. cuz it was a bigger saw i figured leave TA alone cuz its gonna be a *b-word to start anyways, no decomp. Squish sits at .018. So 2 weeks or so ago i decide to put a compression tester on it for giggles. Have not ran it up to this point. I have it on the ground and 1 foot on the tank strap and one hand on the wrap. First pull was a bugger but it cycled and hit 120psi. I figured crap its gonna be high high. 2nd pull same scenario but other foot on the double dogs. I gave her a heave ho and the saw hit dead and flew up in the air from the pull cord. Tried a lil more and kept hitting dead after a lil pressure in the cylinder. With my back i said im done. So at least 120psi:D
Got ole @StuntCockWelder over to try and start it for me. Told him the whole story.......first pull it hits dead and he drives a 281 straight into his babymaker and i yell “don't drop the saw”:risas3: so he/we get it fired up after fighting it for a lil but after some tuning it was running good and super crisp for first fire. Heres my dilemma.....nobody is gonna be able to start/run the damn thing. I figure .018 is a lil snug but not what i would expect the way the saw is acting. Dnn dnn dnnn! So has anyone ever retarded timing? Right now it stock. It acts as it has too much advance? Any help or similar stories welcome;)
Put a base gasket back in, when I had mine(wish I still did!) It was a bear with a gasket an about .038 squish.
 

markds2

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Heres one for you guys.....built a 281. Ton of new parts. All OEM. Only mods i did was a BGD and a MM. cuz it was a bigger saw i figured leave TA alone cuz its gonna be a *b-word to start anyways, no decomp. Squish sits at .018. So 2 weeks or so ago i decide to put a compression tester on it for giggles. Have not ran it up to this point. I have it on the ground and 1 foot on the tank strap and one hand on the wrap. First pull was a bugger but it cycled and hit 120psi. I figured crap its gonna be high high. 2nd pull same scenario but other foot on the double dogs. I gave her a heave ho and the saw hit dead and flew up in the air from the pull cord. Tried a lil more and kept hitting dead after a lil pressure in the cylinder. With my back i said im done. So at least 120psi:D
Got ole @StuntCockWelder over to try and start it for me. Told him the whole story.......first pull it hits dead and he drives a 281 straight into his babymaker and i yell “don't drop the saw”:risas3: so he/we get it fired up after fighting it for a lil but after some tuning it was running good and super crisp for first fire. Heres my dilemma.....nobody is gonna be able to start/run the damn thing. I figure .018 is a lil snug but not what i would expect the way the saw is acting. Dnn dnn dnnn! So has anyone ever retarded timing? Right now it stock. It acts as it has too much advance? Any help or similar stories welcome;)
I know exactly what you mean, here's my complete stock early ('89 Anniversary Model) 288 with the KS Non-decomp cylinder and a new OEM piston. She was a bear to start....
20210407_131447.jpg
 

Maintenance Chief

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A couple things I check on the saws that bite are the pick coil gap and if the slots have any wiggle room.
I have a PM60,(Homelite Super 1050, 044 w/ .017 squish)that would bite the heck out of me and had a little wiggle room in the coil slots, I reset it by leaving the coil loose and rotating it up with the flywheel then set it with the bolts. It helped.
TBH the technique has to be, roll the piston over slowly just past tdc then give it hell and always use the throttle lock/ high idle setting. You need to get momentum from the first rotation with out slamming into the compression. Even with drop starting you don't want to hit the compression on the first rotation.
 

JohnnyBlade

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Drop-start the effer! My brother's stock 281 blows 185 with a carbon-scuffed piston and ring and the only way you can pull it over is by drop-starting it. I'm deliberately refraining from making any retard or "stunt cock" jokes, fyi.
LOL! No refraining necessary :D
He did drop start it, no bar:risas3:
Put a base gasket back in, when I had mine(wish I still did!) It was a bear with a gasket an about .038 squish.
I see that now:D thought about making a .010 gasket but after further research i think im going for .020, similar to stock. Bring it back to that .038 range.
 

Canadian farm boy

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Lots of great suggestions here. I will add that an extra coil of starter rope on the pulley as well as increasing your coil gap can also be helpful.
Slowly pulling the saw over until just past tdc, throttle lock on as well as chain brake on, as well as having a bar on saw all help.
 

JohnnyBlade

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I know exactly what you mean, here's my complete stock early ('89 Anniversary Model) 288 with the KS Non-decomp cylinder and a new OEM piston. She was a bear to start....
View attachment 318020
Yes sir! That what i was expecting to see on my gauge till it made a sissy out of me:D after a lil talk last night with @dustinwilt68 seems the 281’s had very small chambers and with no decomp it magnifies the suck. Gasket it is!
A couple things I check on the saws that bite are the pick coil gap and if the slots have any wiggle room.
I have a PM60,(Homelite Super 1050, 044 w/ .017 squish)that would bite the heck out of me and had a little wiggle room in the coil slots, I reset it by leaving the coil loose and rotating it up with the flywheel then set it with the bolts. It helped.
TBH the technique has to be, roll the piston over slowly just past tdc then give it hell and always use the throttle lock/ high idle setting. You need to get momentum from the first rotation with out slamming into the compression. Even with drop starting you don't want to hit the compression on the first rotation.
Good info. One other thing i can check is i know for a fact i changed the way i gap the coil. Always used a .030 business card for gapping. This time i used the freebee plastic card that come with HL orders. They measure .020. I Have read moving the coil closer can act like an advance? Just spitballin:shot:image.jpg
 

JohnnyBlade

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Lots of great suggestions here. I will add that an extra coil of starter rope on the pulley as well as increasing your coil gap can also be helpful.
Slowly pulling the saw over until just past tdc, throttle lock on as well as chain brake on, as well as having a bar on saw all help.
Yes agreed! Funny u mention the rope. I like to use new true blue on all the saws i build. Have a spool of 4.5. After testing i came to the conclusion that was not adequate enough for the bigger saw. HL got me again on their black friday sale. A spool of 5.5 is on the way:D
 
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