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Moparmyway

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394 wrap WAS really pissin-me-off. Couldn’t get the small scrench behind the wrap & didn’t wanna ruin my most used gift ever. Got tired of fetchin the wobble extension, 12mm, and ratshit........Why not ruin the wrap instead ??AB46506D-5A7F-4576-B855-3AFD8D43275E.jpeg
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Brake still releases !
 

Moparmyway

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That scrench is pretty special to me. Twas a gift and came attached with a little Stihl carb adjusting screwdriver. I actually use both ends of the scrench, so ...... the wrap got the sawzall instead.


Tach is goin back on the wrap after welding. Here she’s getting ready to get cut for wrap modsB27A1CC0-F774-4E8B-B893-CA9C1DD3A484.jpeg
 
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a. palmer jr.

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Well, I took the two Homelite XLs apart and they were altogether different from each other. They looked to have the same engine and ignition coil but the carbs were different and the fuel and oil lines were different also. I'm gonna take the simplest carb and try to use the engine it came on and modify the lines to the easiest routing I can do. I tried taking pics but since my computer upgraded I'm having trouble uploading the pics to the computer. Maybe I'll figure it out..I have a bunch more of the Homelites to try to get running, two 330s, a 360, and another Super 2. I did a plastic Super 2 earlier this year and a metal one that still needs a carburetor.
 

Cerberus

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Oh boy..... Not gonna post pics til I'm a bit further w/ some of them but not considering "shelved" projects (1977 Poulan 25d for instance) ie am currently working-on, and expect to be done-with, these well before end-of-month: (easiest to hardest)
1 - brand-new echo 355t, I went and lost H&L screw-position (factory-default) while trying-to remove the limiters (never had a saw w/ limiters, no bolt would fit / wasn't enough 'female' limiter to bite so am just section-by-section working it w/ glowing-hot "pulls" (roughed-up tiny flat-head driver-tips inserted/melted-into plastic limiters, pulled-out) and scalpel-work w/ my xacto kit, if I didn't know better I'd swear they put Loctite between the H&L screws & the plastic limiters, I'd watched enough vids and mine is just not "loose-enough" for a pull-out of that sort (yes I'm familiar there's tabs to line-up!) Then goes from bench to yard for tuning, wanna be sure it's running rich as I hear Echo ships lean (I trust my ear for L, and have a tach, but for H I suck at by-ear and my tach is a 10k RPM tach so useless for this, am just gonna keep it fat & risk ruining a plug as I learn to hear-4-stroking better instead of harming it while brand-new (it's on tank #2, using Motomix at 40:1 w/ HP Ultra, will keep topping-off with regular Echo 50:1 canned fuel from here ie it'll go from 40:1 to 50:1 over several tanks as it beds-in) Put its 'new'(ish!) 16" Oregon thin-nose 56DL setup on last night, thought it was "good" but it's "green label" Oregon which means "homeowner" I now understand!

2 - Tanaka TCS33-EDTP: Got it "broken beyond repair", fixed it up (ignition and flywheel/starter, chain-tensioner[had to do front-adjust but'll have a worm-gear setup to side-tension it soon enough!], clutch-alignment actually "ignition" is an understatement as it's physically pegged-in-place w/ a Permatex block by the saw's casing :p , plenty more minor issues)
Enjoyed it some weeks but, getting my 355t and swapping it's 14" Echo setup for the Tanaka's 16" Oregon setup, figured to do "another round" - am 'on break' at the moment from making a better metal-plate for affixing the clutch-cover-casing // chainsaw-bar interfacing, it's OEM/stock piece was such thin-gauge it's all mangled, makes chain-tensioner suck and pretty sure it contributed to the chain/sprocket missalignment issue, anyway am making a ~25% thicker plate so it mounts better / more-precisely especially since it's a single-bar-stud powerhead.

3 - Echo Pole-Saw (PPT-266, discontinued) Broke a metal "coupler"/adapter piece, it was what held the long orange-fiberglass pole to the thinner pole the handle is mounted on, as well as (dual-function piece) being an adapater for the drive-shaft, on the fiberglass/longer side there's a(n encased) drive-shaft-rod that terminates inside-of this piece, taking the powerhead-pole's flexible drive-shaft from the bottom 20% of the pole. 1 piece replacement to fix (and some McGuyvering, much of which is already done - have also test-cut but I mean it was on saw-horses with my brother throttling while I 'fed' its chain some wood to a 10" Oregon setup I'd had on for visual-check of sprocket-turn during diagnosing, BUT w/ how obvious a break/weak-point it is, am devising a way to slice some alum piping length-wise to use (probably w/ bondo :p ) as an "overlay" for not only bolstering that integral coupler but also spreading-force on the orange fiberglass for more than just-the-base of that pole (it hardly rests in that coupler, am surprised they don't *all* break this way!!)
My new favorite store on earth (where I just got that 355t :) ) has the coupler for $30 or $35 so will start-from there and alum-pipe and/or bondo overlays to spread-load, allowing much higher "bang on chain-bar" before another pole-snap! Also figured out how to do it so that I keep its extendability, initial fix was going to ditch that / leave it fixed-length and palms are a big thing around here so that woulda sucked :p

So yeah have my hands-full ^ w/ repairs, doing my best not to dote on repairs a moment-longer than my day's allowing (can be addictive, I've been known to be outside spraying carb-spray @2am under porch-light :p ) Confident I'll have the 355t limiters fully-out and the saw "properly tuned' (probably a bit fat, to be safe in-case my ears are wrong) and get a tank or so through it tonight testing-out how it pushes a 16" and it'll be done tonight, the Tanaka should be in-service again by the end of next week, and the pole-saw by the end of the month (w/ pole-saw, 12"/14" and 16" climb-saws, will be in a good spot :) Paid next-to-nothing for all my gear (except the 355t, that was MSRP but it's worth so much more I still feel it's "a steal" at $350!!)

[edited- Tanaka's back in-action! Crude plate is 'floating' in-between clutch-cover & bar but it gives plenty of bite on bar and tensioner works just fine, so I put the used-once 14" Echo setup on it and he's basically good -- ttthink I'll be going-back and putting some heat-tape between muff//clutch once I find a good product for that..
355t is fully tuned it was maybe 1/2 turn-out/CCW for L, and 3/4 for H (CCW), for 'optimal' of my new / 2nd-tank 355t running on ~45:1 by this point (started 40:1 motomix, keep adding neat 50:1 moto or echo mix so it'll "transition" to a 50:1 over some tankfuls, the tankfuls I'll be 'babying it' / keeping the tach 'semi-permanently' attached to....started-out as a tuning thing but I like that it keeps total-hours-logged on it, kinda neat to have an hours-counter for my fave [by leaps&bounds] saw!!
All that's left is the pole-saw....it's gonna have to be some aluminum, lengthwise-cut reinforcements if I want ~2' of ridigidity to mate their lil bar-couplers to so I know I can be 'rough' with it w/o worry!]
 
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WillG

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Borrowed a bar from @paragonbuilder , tossed it and a loop of EXL chain on her, did some carb tweaking, made a few cuts and she pulls nicely! Still fat for breakin. Test cut video tomorrow! Idles nice when hot, restarts 1 pull hot, I think I did okay!
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tickbitintn

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Real easy saw to work on.
Pulled muffler and cleaned, it was full of carbon and sludge but not plugged.
Pulled carb and went though, everything seemed fine.
Primer bulb lines were hooked up backwards.
Took a bit of time to get it to tune.
It wanted to be quite rich on the low to rev smoothly.
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Mkinslow

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Real easy saw to work on.
Pulled muffler and cleaned, it was full of carbon and sludge but not plugged.
Pulled carb and went though, everything seemed fine.
Primer bulb lines were hooked up backwards.
Took a bit of time to get it to tune.
It wanted to be quite rich on the low to rev smoothly.
1faab19466999bf3816afcb267ce461a.jpg
f4c8b90f579bf0ffde3b5b0a7f62a9b2.jpg


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I have 2 of those. Not too bad to deal with. And they are a little of a pain to tune.

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Agent Smith

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Working on a local fellas 192t. Intake boot split and things went downhill from there. He said it started acting funny but kept on running it. Amazing how many people will just keep running a saw when a problem arises instead of stopping and figuring out the problem. Now instead of just a boot, hes in for a new oem top end, boot and new seals while it's all apart anyways. IMG_20200517_123940.jpg IMG_20200517_122735.jpg
 
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