Oh boy..... Not gonna post pics til I'm a bit further w/ some of them but not considering "shelved" projects (1977 Poulan 25d for instance) ie am currently working-on, and expect to be done-with, these well before end-of-month: (easiest to hardest)
1 - brand-new echo 355t, I went and lost H&L screw-position (factory-default) while trying-to remove the limiters (never had a saw w/ limiters, no bolt would fit / wasn't enough 'female' limiter to bite so am just section-by-section working it w/ glowing-hot "pulls" (roughed-up tiny flat-head driver-tips inserted/melted-into plastic limiters, pulled-out) and scalpel-work w/ my xacto kit, if I didn't know better I'd swear they put Loctite between the H&L screws & the plastic limiters, I'd watched enough vids and mine is just not "loose-enough" for a pull-out of that sort (yes I'm familiar there's tabs to line-up!) Then goes from bench to yard for tuning, wanna be sure it's running rich as I hear Echo ships lean (I trust my ear for L, and have a tach, but for H I suck at by-ear and my tach is a 10k RPM tach so useless for this, am just gonna keep it fat & risk ruining a plug as I learn to hear-4-stroking better instead of harming it while brand-new (it's on tank #2, using Motomix at 40:1 w/ HP Ultra, will keep topping-off with regular Echo 50:1 canned fuel from here ie it'll go from 40:1 to 50:1 over several tanks as it beds-in) Put its 'new'(ish!) 16" Oregon thin-nose 56DL setup on last night, thought it was "good" but it's "green label" Oregon which means "homeowner" I now understand!
2 - Tanaka TCS33-EDTP: Got it "broken beyond repair", fixed it up (ignition and flywheel/starter, chain-tensioner[had to do front-adjust but'll have a worm-gear setup to side-tension it soon enough!], clutch-alignment actually "ignition" is an understatement as it's physically pegged-in-place w/ a Permatex block by the saw's casing
, plenty more minor issues)
Enjoyed it some weeks but, getting my 355t and swapping it's 14" Echo setup for the Tanaka's 16" Oregon setup, figured to do "another round" - am 'on break' at the moment from making a better metal-plate for affixing the clutch-cover-casing // chainsaw-bar interfacing, it's OEM/stock piece was such thin-gauge it's all mangled, makes chain-tensioner suck and pretty sure it contributed to the chain/sprocket missalignment issue, anyway am making a ~25% thicker plate so it mounts better / more-precisely especially since it's a single-bar-stud powerhead.
3 - Echo Pole-Saw (PPT-266, discontinued) Broke a metal "coupler"/adapter piece, it was what held the long orange-fiberglass pole to the thinner pole the handle is mounted on,
as well as (dual-function piece) being an adapater for the drive-shaft, on the fiberglass/longer side there's a(n encased) drive-shaft-rod that terminates inside-of this piece, taking the powerhead-pole's flexible drive-shaft from the bottom 20% of the pole. 1 piece replacement to fix (and some McGuyvering, much of which is already done - have also test-cut but I mean it was on saw-horses with my brother throttling while I 'fed' its chain some wood to a 10" Oregon setup I'd had on for visual-check of sprocket-turn during diagnosing, BUT w/ how obvious a break/weak-point it is, am devising a way to slice some alum piping length-wise to use (probably w/ bondo
) as an "overlay" for not only bolstering that integral coupler but also spreading-force on the orange fiberglass for more than just-the-base of that pole (it hardly rests in that coupler, am surprised they don't *all* break this way!!)
My new favorite store on earth (where I just got that 355t
) has the coupler for $30 or $35 so will start-from there and alum-pipe and/or bondo overlays to spread-load, allowing much higher "bang on chain-bar" before another pole-snap! Also figured out how to do it so that I keep its extendability, initial fix was going to ditch that / leave it fixed-length and palms are a big thing around here so that woulda sucked
So yeah have my hands-full ^ w/ repairs, doing my best not to dote on repairs a moment-longer than my day's allowing (can be addictive, I've been known to be outside spraying carb-spray @2am under porch-light
) Confident I'll have the 355t limiters fully-out and the saw "properly tuned' (probably a bit fat, to be safe in-case my ears are wrong) and get a tank or so through it tonight testing-out how it pushes a 16" and it'll be done tonight, the Tanaka should be in-service again by the end of next week, and the pole-saw by the end of the month (w/ pole-saw, 12"/14" and 16" climb-saws, will be in a good spot
Paid next-to-nothing for all my gear (except the 355t, that was MSRP but it's worth so much more I still feel it's "a steal" at $350!!)
[edited- Tanaka's back in-action! Crude plate is 'floating' in-between clutch-cover & bar but it gives plenty of bite on bar and tensioner works just fine, so I put the used-once 14" Echo setup on it and he's basically good -- ttthink I'll be going-back and putting some heat-tape between muff//clutch once I find a good product for that..
355t is fully tuned it was maybe 1/2 turn-out/CCW for L, and 3/4 for H (CCW), for 'optimal' of my new / 2nd-tank 355t running on ~45:1 by this point (started 40:1 motomix, keep adding neat 50:1 moto or echo mix so it'll "transition" to a 50:1 over some tankfuls, the tankfuls I'll be 'babying it' / keeping the tach 'semi-permanently' attached to....started-out as a tuning thing but I like that it keeps total-hours-logged on it, kinda neat to have an hours-counter for my fave [by leaps&bounds] saw!!
All that's left is the pole-saw....it's gonna have to be some aluminum, lengthwise-cut reinforcements if I want ~2' of ridigidity to mate their lil bar-couplers to so I know I can be 'rough' with it w/o worry!]