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What to do with a ms250

sefh3

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I know it's a factory H adjustable carb for the 025/250. Other adjustables may have existed. Many came with fixed H jet carbs.

It's like the 029/039 of small saws. Pretty darn good, but get a bad rap.

Most of the bad rap is because folks get on forums and complain that you can't port these saws or grind half of the cylinder off like you can on "Pro" series saws. These saws were built and designed for the average homeowner. They are not the fastest, lightest and not many modifications are available. I like these saws and they bring in good money. I have built at least 40 of the 290 series and a few dozen of the 250 series and were sold to homeowners that cut firewood to heat their homes. They are not being paid to drop the trees.
 

David Young

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I actually think the 025/250 is impressive for the weight, I had one that I muffler modded and put an adjustable carb on ran pretty nice. I never messed with the ignition I bet it would have helped.

I think the port timing in them is decent just need some compression like Al said and improve the flow through them.

I personally feel the 290 is a pig in comparison my just my opinion
 

Big_6

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All that power after letting it breathe? What's the no load rpm after the mm? Like!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

jake wells

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factory settings is 14,000 with bar and chain and the saw makes 3hp at 10,000 rpm. the muffler is large can with a tiny hole to breath out of and the plate is louvered in the front with tiny slits.
drilling out the outlet and opening up the front helps on power considerably but i don't have tach.

if you split the muffler and remove the baffle thingy and enlarge the outlet hole that will improve gains also some of these saws the muffler will come apart and others will not.
 

Brian Simonseth

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I've decided I'm not going to grind on this saw. Just going to assemble it as cheaply as possible change the carb and muffler mod.


I've have one I grinded on and one I didn't but both have 215 and MM. there isn't much differences but there is a difference :)

PS: About the chain I have both 3/8LP and .325 IMO I like .325 a little better
 

Wood Doctor

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Customer just asked me to restore a Stihl 025 that had not been run in at least five years. Fuel was black. Chain was dull and installed backwards on the bar. Clutch drum was missing the needle bearing cage, E-clip, and washer. Lord knows where those went. By some miracle, it had good compression.

I replaced the missing parts, flushed out the old fuel, added new fuel, sharpened chain, cleaned up the whole saw. Guess what? It started on the fourth pull after three on choke. Saw runs like the day it was bought and cuts like a bandit. Now it even looks new. Assuming he won't pay the $40 restoration bill, what should I offer him for it?
 

drf256

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They usually bring around $150-200 clean on eBay.
 

Wood Doctor

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I sold an 025 last year for $150 to a friend who had trouble with a Poulan Pro that he bought at Wally World. I reconditioned the 025 and he was in 7th heaven. I offered to repair the Poulan for free and he said, "No way. After what I went through with that piece of junk, I wouldn't give it to a dog."
 

czar800

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image.jpeg Kids are all in bed now I'm working on this saw a little bit tonight. Got some of the parts I need, just waiting on a few things.
I decided to try and plastic epoxy the top cover/handle bar. Time will tell... 60 seconds really.


image.jpeg
 

Terry Syd

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In repairs like that I like to use a bit of fiber glass cloth to help give it some strength and resistance to cracking. I clean and roughen the area, lay a bit of GB Weld down, next the fiber glass cloth and then rub more GB Weld into the cloth.
 

Wood Doctor

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Heck, if nothing else, this thread has inspired me to rejuvenate two Stihl 025 saws that showed up today at the shop. Both owners tried to fix them with lousy electrical connections, the wrong spark plugs, loose carb nuts, missing clutch bearings, damaged chain clutch covers, and one guy mounted the chain onto the bar backwards. I could add more to this list. Frankly, I've never seen such a mess for quite some time.

Both saws now run flawlessly today.
 

Chainganger

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I bought an 025 years ago, ran it with lawn boy oil, and now cleaned muffler screen and opened up the slits on muffler with a dremel cut off wheel and it runs great, I have not even changed out the fuel line or filter. This saw does not owe me a dime and it keeps on running. I know it is not a pro saw, but I learned long ago not to try to fix something that is not broken!
 

idiotwithasaw

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factory settings is 14,000 with bar and chain and the saw makes 3hp at 10,000 rpm. the muffler is large can with a tiny hole to breath out of and the plate is louvered in the front with tiny slits.
drilling out the outlet and opening up the front helps on power considerably but i don't have tach.

if you split the muffler and remove the baffle thingy and enlarge the outlet hole that will improve gains also some of these saws the muffler will come apart and others will not.
How's that ms250 u took home from here working for ya. Or can u not pull yourself away from the husky 350. Lol
 
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