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What oil is best? and what ratio?

Loony661

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Another interesting thing would be to find what the oils flash point is. Weather high or low. I can't help but think flash point plays a part with how well they oil the internals without producing carbon.
My thoughts are that when the oils is mixed heavy enough, it becomes too much to burn and actually washes the internals of the combustion chamber because it stays in liquid form - possibly one of the reasons some guys experience squeaky clean internals yet also have a gummy muffler..
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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My thoughts are that when the oils is mixed heavy enough, it becomes too much to burn and actually washes the internals of the combustion chamber because it stays in liquid form - possibly one of the reasons some guys experience squeaky clean internals yet also have a gummy muffler..
I could see that.
 

Mastermind

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I do believe that it was the dino oil that killed the 3120. No ring of death...just a smooth transition from bore to squish band. Ring end gap is consistent at .021" top and bottom. Carbon buildup on top of the piston, and on the squish band above the exhaust port left nearly no squish clearance. It looks to me like the carbon migrated down the front edge of the piston, and behind the top ring....forcing the ring out into the cylinder wall with enough force to begin taking off the plating.


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I do believe that it was the dino oil that killed the 3120. No ring of death...just a smooth transition from bore to squish band. Ring end gap is consistent at .021" top and bottom. Carbon buildup on top of the piston, and on the squish band above the exhaust port left nearly no squish clearance. It looks to me like the carbon migrated down the front edge of the piston, and behind the top ring....forcing the ring out into the cylinder wall with enough force to begin taking off the plating.


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So what's your feelings on more oil Randy? @rogue60 has had very good results with 25:1 dino. Not stihl oil, not 3120, not milling tho.
 

Squareground3691

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I do believe that it was the dino oil that killed the 3120. No ring of death...just a smooth transition from bore to squish band. Ring end gap is consistent at .021" top and bottom. Carbon buildup on top of the piston, and on the squish band above the exhaust port left nearly no squish clearance. It looks to me like the carbon migrated down the front edge of the piston, and behind the top ring....forcing the ring out into the cylinder wall with enough force to begin taking off the plating.


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Carbon assassination !!
 

Mastermind

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So what's your feelings on more oil Randy? @rogue60 has had very good results with 25:1 dino. Not stihl oil, not 3120, not milling tho.
I wish I had a good answer Adam.....but I never use dino oil. So I have no experience with it.

I do have some thoughts on what oil I would use when milling with a 120cc non-autotune type saw though. Belray H1R at either 25:1 or 32:1.

The 3120XP doesn't have an adjustable carb from the factory....and in my experience, this saw runs extremely rich in stock form. I believe the Stihl dino oil....at 32:1 in a saw that was probably running far too rich and never fully cleaning up.....while experiencing a *s-wordload of heat from milling was a recipe for disaster.
 

Kiwioilboiler

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I wish I had a good answer Adam.....but I never use dino oil. So I have no experience with it.

I do have some thoughts on what oil I would use when milling with a 120cc non-autotune type saw though. Belray H1R at either 25:1 or 32:1.

The 3120XP doesn't have an adjustable carb from the factory....and in my experience, this saw runs extremely rich in stock form. I believe the Stihl dino oil....at 32:1 in a saw that was probably running far too rich and never fully cleaning up.....while experiencing a *s-wordload of heat from milling was a recipe for disaster.
See, people can talk about oil without calling each other dicks.
 

Stump Shot

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If you need someone to call you a dick, I can page @dall
If you're gonna do that might as well get some good usage and have him give the dik at Stihl that thought up destructive oil to sell more saws repeated sack kicks for a week or so. Prolly find that guy driving on the autobahn, he'll be the one in the gold plated Mercedes.
 

Czed

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I do believe that it was the dino oil that killed the 3120. No ring of death...just a smooth transition from bore to squish band. Ring end gap is consistent at .021" top and bottom. Carbon buildup on top of the piston, and on the squish band above the exhaust port left nearly no squish clearance. It looks to me like the carbon migrated down the front edge of the piston, and behind the top ring....forcing the ring out into the cylinder wall with enough force to begin taking off the plating.


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Well *s-word I actually had good luck with orange bottle
I never milled with a fixed jet carb though.
 

PissRev

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Good morning, gents. My name is Chris. Long time lurker but felt it was time to finally register on the forum. The 3120 above is mine. I had originally planned on having work done to it eventually but once it started acting funny, I figured I might as well call it quits on that big tree I was working on because I didn't want to damage the saw and get ahold of randy to see what was needed from me to get the ball rolling. Randy was nice enough to pencil me into his schedule awhile back so I sent him my saw to make it run like a 3120xp should. When he asked what oil I use after opening my saw up and told me that particular oil is junk, I instantly knew I should have ran better oil. I will now run the oil he recommends from here on out when i get the saw back. I'm a Husky guy through and through and the only reason I used the orange bottle Stihl oil is because the local saw shop carries it in bulk and its half the price of the synthetic stuff. I always thought that because I kind of baby the saw and don't abuse it, that particular would be fine. Seeing this kind of wear in a saw that really doesnt have that many hours on it makes me think the oil is the culprit and i really should have spent a little extra on a high quality oil. I bought the saw brand new , took my time breaking it in and always mixed my fuel rich. During cuts, I'd always stop atleast twice for a minute or 2 and let the saw idle and cool down then continue on with the cut. I never let it run out of fuel either. Everything I thought I could do that was overly cautious to prolong the life of the saw and it still started eating itself.
Welcome to OPEforum!
 

dall

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If you need someone to call you a dick, I can page @dall
Lol I think they are mostly the other way
Dickless lol
If you're gonna do that might as well get some good usage and have him give the dik at Stihl that thought up destructive oil to sell more saws repeated sack kicks for a week or so. Prolly find that guy driving on the autobahn, he'll be the one in the gold plated Mercedes.
Lol biased lol
 

bertfixessome

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I do believe that it was the dino oil that killed the 3120. No ring of death...just a smooth transition from bore to squish band. Ring end gap is consistent at .021" top and bottom. Carbon buildup on top of the piston, and on the squish band above the exhaust port left nearly no squish clearance. It looks to me like the carbon migrated down the front edge of the piston, and behind the top ring....forcing the ring out into the cylinder wall with enough force to begin taking off the plating.

Pistons seal against the bore because the charge gets behind the ring and pushes it against the bore
However Asians of carbon can break away and get stuck between the piston , the piston ring and the bore gouging the surface .
\
Build ups like that are either too much oil or labouring the the engine so throttle is wide open but engine is running well below full speed .
Or some times both .
 
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