What does the carbon on the piston look like with 2r/r2 , , in your equipment Ben? When I used it the crown had a softer dry carbon and a dry muffler throughoutIts "2R"!
But there is a right way for an engine to operate the way it was designed to operate. A 2t engine isnt designed to run perfectly clean and wet and produce the hp it was designed to? I agree its a choice but the right choice? I guess it depends on what one is looking for?No one is right ,personal preference thing .
Sounds about right. Maybe theres a happy mediumYou can tell when there is too much because the 2nd and 3rd cut in a row will get progressively slower. While the cooler (or better said proper temp) running saw will produce not only faster times but also those times will be consistent and not slow down. I've seen this time and time again in my various tests.
You can also tell when the saw is indeed too cool because the same thing happens on times but the saw also seems to struggle progressively the more cuts in a row you do. ...seen this happen when there is too much oil.
So I think heat can go both ways. Too much or Too little.
That would depend on how close to the edge I run it. 2R in general is very clean.What does the carbon on the piston look like with 2r/r2 , , in your equipment Ben? When I used it the crown had a softer dry carbon and a dry muffler throughout
A clean piston and wet exhaust is power left on the table. This is only questioned in the chainsaw world..Im seeing that alota folks r thinking that a perfectly clean piston , wet, and a cooler running 2t engine is right vs a piston with carbon, dry combustion area, with alil warmer engine? Whos right?
I agreeA clean piston and wet exhaust is power left on the table. This is only questioned in the chainsaw world..
Yes that's close just a little thicker carbon and a little drier. I probably tend to jet and tune a bit sharp. Actually really close to the edge on many things saws included. If I got a 125 I want all its got. My last motor that lost a rod bearing had probably .030+ of carbon on the top of the piston. Transfer wash was very noticeable and intake area was pretty open and clean with a hint of tan.Here is a Stihl MS260 of mine ran on Motul 800. Yours about like this?View attachment 28932
Dang tease!!!Took apart my 562xp tonight to do a base gasket delete. This saw has ran K2 at 32:1 since new and has been a flawless saw for me. I lost track of how many gallons of fuel I have ran through it, but I know I have cut 60 full cord or 3 log truck loads of fire wood with it, including one load that required nearly every round to be noodled in half in order to move them to the splitter. I ran mostly an 18" bar, but also a 24" full comp quit often.
Here is the head. Camera died so I will take/post the other pics tommorow.View attachment 28967
But there is a right way for an engine to operate the way it was designed to operate. A 2t engine isnt designed to run perfectly clean and wet and produce the hp it was designed to? I agree its a choice but the right choice? I guess it depends on what one is looking for?
Clean ring grooves are absolutely important for long term wear. No doubt about it.One thing that's really important and hard to see is how the oil works for keeping the rings and their grooves free and clean. Who gives a rat's patoot about a wet piston crown? M'self, I like to see piston crown with a nice light coating of beige after a serious workout. Saws sure seem to like that, as do polesaw & brushcutters. (Stock engines, 50:1 full syn., 89 octane E-10)
Some experts say that extra oil in the mix has the effect of reducing the effective octane #. That can't be good. Extra POM definitely not good.